Rangerrobb
New member
I have both VSS and ABS lights on dash. checked fuses, tail lights, battery and etc and all are fine but it won't start. Can anyone help?
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ABS Fault-won't start
- Thread starter Rangerrobb
- Start date
Those lights refer to braking & stability systems.... it could pay to check that the brake fluid master cylinders are full. The slightest of low levels in either master cylinder can trigger brake failures & 'No Go' situations; it's happened to others, & is often resolved by adding as little as 1/2 a teaspoonful of brake fluid to each in order to top them up & return everything to normal!! 
If the master cylinders are all good, then maybe check that all the sensors & leads to the wheels are in place, & the thin metal disks with notches in them that are mounted on the inside of each wheel/axle are all OK & undamaged. The sensors need to be in the correct position & EXACTLY the correct distance from the disk or you can get errors & failures leading to 'No Go'; & the leads to the sensors also need to be undamaged &/or un-kinked! Any work on/around those areas needs to be done carefully, & they can even be knocked out of kilter by road debris or not be reading correctly due to mud or dirt film on the sensors.
Good Luck :thumbup:
Ps: I've noticed that it rarely helps starting up a second thread asking about the same thing, it just spreads the answer around IF you actually get it at all, cos it also tends to annoy the people most likely to be in a position to help by making them think that you've ignored their suggestions entirely so they don't follow your progress or help further once the duplication becomes obvious - and it certainly makes searching on the subject a whole lot harder too, what with dribs & drabs of discussion all over the place. You might be better off deleting this thread entirely (I really won't mind) & posting your progress on the original thread you started, which if nothing else will be letting the people there know that you've actually tried their suggestions & have either succeeded, or that you need more/further help rather than starting entirely from scratch once again! :banghead:
If the master cylinders are all good, then maybe check that all the sensors & leads to the wheels are in place, & the thin metal disks with notches in them that are mounted on the inside of each wheel/axle are all OK & undamaged. The sensors need to be in the correct position & EXACTLY the correct distance from the disk or you can get errors & failures leading to 'No Go'; & the leads to the sensors also need to be undamaged &/or un-kinked! Any work on/around those areas needs to be done carefully, & they can even be knocked out of kilter by road debris or not be reading correctly due to mud or dirt film on the sensors.
Good Luck :thumbup:
Ps: I've noticed that it rarely helps starting up a second thread asking about the same thing, it just spreads the answer around IF you actually get it at all, cos it also tends to annoy the people most likely to be in a position to help by making them think that you've ignored their suggestions entirely so they don't follow your progress or help further once the duplication becomes obvious - and it certainly makes searching on the subject a whole lot harder too, what with dribs & drabs of discussion all over the place. You might be better off deleting this thread entirely (I really won't mind) & posting your progress on the original thread you started, which if nothing else will be letting the people there know that you've actually tried their suggestions & have either succeeded, or that you need more/further help rather than starting entirely from scratch once again! :banghead:
Last edited:
Ben Burped
New member
Good Advice
This was very good advice and a good reminder of how to handle a request for help.:riding:
Those lights refer to braking & stability systems.... it could pay to check that the brake fluid master cylinders are full. The slightest of low levels in either master cylinder can trigger brake failures & 'No Go' situations; it's happened to others, & is often resolved by adding as little as 1/2 a teaspoonful of brake fluid to each in order to top them up & return everything to normal!!
If the master cylinders are all good, then maybe check that all the sensors & leads to the wheels are in place, & the thin metal disks with notches in them that are mounted on the inside of each wheel/axle are all OK & undamaged. The sensors need to be in the correct position & EXACTLY the correct distance from the disk or you can get errors & failures leading to 'No Go'; & the leads to the sensors also need to be undamaged &/or un-kinked! Any work on/around those areas needs to be done carefully, & they can even be knocked out of kilter by road debris or not be reading correctly due to mud or dirt film on the sensors.
Good Luck :thumbup:
Ps: I've noticed that it rarely helps starting up a second thread asking about the same thing, it just spreads the answer around IF you actually get it at all, cos it also tends to annoy the people most likely to be in a position to help by making them think that you've ignored their suggestions entirely so they don't follow your progress or help further once the duplication becomes obvious - and it certainly makes searching on the subject a whole lot harder too, what with dribs & drabs of discussion all over the place. You might be better off deleting this thread entirely (I really won't mind) & posting your progress on the original thread you started, which if nothing else will be letting the people there know that you've actually tried their suggestions & have either succeeded, or that you need more/further help rather than starting entirely from scratch once again! :banghead:
This was very good advice and a good reminder of how to handle a request for help.:riding:
Chupaca
New member
Have to agree...
:agree: great advise and on the ps...well put..:thumbup:
Those lights refer to braking & stability systems.... it could pay to check that the brake fluid master cylinders are full. The slightest of low levels in either master cylinder can trigger brake failures & 'No Go' situations; it's happened to others, & is often resolved by adding as little as 1/2 a teaspoonful of brake fluid to each in order to top them up & return everything to normal!!
If the master cylinders are all good, then maybe check that all the sensors & leads to the wheels are in place, & the thin metal disks with notches in them that are mounted on the inside of each wheel/axle are all OK & undamaged. The sensors need to be in the correct position & EXACTLY the correct distance from the disk or you can get errors & failures leading to 'No Go'; & the leads to the sensors also need to be undamaged &/or un-kinked! Any work on/around those areas needs to be done carefully, & they can even be knocked out of kilter by road debris or not be reading correctly due to mud or dirt film on the sensors.
Good Luck :thumbup:
Ps: I've noticed that it rarely helps starting up a second thread asking about the same thing, it just spreads the answer around IF you actually get it at all, cos it also tends to annoy the people most likely to be in a position to help by making them think that you've ignored their suggestions entirely so they don't follow your progress or help further once the duplication becomes obvious - and it certainly makes searching on the subject a whole lot harder too, what with dribs & drabs of discussion all over the place. You might be better off deleting this thread entirely (I really won't mind) & posting your progress on the original thread you started, which if nothing else will be letting the people there know that you've actually tried their suggestions & have either succeeded, or that you need more/further help rather than starting entirely from scratch once again! :banghead:
:agree: great advise and on the ps...well put..:thumbup:
Spent a lot of time
troubleshooting ABS systems before I retired. It is actually a pretty simple system, but any issues can throw a code. The most common issue I had was a sensor not reading the ABS ring (slotted disc) and moving the sensor towards the ring even to point of the sensor lightly touching the ring would do the trick. If a sensor has been bumped and moved just a fraction it can and will lose it's reading from the ring. Once the sensor was properly positioned the wheel had to be rotated with ignition on (engine not running) or the vehicle driven to a speed of 7 mph so the system could detect the rotation and clear the code. The next issue was much less common and harder to find and that was an open circuit. Plug came loose, usually do to work being done and the plug forgotten or not plugged back in properly. The other cause for an open circuit would be a broken wire somewhere in the ABS harness. Even though I had a computer that would tell me if I had an open circuit I still had to track it down. Not always easy. I know this doesn't answer your question, but hopefully it will help find the issue. I was not allowed to splice a broken wire and had to replace the entire ABS harness both because of the safety issues and the fact these were new vehicles. It is my understanding that the VSS and ABS systems work together, but I suspect you will find the problem lies somewhere in the ABS system and probably has something to do with a wheel sensor. If it were mine I would make sure the wheel sensors and ring are free of any dirt or debris and the rings aren't damaged. Then I would make sure the sensors are close to the rings, even to the point of LIGHT contact. If it won't start I would raise a wheel off the ground and spin it as fast as I can with the ignition on so the computer can get a read on that sensor. I would do this with all the wheels and then see if that clears the code. Anything much more involved is going to take the dealers computer to get a read on what or where the issue lies.
troubleshooting ABS systems before I retired. It is actually a pretty simple system, but any issues can throw a code. The most common issue I had was a sensor not reading the ABS ring (slotted disc) and moving the sensor towards the ring even to point of the sensor lightly touching the ring would do the trick. If a sensor has been bumped and moved just a fraction it can and will lose it's reading from the ring. Once the sensor was properly positioned the wheel had to be rotated with ignition on (engine not running) or the vehicle driven to a speed of 7 mph so the system could detect the rotation and clear the code. The next issue was much less common and harder to find and that was an open circuit. Plug came loose, usually do to work being done and the plug forgotten or not plugged back in properly. The other cause for an open circuit would be a broken wire somewhere in the ABS harness. Even though I had a computer that would tell me if I had an open circuit I still had to track it down. Not always easy. I know this doesn't answer your question, but hopefully it will help find the issue. I was not allowed to splice a broken wire and had to replace the entire ABS harness both because of the safety issues and the fact these were new vehicles. It is my understanding that the VSS and ABS systems work together, but I suspect you will find the problem lies somewhere in the ABS system and probably has something to do with a wheel sensor. If it were mine I would make sure the wheel sensors and ring are free of any dirt or debris and the rings aren't damaged. Then I would make sure the sensors are close to the rings, even to the point of LIGHT contact. If it won't start I would raise a wheel off the ground and spin it as fast as I can with the ignition on so the computer can get a read on that sensor. I would do this with all the wheels and then see if that clears the code. Anything much more involved is going to take the dealers computer to get a read on what or where the issue lies.
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