All Things Oil For A Newbie

[John2611]

Greetings, fellow Spyder lovers! I'm a newbie to this forum as well as a newbie to Spyder ownership. We recently purchased our first, a 2011 RT. A bit older but low mileage and not a scratch on 'er! My question has to do with oil. If I need to "top it off," it seems there are tons of different opinions. The manual for the 2011 is very specific in calling for this:

"Recommended Engine Oil
The same oil is used for the engine,
gearbox, clutch, and the HCM in the
SE5 model.
Use the XPS SYNTHETIC BLEND OIL
(SUMMER GRADE) (P/N 293 600 121)
or a 5W 40 semi-synthetic (minimum)
or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting
the requirements for API service SL,
SJ, SH or SG classification. Always
check the API service label on the oil
container.
NOTICE
clutch, do not use a motor oil meet-
ing the API service SM or ILSAC GF-4
classification. Clutch slippage will
occur.'

It's not that I want to argue with the manufacturer, but what do you all use and suggest. Note that we purchased a warranty package with the Spyder, so I don't want to void that by using the wrong oil. I've read that many owners use, for example, Amsoil 5w 40 or 10w 40 motorcycle oil. Additionally, the Amsoil seems to meet the SM API service, which Can Am says will cause clutch slippage. Your feedback is greatly appreciated!

John

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Greetings, fellow Spyder lovers! I'm a newbie to this forum as well as a newbie to Spyder ownership. We recently purchased our first, a 2011 RT. A bit older but low mileage and not a scratch on 'er! My question has to do with oil. If I need to "top it off," it seems there are tons of different opinions. The manual for the 2011 is very specific in calling for this:

"Recommended Engine Oil
The same oil is used for the engine,
gearbox, clutch, and the HCM in the
SE5 model.
Use the XPS SYNTHETIC BLEND OIL
(SUMMER GRADE) (P/N 293 600 121)
or a 5W 40 semi-synthetic (minimum)
or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting
the requirements for API service SL,
SJ, SH or SG classification. Always
check the API service label on the oil
container.
NOTICE
clutch, do not use a motor oil meet-
ing the API service SM or ILSAC GF-4
classification. Clutch slippage will
occur.'

It's not that I want to argue with the manufacturer, but what do you all use and suggest. Note that we purchased a warranty package with the Spyder, so I don't want to void that by using the wrong oil. I've read that many owners use, for example, Amsoil 5w 40 or 10w 40 motorcycle oil. Additionally, the Amsoil seems to meet the SM API service, which Can Am says will cause clutch slippage. Your feedback is greatly appreciated!

John

Are you sure you bought a " Warranty " ..... or a " Service " package .... they work differently ..... And I learned to use after-market oil that is FULL synthetic, IMHO it's better oil and much less expensive ...... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

 

[John2611]

Are you sure you bought a " Warranty " ..... or a " Service " package .... they work differently ..... And I learned to use after-market oil that is FULL synthetic, IMHO it's better oil and much less expensive ...... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

Hey, Mike-- Yep, it's a warranty, not a service package, but good question. Can I assume you use 5w40 cycle oil? The reason I ask is that I see some folks using 10w40, plus I'm having trouble finding 5w40 locally. I have seen 5w40 European Auto oil, but that's probably not the same.

Thanks!

John

 

[ARtraveler]

In all the years I have been on the site, (2/2010), I have never heard of BRP voiding anyone's warranty because they used the wrong oil.

The subject of oil brings out many strong opinions.

A reminder from a moderator: Let's keep it friendly this go around.

A copy of the site rules in case someone needs a refresh.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/misc.php?do=vsarules

 

[Woodaddict]

welcome to spyder world!! have you read the manual?? do you know proper procedure to check oil? its not checking cold!! these beasts have an odd way to check oil, i'll say check it after a ride of 10 miles, stop let idle for 2 minutes, shut off, check oil within 2 minutes of shut off

 

[John2611]

My pologies!

In all the years I have been on the site, (2/2010), I have never heard of BRP voiding anyone's warranty because they used the wrong oil.

The subject of oil brings out many strong opinions.

A reminder from a moderator: Let's keep it friendly this go around.

A copy of the site rules, just in case you need a refresh.

All posts must be written in English (Threads/Posts written in a language other than English may be removed without notice).
Political posts are NOT allowed on the site.
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ARtraveller--

Please accept my apologies if I did something in violation posting rules! I'm not sure what I did, but if I answered Mike in a manner that could be taken as offensive, I do apologize!

John

 

[John2611]

welcome to spyder world!! have you read the manual?? do you know proper procedure to check oil? its not checking cold!! these beasts have an odd way to check oil, i'll say check it after a ride of 10 miles, stop let idle for 2 minutes, shut off, check oil within 2 minutes of shut off

Thanks for the feedback, Woodaddict. I have indeed read the manual, cover to cover actually, LOL! Yes, the odd procedure to check the oil jumped right out at me, so I followed the steps you outlined. I was just curious as to what you Spyder pros use for oil, especially in light of he fact that BRP markets their own oil. Thanks again!

John

 

[RayBJ]

John,
First, the warning above was not directed at you. Some topics get a lot of 'noise' from responders.

I use Castrol MC full synth and have had no issues.

 

[pegasus1300]

The one thing that is not mentioned in the manual is to look for a JASO MA2 rating. This is a Japonese standards organization and the MA2 means the oil is suitable for wet clutches, which our Spyders are.Some oils from other uses also carry an MA2. Shell Rotella T6 Diesel is one and many of us here use that. It comes in a 5w40 and is a synthetic oil. It is also cheap and since we are throwing it away every 4500 miles, I like that. Amzoil has an MA2 rated oil and some say it is the best you can get. BajaRon a site sponsor sells that at a discount. Lamonster Garage the site creator sells an MA2 oil that is also from a very high quality manufacturer. Valvolene, Quaker State, Kendal, Royal Purple and many others sell MA2 rated oils that are good and at varying price levels. So pick your poison and have fun. Ride more worry less (PA)

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

ARtraveller--

Please accept my apologies if I did something in violation posting rules! I'm not sure what I did, but if I answered Mike in a manner that could be taken as offensive, I do apologize!

John

No, I don't think you said anything wrong ..... annnnnnnnnnnnnd I didn't even consider what you posted to me was in any way offensive. .... because you have a 2011 model the BRP warranty extension ( BEST warranty ) wouldn't be possible. .... So what warranty did you buy ???? .... The " Moss Magnussen Act " prevents warranty issues as long as the OIL, TIRES or parts etc. are equal to or better than the OEM stuff...... and to save time ( and guarantee it's done correctly ) I ONLY check the oil level after a ride of at least 10 miles. Then you know it's correct when you go on another ride .... The V-twin engine does use oil at about one pint per 500-600 miles.... keep an eye on yours until you feel you know your average oil consumption. .... I use 5w-40 Rotella T-6, it's full synthetic and can be gotten at Walmart at everyday great price. .... Also 10w-40 is fine in your Spyder ..... have fun .... Mike :thumbup::thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

ARtraveller--

Please accept my apologies if I did something in violation posting rules! I'm not sure what I did, but if I answered Mike in a manner that could be taken as offensive, I do apologize!

John

You did nothing wrong. Since you are a new poster I know that you are not familiar with what happens with oil, mpg, and a few other threads. They sometimes get heated and we have to close the thread down, or take action against some who break the rules. We are now trying the friendly reminder method for all early on.

 

[John2611]

Thanks, Pegasus! It's funny, I've seen the 5w40 diesel oil but never would have guessed it could be used!

John

 

[BajaRon]

In 2011, BRP sold and recommended 10w/40 oil for the Spyder. They quit selling 10w/40 and so now they recommend what they sell, 5w/40. My opinion is that a 10w/40 oil is still a better fit for the Spyder. It certainly will not hurt or 'Void' any warranty.

There are some things to watch out for though.

#1 - Check your oil level correctly or GUARANTEED! You will overfill it creating issues that you do not want. You have to RIDE your Spyder to get a guaranteed accurate oil level reading because you need to shift through the gears (SE Only) and get the oil at least warm, preferably, but not critically necessary to operating temperature.

#2 - The SE5 (and to a slightly lesser degree, the SM5) are VERY wet clutch oil sensitive. Get the wrong oil and you'll slip your clutch. (Lug the SE5 and you'll do the same). Clutch replacement is expensive and unnecessary. Treat the clutch right in a Spyder and it will probably last the life of the vehicle. Treat it wrong and you may not get 1,000 miles out of it.

This sometimes works to scare people in to buying the BRP lubricant. I don't recommend this. Because, as mentioned above, there are much better products for less money. And even better products for about the same or slightly more.

#3 - Amsoil does not make a Wet Clutch Oil in a 5w/40. The Amsoil I recommend, and use, is their 10w/40 MCF. But whatever oil you use. It must be rated JASO MA2. Using any other JASO rated oil is a risk to your clutch.

#4 - The SM warning is because SM means that Friction Modifiers have been added to the lubricant. Friction Modifiers make the oil slipperier, which is great for everything BUT the CLUTCH! However, the SM rating is not necessarily a death knell for your Spyder. If the oil has a JASO rating of MA2 with the SM rating. Then you are still good to go. I little difficult to comprehend how a slipperier oil could still allow the clutch to function without issue. But these oil engineers keep coming up with the ability to go 2 directions at the same time.

#5 - Beware of oil recommendations from those who own an SM6/SE6 1330 ACE motor. BRP made changes to the clutch in them and they are not nearly as wet clutch sensitive as is the SM6/SE5. An oil that works fine in a 1330 may well slip the clutch in the 998.

I hope this helps. Don't be intimidated by all of this. There are a lot of great alternatives out there that will do a better job for less money. They are not hard to find. With a bit of care and proper attention, you should be very happy with your purchase. It is a good sign that you are asking BEFORE you find these things out the hard way.

Good Luck!

 

[ulflyer]

Walmart might have several oils with Jaso M2 to choose from. I used Amsoil when I had a 998, and other types in the 1330 but always come back to Amsoil. I know its a quality product and meets all requirements.

 

[R FUN]

I to have always and will continue using Amsoil. I buy all my oil filters and brake shoes from BajaRon, high quality and best of service, great guy to deal with. He even ships to Canada. Enjoy your ride, it’s a great bike.
Roger

 

[EdMat]

Since the subject of checking the oil level came up I guess this is as good a place to post an experiment I did.
First let me say that I proved myself wrong in something I had said before about idling for 10 minutes being as good as a ride. It's not.
There actually is a reason for following the procedure to check the oil.

Oil Temperature 83.8F Low mark on dipstick Not started for a little over 24 hours

Oil Temperature 151.3 F 1/2 way between low and full Idled for 10 minutes Fan did cycle on

Oil Temperature 211.8 F Full mark on dipstick 9 mile ride

Oil Temperature 206.9 F Full mark 25 mile ride

(I sure wish the tab key worked so the spacing wouldn't @#$$)

 

[IGETAROUND]

FWIW, the 990 cc twins, like their revs, and DO use oil between changes @ 4500miles.
Always have a spare quart of oil and a funnel with you to top up at ~ 500mile intervals when you stop for fuel!!!

Al in Kazoo