10.25 Screen Rebooting during ride; the Screen data is not updating; and Statistics data us incorrect - any Suggestions?

[herring]

While on a ride today, the screen started to repeatedly reboot. The information on the screen was frozen with none of the data updating (Time, gearing, speed, mileage, etc.). The bike ran normally with no other issues. Once I reached my destination, I restarted the RT and the display updated showing the correct data.

The statistic screen displayed the following (After restarting):

Duration 7.5 hours (Actual ride time was 1.5)​

Distance 288 miles (Should be close to 85)​

AVG Fuel Consumption 48 mpg (I wish!)​

The statistics were reset at the start of the ride.

Frequently, I have a Bluetooth fault when starting. Normally this can be fixed after restarting the RT.

I called my dealer and scheduled an appointment. The "over the phone" diagnosis is the battery or wiring (They will know more after looking at the vehicle).

Thoughts?

If this has been answered in another post, I apologize in advance. I did search but did not find any posts on the same situation.

2025 RT LTD
8400 miles
original battery

Thank you in advance.

 

[mecsw500]

First I'd make sure your battery terminals are good and tight and where the -ve battery cable attaches to the frame/engine also.

Do you keep your battery on a maintainer? A single really cold garage over a winter can kill a battery.

It points to a battery as my first thought. Batteries are seemingly far more problematic than the charging system or even the electrics as a whole.

A new Yuasa USA battery, charged fully and then fitted is going to be about the same price as the first hour of investigation at dealer hourly rates, so I'd gamble with a new battery. They'll probably fit one anyway. If you don't have a battery maintainer, get one and attach the harness tails to the battery when you install the new one.

 

[herring]

First I'd make sure your battery terminals are good and tight and where the -ve battery cable attaches to the frame/engine also.

Do you keep your battery on a maintainer? A single really cold garage over a winter can kill a battery.

It points to a battery as my first thought. Batteries are seemingly far more problematic than the charging system or even the electrics as a whole.

A new Yuasa USA battery, charged fully and then fitted is going to be about the same price as the first hour of investigation at dealer hourly rates, so I'd gamble with a new battery. They'll probably fit one anyway. If you don't have a battery maintainer, get one and attach the harness tails to the battery when you install the new one.

Thank you. Based on what I have read, the stock battery should be replaced. You recommend Yuasa as a replacement?

One source stated the following (This also suggests a battery as a potential problem area):

1. Instrument cluster/TFT display fault (hardware or firmware) - Most likely
   • Complete freeze of speed, RPM, gear, clock, and trip data.
   • Repeated rebooting while riding.
   • Corrupted ride statistics after recovery.
   • History of intermittent Bluetooth issues.
2. Intermittent power or ground issue - Still very possible.
   • A brief loss of power to the display could cause exactly this behavior while the engine continues to run because the engine control module has its own power management.
3. Battery/charging issue - Possible, but slightly less likely now.
   • A weak battery typically causes problems during starting. Since the issue occurred while you were already riding, I'd want the dealer to pay close attention to charging voltage and wiring, not just the battery itself.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thank you. Based on what I have read, the stock battery should be replaced. You recommend Yuasa as a replacement?

...

I'll second that Yuasa recommendation, just so long as it's made in the USA; that it has at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr capacity; and it been properly initialised (if it's a 'bottle filled' AGM battery, there's a specific process which is usually specified on the packaging and that I believe takes about an hour to do properly) and then charged with a proper 2 amp charger (not just on a battery tender) for AT LEAST 8 hours to ensure it's fully set up, charged, and ready to provide suitable power for many years to come!

Any lower capacity &/or lesser initialisation & charging time is likely to mean you'll probably be replacing that new battery too, much sooner than you really should need to!

Good Luck!

 

[mecsw500]

The Spyder, especially the later models, have lots of CanBus modules. These have a high current consumption.

If the battery voltage drops, actually not by a lot, various random bus modules appear to drop out.

If you replace the battery with a Yuasa USA battery, then charge it on the bench until fully charged, then put it on the bike, tighten the battery terminals good and proper with just the battery maintainer tail in place. These bikes like battery maintainers, not trickle chargers, to maintain a suitable charge level when not being driven. The parasitic draw on the battery is not insignificant. When you put the +ve then -ve cable on, you'll see a small spark from the parasitic draw.

If you are chasing an electrical fault, then in my experience you make sure the baseline components are operating problem free. You can chase your tail round and round only to find it was something basic all along, at $150 per hour!

The Yuasa battery to get is the Yuasa AGM battery, Yuasa YTX24HL (I'd not mess with the -BS version). Fully charge it before installing. As what Peter said.