Newer owner, the 2018 has 13,000 miles, I’ve put about 1000 miles on the RTL so far. The brakes have felt “spongy” from my first ride, I’m paddle shifting to let the motor slow the trike at every stop. Is this normal? The brakes do squeal a bit till they warm up, then no noise. I think that may be a separate topic… thought I’d reach out to the forum before I go the service route. Your responses are appreciated.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
2018 RTL Brakes feel 'spongy' - Is this normal?
- Thread starter Rusty71
- Start date
NOT NORMAL!
Get it looked at ASAP!
racoon
Well-known member
Definitely get it looked at.
Did you get any service records when you bought it?
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture from the air over time.
In the Maintenance Schedule section of my Operator's Guide it says the brake fluid should be changed every two years, regardless of the mileage.
Did you get any service records when you bought it?
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture from the air over time.
In the Maintenance Schedule section of my Operator's Guide it says the brake fluid should be changed every two years, regardless of the mileage.
JohnRtl
Member
Stupid question, but it caught me out a few times. Unable to see the brake pedal, and unable to feel it through my size 12, thick vibram soles, I stopped to take a look at where the pedal was in relation to my foot. I was pressing on the arm, rather than the pedal itself. A few practices getting foot on pedal, first time every time and the problem disappeared.
They never felt soft or as though there was too much travel - just that they were not slowing the Tryke fast very effectively.
I find that changing down increases the speed. It knocks it down a gear but IT increases the revs to match, giving the road speed a little boost.
I just use the brake and let it change down for me.
They never felt soft or as though there was too much travel - just that they were not slowing the Tryke fast very effectively.
I find that changing down increases the speed. It knocks it down a gear but IT increases the revs to match, giving the road speed a little boost.
I just use the brake and let it change down for me.
Snoking1127
Well-known member
Just a FYI: Sierra Cycle in Sierra Vista, AZ, one of the best in Arizona told we they do not try to flush the anti-loc brake module, just the rest fo the brake system. Stating the flushing the anti-loc brake module takes a very lot of brake fluid and is very problematic at best.
propbuildervash
New member
that's a bummer. for the cost of having the dealer do it i would expect the ABS unit to be flushed. I am led to believe it has its own bleeder but requires the BUDS to active the ABS system to bleed. I did my own fluid last week, brake fluid was 7 years old with 1700 miles, (just bought it) all three brake calipers took about 90 min with a helper to pump the brakes, used 80-90% of the larger bottle of Dot 4 fluid which cost maybe $12
Id consider it totally worth it do do that before going to the dealer if it were me. The job only needs a jack, a jack stand for safety, an 8mm wrench and a lug wrench, a 18 inch clear hose to go over the bleeder and a mason jar. The rear tire doesn't even need to come off, just the fronts.
Either way hope you get all fixed up OP.
I use the brakes only to stop, i don't downshift for braking as others have mentioned, i only downshift to pass.
mecsw500
Active member
From my experience the brakes should have a nice progressive but firm feel. Not extremely touchy like a 1990's Volvo, but certainly not soft or spongy. You should be able to easily bang on the brakes and get all three wheels to stop the thing on a dime under full control with the anti-lock and stability control doing its job. We did this very thing on the Can Am three wheel training course (I recommend this course to everyone regardless if you have some existing state license that covers riding a Spyder). You would be amazed at how quickly these things stop with a properly functioning braking system.
For that age and mileage a full system fluid replacement would be in order. For a dealer with a BUDS2 system, flushing the ABS system should not be that complicated. I've had it done on BMW and Triumph motorcycles as well as various cars and I don't suppose the Can Am procedure is theoretically very much different. I suspect the ABS module on the Spyder is at least a derivative of ABS modules for other motorcycles or cars, bought in from a suppliers, not BRP designed and manufactured. Dirty, gunky fluid with settled out particulates is not what I would want in my ABS module of all places.
A dealer should have the BUDS2 system, plus all the necessary equipment to change the entire fluid system, including the ABS unit. Who cares how much brake fluid costs, a pint of it from a name brand is probably no more expensive than 15 minutes of their labor charges. Now, whether or not their tech has the expertise or experience, that's another matter, in which case I wouldn't want them touching any part of my brake system.
If you are going to the expense of doing all that fluid changing, I would stick new brake pads in first, and then the fluid level won't overflow if you change the pads after changing and topping off the fluid. Pads first, fluid change second, ride and top off as needed, third.
If the brakes have been spongy and engine braking being used a lot to slow down, the existing pads may very well be glazed and well worth junking. EBC does a good set for the Spyder for a reasonable price.
For that age and mileage a full system fluid replacement would be in order. For a dealer with a BUDS2 system, flushing the ABS system should not be that complicated. I've had it done on BMW and Triumph motorcycles as well as various cars and I don't suppose the Can Am procedure is theoretically very much different. I suspect the ABS module on the Spyder is at least a derivative of ABS modules for other motorcycles or cars, bought in from a suppliers, not BRP designed and manufactured. Dirty, gunky fluid with settled out particulates is not what I would want in my ABS module of all places.
A dealer should have the BUDS2 system, plus all the necessary equipment to change the entire fluid system, including the ABS unit. Who cares how much brake fluid costs, a pint of it from a name brand is probably no more expensive than 15 minutes of their labor charges. Now, whether or not their tech has the expertise or experience, that's another matter, in which case I wouldn't want them touching any part of my brake system.
If you are going to the expense of doing all that fluid changing, I would stick new brake pads in first, and then the fluid level won't overflow if you change the pads after changing and topping off the fluid. Pads first, fluid change second, ride and top off as needed, third.
If the brakes have been spongy and engine braking being used a lot to slow down, the existing pads may very well be glazed and well worth junking. EBC does a good set for the Spyder for a reasonable price.
Similar threads
