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2010 to 2011 RT shock upgrade
- Thread starter budro
- Start date
memphisdan
New member
I made this change back in April, since I have covered about 9,000 miles, and yes it was worth it. I changed the shock body, adjusters and bolts, the cost was about $200. And was easy to do, took about two hours.
I noticed the biggest change in crosswinds. Rode through Oklahoma and I had 50 mph cross winds while it was not fun I was able to maintain 70-75 mph. I was traveling with a friend riding GW 1800 and he commented he was having a problem staying in his lane but the Spyder appeared to be tracking straight.
Yes for me this was easy, was inexpensive and helped.
:thumbup:
I noticed the biggest change in crosswinds. Rode through Oklahoma and I had 50 mph cross winds while it was not fun I was able to maintain 70-75 mph. I was traveling with a friend riding GW 1800 and he commented he was having a problem staying in his lane but the Spyder appeared to be tracking straight.
Yes for me this was easy, was inexpensive and helped.
:thumbup:
bikeguy
New member
I changed mine to 2011 shocks in May. I don't have the parts bill in front of me but it was about $225.00 if I remember correctly. Not a bad job at all once I got a spring compressor. I wound up ordering one from Northern Tool. None of the local stores had anything that would work.
The RT corners flatter with less body roll than with the stock shocks and it is also better in crosswinds. I had to play with the pre-load and the rear air pressure to get it to feel right. I wound up with the front shocks set on position 4 and the rear air pressure at 35 PSI riding solo and 45 PSI two-up. In my opinion, it's worth the money but, if money was no object, I'd go with Works Performance or Elkas. I would love to be able to dial in just a little less compression damping and a little more rebound damping and see if that wouldn't improve both the ride and the handling.
Cotton
The RT corners flatter with less body roll than with the stock shocks and it is also better in crosswinds. I had to play with the pre-load and the rear air pressure to get it to feel right. I wound up with the front shocks set on position 4 and the rear air pressure at 35 PSI riding solo and 45 PSI two-up. In my opinion, it's worth the money but, if money was no object, I'd go with Works Performance or Elkas. I would love to be able to dial in just a little less compression damping and a little more rebound damping and see if that wouldn't improve both the ride and the handling.
Cotton
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