Woodaddict
Well-known member
You can disconnect the plug somewhere. Probably hidden near the pump
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2014 RT with intermittent buzzing noise - any ideas on what it might be?
- Thread starter Flying V
- Start date
I don't believe that you can 'turn the compressor off on the dashboard' at all... You can adjust the 'height' up or down a little via the 'Hard/Soft' switch on the dash maybe (but then as soon as you start riding again, the automatic height setting part of the ACS will re-set the pressure to maintain the height setting loaded by BUDS, so doing that's pretty pointless at the best of times, and it won't stop the compressor anyway! 
) You certainly can't turn the compressor off via anything on the dash on my 2013 RT Ltd, nor could you on any of the 2014 Oz spec Spyders with ACS that I've seen/worked on either, and there's been quite a few of them over the years. 
You could try unplugging the compressor, IF you can get in there to do that, but you might then end up with suspension faults that restrict your ability to ride the Spyder, OR, if you're game, you might simply try adding saayyy, 20 mls or so of a 'Slime' type liquid puncture sealant to the air bag via the Schraeder valve inlet under the seat (with the valve insert removed to add the Slime, then put it back in again before adding air.
) and add about 20 psi of air to the bag before going for a little bit of a ride to let the Slime seal any punctures /leaks that might be present. That 'Slime' thing has worked pretty well as a temporary air bag repair for me and for quite a few others that I'm aware of too, but it's not necessarily a 100% sure fire fix, nor is it necessarily permanent - altho if it does work for you, then you might as well just ride with it like that until it doesn't work any more... I know of a few Spyders that have now run something over 100,000 miles with a 'Slime Sealed Air bag' without any further ACS issues, so you might be lucky.
Good Luck!
) You certainly can't turn the compressor off via anything on the dash on my 2013 RT Ltd, nor could you on any of the 2014 Oz spec Spyders with ACS that I've seen/worked on either, and there's been quite a few of them over the years. You could try unplugging the compressor, IF you can get in there to do that, but you might then end up with suspension faults that restrict your ability to ride the Spyder, OR, if you're game, you might simply try adding saayyy, 20 mls or so of a 'Slime' type liquid puncture sealant to the air bag via the Schraeder valve inlet under the seat (with the valve insert removed to add the Slime, then put it back in again before adding air.
) and add about 20 psi of air to the bag before going for a little bit of a ride to let the Slime seal any punctures /leaks that might be present. That 'Slime' thing has worked pretty well as a temporary air bag repair for me and for quite a few others that I'm aware of too, but it's not necessarily a 100% sure fire fix, nor is it necessarily permanent - altho if it does work for you, then you might as well just ride with it like that until it doesn't work any more... I know of a few Spyders that have now run something over 100,000 miles with a 'Slime Sealed Air bag' without any further ACS issues, so you might be lucky. Good Luck!
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
No, you can't turn it off at the dashboard. Don't know where they got that. You can tun it off in BUDS. Without BUDS, go into your left side fuse box - left side as you are sitting on the bike - and pull Relay R4 - suspension relay. See Pic. Easier to get to than the air pump plug. To completely disable the system, also pull off the right side panels, find the vent valve, and just unplug it. But if you plan on repairing the system back to normal, that is not required.
In the mean time remember, your system doesn't hold air. It doesn't necessarily have to be the airbag, it can also be the check valve on the outlet of the air pump, or the swivel elbow fitting at the vent valve. Many folks have just re-routed the air line tubing, from the air bag directly to the Schrader valve under the seat, and did away with the air pump entirely. Then the only place for leakage would then be the air bag. Everything else is eliminated. Yeah, it's a pain to work in there and do all of that.
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Employees at the authorized dealer East TN ATV in Elizabethton, TN told me that I could turn the compressor off on the dash. I researched and found no way to do that.
Do I need to remove the guard under the seat (4 bolts) to add slime? Will slime damage the compressor? Am I safe for the 30 minutes ride to the dealer or hour 20 minutes to BajaRon?
Thanks, I plan/hope to get some knowledgeable shop that I can get in to repair it. I’ll try to pull the fuse until I can get a repair done. I appreciate your advice very much.
Do I need to remove the guard under the seat (4 bolts) to add slime? Will slime damage the compressor? Am I safe for the 30 minutes ride to the dealer or hour 20 minutes to BajaRon?
Thanks, I plan/hope to get some knowledgeable shop that I can get in to repair it. I’ll try to pull the fuse until I can get a repair done. I appreciate your advice very much.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
If you want to Slime the airbag, that’s fine. But, just get in there so that you are adding directly to the bag and not to the Schrader valve. If it is the bag, the leak is most likely around the base of it where all the little stones congregate and wear a hole. Just know that there are other places for an air leak to occur. Some folks do a soapy water test first. No, it’s not the easiest thing to work on.
It’s perfectly safe to ride without air. The only spring support for the rear suspension will be the coil spring. Thus, over some bumps you could bottom out the shock onto the bump stop. Hard on the lower shock bolt if you make it a long term habit. Just go easy on it.
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If I remove the fuse does that affect anything else on the bike other than the compressor?
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Not the fuse, the relay. The relay starts and stops the compressor. It doesn’t feed anything else. It’s the same as unplugging the compressor, just easier to get to. You may or may not get a suspension warning light. But, that’s just a light. No control functions. And realistically, surprised you hadn’t already got it once in a while.
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Many thanks to Peter, Snowbelt, BajaRon, and others who chimed in to help me with this suspension issue. I apparently have a ruptured suspension air bag or some other leak. I was able to pull the F4 fuse as recommended by you folks and that stopped the compressor from running until I can get an appointment to get it repaired. Hopefully as soon as possible. God bless you all. What a wonderful bunch of Spyder people.
Mikey
Well-known member
Like Snowbelt said the first thing you got to do is shut the compressor down, by ether disconnecting the pump or dump valve, then if I were you, you got to see where the air is going and that's going to take having to have air in the system and hitting it with soapy water!!! You have no idea if it's the bag, dump valve, airline, it could one or all of them, without soap and water your wasting your money, you'll know where to take your fight! The fix for this problem can be cheap by making your system a manual fill, but you have to have a good bag to do that. If you want it back to stock which if it was me, I would not waste the time because most likely you may be doing again in the future, will cost you a chunk of cash. A lot of us have been here and done the manual fill fix! Oh, if I were you if that shop told you, you could shut it off at the dash, I would take it to Ron's if you don't want to do the work, near as I know there is no way to shut it down at the dash! So, shut the pump off, get a friend to keep air in the system with a hose, and find where your air is going, then get back to us! If you can turn a wrench, we can talk you thru it!
Mikey
Well-known member
Now hit it with the air, soap and water, and find the leak! You don't want to put any more than 90 lbs. in the system!! So if you have to set your air at like 30 psi and have someone force feed it, if you're blowing that much air out, it shouldn't take too much to find it!! If it's the bag, they usually leak around the bottom.
BajaRon
Well-known member
If the air is escaping that quickly, I'd say the hole may be too much for Slime to correct. Pulling the relay was a very good move. You'll burn up that new compressor in short order running constantly. You'll probably get a bit rougher ride with the air bag collapsed. But it should not be too bad if you're not riding 2-up.
A new bag is around $300.00 just for the part. It could be a bad line or other component. But frankly, the bag is the most likely culprit. Still, it would be best to nail down the leak before throwing parts at the problem.
A new bag is around $300.00 just for the part. It could be a bad line or other component. But frankly, the bag is the most likely culprit. Still, it would be best to nail down the leak before throwing parts at the problem.
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