1st Spring Start up

[Buckeye Bleau]

Both last year and this year there was a challenge getting my 2013 RT-L up and running.

I would try to start it just as I always do, but I have to crank it and crank it and crank it to get it to finally start.

I try to give it some throttle after it does not start, then I do it without, then with and without.

Finally, it would start. After this initial difficulty, it is usually fine and starts right away.

What is going on? Any advice from my learned and experienced friends here? I keep the tank filled with some Stabilizer in the tank in the winter and it is stored in a heated garage.

Joe

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I have a little trouble starting after a long cold night too! There is a wide open throttle starting sequence that might help but I can't remember exactly how to do it other than you hold the throttle wide open and hit the starter.

 

[Chupaca]

TWO..Throttle wide open....

:agree: Hold the throttle wide open and crank for 10 seconds or so. Then shut it down and start normally. Does not always work the first time but should cleanout the combustion champer so it can load up with fresh fuel mixture...:thumbup:

 

[quasi]

:agree: Hold the throttle wide open and crank for 10 seconds or so. Then shut it down and start normally. Does not always work the first time but should cleanout the combustion champer so it can load up with fresh fuel mixture...:thumbup:

yeah, mine started right up then died. wouldn't start, just cranked. held the throttle wide open and it fired up. been fine ever since.

 

[Buckeye Bleau]

All very good suggestions, thank you.

I am curious as to what may be the cause of this?
Bad / old fuel in lines?
Vapor lock from evaporated fuel?
Gremlins taking up residence that need to be vacated?

Joe

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Do you have a Gremlin Bell? If not then I’m going with gremlins as the cause of your issues.

 

[Bfromla]

All very good suggestions, thank you.

I am curious as to what may be the cause of this?
Bad / old fuel in lines?
Vapor lock from evaporated fuel?
Gremlins taking up residence that need to be vacated?

Joe

:lecturef_smilie:
It's a machine made to be used, not sitting around. So all the above gather together & any one at anytime or any combination there-in while trying to get going again :banghead: plus too many fluids that need regular circulating & just general attention. Hard to practice some times but try to at least crank once every 2weeks, cranking is ok but actual use is better. No minimal mileage ,but just try.

 

[Buckeye Bleau]

:lecturef_smilie:
It's a machine made to be used, not sitting around. So all the above gather together & any one at anytime or any combination there-in while trying to get going again :banghead: plus too many fluids that need regular circulating & just general attention. Hard to practice some times but try to at least crank once every 2weeks, cranking is ok but actual use is better. No minimal mileage ,but just try.

All good ideas with great intent, however practically the entire month of December, our highs were only single digits. November was snow and salt on the roads, January did. Not know what it wanted to be and February is proving that we may need to go to Kentucky for the Ark. :banghead:

In short, maybe I can start it and run it, but no way could we Ryde the poor thing!

Joe

 

[Peter Aawen]

Back in the days I used to do this sort of stuff, we used to 'fog' engines before we shut them down for the winter.... basically getting all the insides covered with oil so that they don't collect condensate & start corroding/oxidising over the winter; and if you didn't do this the 'stale fuel' & 'condensate' mix would be very hard to ignite when next you tried to start them & the oil would be diluted with the condensate too - all together, it's just too much water, & not enough 'ignitable liquids' left in there until you've cranked up a bunch of fresh stuff!! Does anyone do that fogging thing these days?

Anyhoo, fogging isn't meant to be all that good for direct injection engines (it clags up the sensors with a layer of oil - oil that is protective everywhere else, but it's a coating that seals the important bits of sensors away from what they are meant to be sensing, making things hard to start & making them run like a sick dog until it's all burnt off!) but the same thing can be achieved by starting the engine & running it up to operating temp & burning off any water or condensate that has collected, & burning any water contaminants out of the oil &/or fuel, effectively by getting it all up to 'hot metal' temps throughout - BUT IT MUST REACH OPERATING TEMP OR IT IS WORSE THAN NOT STARTING IT AT ALL!! And to idle it long enough to reach operating temp takes a fair while, not just a few minutes, more like 20! :shocked:

Or you can try adding fuel stabiliser & keeping your Spyder in/under controlled (dry) conditions, but it won't necessarily stop any condensate from ending up in your oil etc! Which might not be a good thing.... :sour: