stinkbomb1
New member
Can you trickle-charge a 2011 RT Limited Battery through the 12 Volt adapter in the rear cargo trunk?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
2011 RT Limited - Charging Battery
- Thread starter stinkbomb1
- Start date
jtoro1
Member
Yes if it is hot all the time if not all you have to do is switch the fuse to another position so it is on all the time
ottawa-rider
Member
With a 2011 RT, the battery is under the seat and there are two terminals to connect a charger, you must use alligator clips, the instructions are in the manual.
Use Pig Tail
Ann has an 2013 ST with the battery just behind the frunk. I own an Honda ST1300. I hooked up a fused pigtails for both. They are generally long enough you can route them so you can get to them without pulling things off. A pig tail kept under the seat might work, you'll have to experiment with that space though. Unlocking the seat is no big deal.
Initially, we charged the Spyder though the terminals at the access panel like the owners manual stated, but we had a regulator failure and I wanted to go strait to the battery following that episode.
Ann has an 2013 ST with the battery just behind the frunk. I own an Honda ST1300. I hooked up a fused pigtails for both. They are generally long enough you can route them so you can get to them without pulling things off. A pig tail kept under the seat might work, you'll have to experiment with that space though. Unlocking the seat is no big deal.
Initially, we charged the Spyder though the terminals at the access panel like the owners manual stated, but we had a regulator failure and I wanted to go strait to the battery following that episode.
billybovine
Active member
There is no fuse to move in a 2011 RT that makes the power outlet switched or unswitched. That is a feature of 2013 or later models.
The power outlet on a 2011 RT is always on so yes a battery maintainer can be plugged into it.
The power outlet on a 2011 RT is always on so yes a battery maintainer can be plugged into it.
GearHd
New member
I was referring to the poster above mine with the 13 ST. That was what the ^ was for.
billybovine
Active member
I was refering to post 2 who was referring to the OP whose question we are trying to answer.
Since Ann had a regulator failure I wanted to avoid using any part of the electrical system to run a maintenance charge. So I ran a fused (2.5 amp) pig tail with ring terminals strait to the battery. The shop uses pig tails with clips. I'm not saying you're wrong using the lighter plug, I'm just recommending a direct connection to the battery given Ann's failure. The pig tails are cheap.
A yes and no answer here. According to the electrical diagram in the service manual, charging through the booster post touches systems that are not closed off by the key switch in the off position. Because most circuits aren't complete when off they are protected. On the 2013 ST the accessory plug is switched, so that's out. By using the a direct connection to the battery the parts touched are the regulator, rectifier, and magneto/stator but are protected through the key switch because there's no completed circuit.
On the 2013 ST, at least Ann's, the break lights can still activate when the switch is off, so there are circuits that are on in the off position.
You're not wrong to charge according to the manual. I just recommend going strait to the battery as a belt and suspenders type of precaution. It's probably just my neurosis coming from the motorcycle community where you'll find they mostly go strait to the battery. It's also what my shop does for the Spyder.
Just my 2 cents.
billybovine
Active member
Look at the wiring diagram again. The jumpstart posts on a 2013 ST are directly connected to the battery. Are not disconnected by the key switch.
Attachments
spyderCodes
Member
Please don't use a "trickle charger"
Use a battery maintainer.
Use a battery maintainer.
Bob Denman
New member
Back to the O.P.'s question:
:welcome: YES!!! :thumbup:
It's amazing how folks will start discussing another model and year Spyder... :banghead:
:welcome: YES!!! :thumbup:
It's amazing how folks will start discussing another model and year Spyder... :banghead:
Look at the wiring diagram again. The jumpstart posts on a 2013 ST are directly connected to the battery. Are not disconnected by the key switch.
Hmm,, again yes and no. Let me count the connections to other systems before the battery from the diagram you provided:
1. To starter solenoid
2. LH fuse box
3. RH fuse box
4. voltage regulator/rectifier fuse
5 and regulator/rectifier
When switched off I wrote that the circuit was not closed thus they were protected. The battery should be the only closed circuit. Nothing I wrote was incorrect.
Directly on the battery these connections are bypassed. Your diagram is very good at demonstrating that and I thank you for the diagram it's much easier to read than the electrical diagram. It took me 30 minutes to see all that which you provided in 20 secs.
I stand by what I said. The manual says you can charge from that post, but I choose the go through a pig tail direct to the battery and recommend it. Going direct is easier, all I have to do is open up the frunk and plug into an ASE connector. Going to the posts requires removing the access panel, hooking up clips, then hooking to the ASE connector. Nothing wrong with going to the posts, but I prefer to go direct.
Also my local shop uses the direct method. When they repaired Ann's ST they asked if I had a pig tail installed for maintenance charging (took them three weeks).
This is an ease of access and paranoid, preference opinion based on loosing the rectifier once (a rather expensive fix). Belt and suspenders type of opinion as stated earlier. Again nothing wrong with going with the manual.
Similar threads
