• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

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  1. P

    Heads up to UK f3 owners

    I agree with Peter but mean time you could fit blanking stickers on to the outside of the lenses similar to the ones used on cars when they go to the continent. Wait until it's dark and get close to a vertical surface and experiment with your hand to work out where that upward section of beem is...
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    Warped rotor?

    I'm not sure. I made the video to send to my dealer so it's just on my computer. I don't put videos or pictures on any host site. I've actually got three vids of two different Spyders with the same problem. One is a before showing the run-out on the dti and the second is after machining also...
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    2nd session of belt gymnastics

    How did you manage to get your belt to not ride the outside flange on your front sprocket?
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    Warped rotor?

    Would you come back when you've covered perhaps 12-15k miles and let us know how you're getting on? I'd be interested to know as would other folk, I'm sure. :thumbup:
  5. P

    Oil change - which way to undo the drain plugs?

    Looking at the end of your drain plugs, anti-clockwise to slacken, clockwise to tighten.
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    Bajaron bar installed - now I'm drifting!

    You need to separate out better handling from better road holding. Your new anti-roll bar is adding stiffness to the front suspension and, as you say, will make the ride harsher. Additionally it is causing the front outer suspension to carry more load during cornering. Because it's carrying more...
  7. P

    Torque axle vs Torque nut

    Tightening the axle head instead of the nut is fine. The drag of the axle within the hub is negligible. There's a whole thread on this topic somewhere, you might find it if you do a search
  8. P

    Rust dust

    Don't do that, it'll get even worse without any folk who really know stuff! :bowdown: :)
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    Rust dust

    That's a very good point which I forgot to mention. But it'll need to be done with a grinder. I tried centre punching a dot into the shaft, it's so hard the point of the punch flattened and left no mark on the shaft, similarly my scriber would not scratch it.
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    Rust dust

    I'm not too sure about the hardening, the sprocket is cast iron. Cast iron contains so much carbon it has free carbon within its structure. It certainly can be hardened. Have a look at this picture below, zoom in if necessary, it's just been machined and the crystal structure of the metal...
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    Rust dust

    Too much presumption! The shaft is indeed hardened steel and the sprocket is cast iron. See the pictures below for the wear on both. You can see the mating lines where both parts are worn together.
  12. P

    Rust dust

    70550 2292 is the part number for the bolt, unless it's been superseded. 70550 2134 is the part number for the latest front sprocket.
  13. P

    Bump Steer

    The Spyder does have bump steer because the steering tie rods are considerably longer than the suspension arms. Consequently, the arc of movement at the wheel end is not the same for each so there is some steering caused by suspension movement. However, good front wheel alignment is important...
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    Rust dust

    Yes but I think you'll find that the thread lock compound addition to the torque is negligible. I don't know the lubrication properties of the dried lock compound comparative to a wet compound so can't comment on that. The bolt is well up to withstanding the tension. If you look up tables for a...
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    Rust dust

    To the original poster... If your sprocket is only lightly worn, ie. after cleaning up is slips back onto the shaft nicely with little play then imho it's better to use it rather than fit a replacement. The reason is that the contact surface of the sprocket against the flange of the shaft is...
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    Rust dust

    The official line is that the bolt is one use only but if it hasn't been overtightened it can be used again. The original locking compound will be damaged so you'll need to replace that if you feel it's important. Most importantly you must torque the bolt to at least the updated torque...
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    Warped rotor?

    You will need new rotors but check out the hubs too or you may be in for new rotors again in the same mileage as you've already covered. Could become an expensive service item. Buy that DTI and check the rotor run-out after you've fitted the new rotors. Remember, 0.004" is maximum, that requires...
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    Front wheel bearings.

    There is no reference in the manual for the tightening torque for the large axle nut. I just pull them nice and tight without being crazy tight. The heating cooling of the parts; put the wheel bearing in the freezer for 30mins, and bring the alloy carrier up to 100°C - Boiling point... boil it...
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    Warped rotor?

    Contrary to popular belief, warped rotors don't normally cause a brake vibration because as the warp travels through the pads the brake fluid simply moves out of one caliper side across to the other caliper side so there is no gripping/releasing of the rotor. However, there is a tendency for the...
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    Front wheel bearings.

    When replacing the bearing you need to heat the hub and cool the bearing. The hub is aluminium alloy so a smear of lubricant on the outside of the bearing is in order before pressing it into place. If it's bone dry you risk the alloy picking up and fusing to the steel bearing outer before it's...
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