• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Anyone have ceramic brake pads? Any experience with Traild ceramic pads?

Did you purchase your brake pads from Bajaron? If you did, did you read the instructions that should have come with the pads? Did you purchase EBC rotors with the pads, or are you reusing the OEM rotors? If you purchased the brake pads from Ron and did not receive three pages of instructions, then I suggest you give his shop a call and they can probably email them to you.

Regarding using a single jack stand with a wood block, the block MUST be long enough to bear the weight of the two shock mount flanges that are welded to the swing arm and protrude downward beneath the swing arm.
 
I do have new EBC rotors for the fronts as well as pads. I have actually talked to Ron, the man himself, on the phone and he was a great resource and help!!

I do have a block long enough to catch both flanges. However, my jack stand has the v shaped top and is not flat. So I am working on figuring out the safest, most secure, way.
 
Revjames said:
I do have new EBC rotors for the fronts as well as pads. I have actually talked to Ron, the man himself, on the phone and he was a great resource and help!!

I do have a block long enough to catch both flanges. However, my jack stand has the v shaped top and is not flat. So I am working on figuring out the safest, most secure, way.
Click to expand...
As Ron may have mentioned to you, beveling the leading edge and slotting the pads is optional. I considered that if he said they were optional steps, then he has much more experience than I, so I did them. Starting with a new hacksaw blade makes it fast work, and the beveling was a breeze with a file.
 
Got the brakes all done, and I followed Baja Ron’s bedding procedure of 60mph-20mph quickly with hard braking a few times, followed by several minutes of riding to allow them to cool down to normal operating temperature. All in all, it wasn’t too bad. But working on the rear brakes laying on the ground was a pain, especially with me being a big guy.
I do still have a little concern about that right front caliper (the one that was metal to metal on the old rotors) and apparently with a sticky piston. When I got home, I checked rotor temperatures with the infrared thermometer and the right side was about 9 degrees warmer than the left. Not a big deal I don’t think, but enough that I will be keeping an eye on the right front brakes particularly.

Thanks again all for the insight and input!
 
Revjames said:
Got the brakes all done, and I followed Baja Ron’s bedding procedure of 60mph-20mph quickly with hard braking a few times, followed by several minutes of riding to allow them to cool down to normal operating temperature. All in all, it wasn’t too bad. But working on the rear brakes laying on the ground was a pain, especially with me being a big guy.
I do still have a little concern about that right front caliper (the one that was metal to metal on the old rotors) and apparently with a sticky piston. When I got home, I checked rotor temperatures with the infrared thermometer and the right side was about 9 degrees warmer than the left. Not a big deal I don’t think, but enough that I will be keeping an eye on the right front brakes particularly.

Thanks again all for the insight and input!
Click to expand...
If it makes you feel better, you could take that one back off and take the pads back out and carefully put something in there like a piece of wood so you don't pop a piston out all the way and exercise the cylinders and clean them well and pump them in and out a few times to make sure you don't have any crud in there hanging it up!
 
Mikey said:
If it makes you feel better, you could take that one back off and take the pads back out and carefully put something in there like a piece of wood so you don't pop a piston out all the way and exercise the cylinders and clean them well and pump them in and out a few times to make sure you don't have any crud in there hanging it up!
Click to expand...
Yeah I am considering that Mikey. I did do that quite a bit when I serviced the fronts.
 
So it’s been a few weeks and a few hundred miles since the brake work. I did put on new EBC rotors and pads when I did the work. Today, I decided to jack up that right front that had the problem piston before, just to spin the wheel by hand. I noticed there is one section that is tighter/harder to spin for a bit. I can still spin the wheel, but it definitely takes more effort in that one spot. Any ideas or thoughts?
 
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