I installed after market floor boards and a larger brake pedal with riser on my 2012 RT about 1500 miles ago. Recently I was slowing down from about 60mph to make a turn. When the brakes were applied, the pedal felt mushy or soft and it took longer than normal to stop. I pulled off on a side road and did a few hard stops and I felt that I had to put way too much pressure on the pedal to stop. When I got home, I checked the brake fluid and it looked fine. I depressed the brake pedal and saw that my brake pedal is hitting the floor board. My question is why the pedal is hitting the floor board now? I had room between the pedal and the board for 1500 miles. I took the bike to a dealership and was told my brake pressure was at 1000 psi and well within specs. The tech said the problem was my floor boards. I reinstalled the OEM brake pedal and went for a ride. The pedal does not contact the floor board but the brakes still feel mushy. Any ideas or suggestions?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
2012 RT experiencing mushy brakes
- Thread starter Hobie1
- Start date
Further to that, is the fluid level in the reservoir down even the slightest bit?? And how worn are your brake pads?? However, A/mkt floor boards & large pedals have been known to cause exactly this sort of issue, so maybe that is the cause of your initial problem, and maybe now you are left second guessing yourself about how it feels? I say that, cos the brakes on the pre-2013 Spyders (when they got the 15" wheels & Brembo Brakes all round!) were always a bit 'mushy' anyway, but do they usually stop you pretty well if they're in good condition.
The fact that it's been fine for a while and has only recently started doing this, despite the pressure being good, sorta suggests that it's a wear or low fluid issue.
Many Spyder Riders have discovered that their brake problems go away simply by adding a little bit more brake fluid to the reservoir, even if it does look like it's at the max fill mark! And are the caps facing the rear, with the 'V' in the rubber membrane thing facing the same way?? Both are seemingly minor, but can cause this sort of thing?!
Do you have a moisture tester?? Brake fluid can 'look' clean when it's first been contaminated with water &/or condensation, but once the moisture level gets up over about 1.5/2%, it really isn't likely going to work too well and the pedal tends to feel mushier and mushier the hotter the brakes get, possibly until you get no pedal at all!!
So maybe it 'looks' clean, but it's just not up to doing the job?? Or maybe it's none of those and we're all barking up the wrong tree. Have you checked to see if you've got a leak somewhere? Or could it be that one of the original flexible hoses has now deteriorated inside so much that it expands a little bit every time you put your foot on the pedal - enough to make for a spongier than normal pedal?? Maybe if it's not any of the usual suspects &/or any of the obvious things, then possibly it's time to take it to a brake specialist?
I topped off the brake fluid by filling it just to the bottom of the reservoir neck and made sure the caps were correctly aligned. Rode the bike through my neighborhood where there are stop signs on every corner. The brakes don’t seem to have any “bite” until the pedal is fully depressed. The brake lines that I can see look ok and there are no visible leaks. The pads look fine. The investigation continues…..
racoon
Well-known member
Looking "clean" does not mean the brake fluid is good.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means over time it absorbs moisture from the air. Water is more compressible than brake fluid, so brake functions degrade.
I don't have a copy of the 2012 Operator's Guide, but the 2011 guide says to replace the brake fluid every 20 000 km (12,000mi) or 2 years.
The Operators Guide for my 2024 Spyder says to replace the brake fluid every 2 years, regardless of mileage.
Your brake fluid is overdue to be replaced.
I would start with a complete flush of the brake system.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Although myy 2012 has always had mushy brakes since I bought it in 2015 with 8500 miles, they would get firm when fluid was changed every 2 years. That would last about a year, then start to ger mushy again until the 2 year mark. Now they are mushy no matter what. At 83,000 + is it time for a new master cylinder.? It still stops just fine, just a mushy feel in the brake pedal.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
If you apply firm pressure to the pedal, and it stays put and doesn’t slowly sink to the bottom of travel, then I wouldn’t blame the master cylinder just yet. Not sure if any of this below applies to your situation, but some info for you or whomever.
Smoak always points out the design issues with the non-Brembo systems every chance he gets, to make sure it sinks in to the DIY-er. Look at the front calipers. The bleed fitting is not at the high point of the caliper. The caliper must be unbolted, rotated towards the top of the hub, and temporarily refastened. Only then, can you be sure that all the air gets out. This is covered in the manual, he’s not making it up. Using speed bleeders or a vacuum rig also helps ensure no air gets back in during the bleeding or flushing process.
The VCM/ABS unit is almost impossible to get to. It’s so painful that bleeding/flushing from there often gets skipped. Over time, who knows what might be going on inside regarding the fluid quality and corrosion. Smoak replaces VCM units, as the cause of mushy brakes on the older machines, way more often than master cylinders. Actually, I can’t recall seeing a master cylinder replacement from him. Plenty of folks have gone more miles than you without needing a master cylinder replacement.
A thorough bleeding requires BUDS. Just a fluid flush doesn’t. But if there’s a chance that some air got back into the system at some point during those times, it may find a place to hide forever inside the VCM or calipers. Then you’ll always have that somewhat mushy feeling, but the brakes will work ok. You’ll need a full BUDS bleeding per the manual, to get it all out of there. If it’s bothering you, I’d start there first. And this is much less expensive and time consuming then changing out a master cylinder. The C1282 code tells you if you have a pressure vs pedal travel issue. As long as you are not getting the C1282 code, the system is operating within design parameters.
Last edited:
Similar threads
