I was trying to stay away from this one. Thank you, Bfromia.
My primary opinion has always been, 'It's your ride, do what you like.' However, in some cases this can mean job security for repair shops. Nor am I here to talk anyone into or out of their chosen approach. I try to stick to the facts and what I feel is the most practical path forward.
As mentioned, saving a few bucks does not always produce thrift. It depends heavily on how it is done.
The Rotax engine is very robust. It can take quite a bit of abuse. Like flogging the throttle. The Rotax actually likes that. But cheaping out on lubricants and oil/filter change intervals can be counter-productive.
Then there is the eternal debate about 'Oil is Oil'. And all the different opinions in that realm, as the misinformation in this area is legendary. As has already been mentioned, this is easily discovered when you have various products professionally analyzed. There is a huge spectrum of quality in lubricants. Without getting an analysis, it’s just guessing.
So, to the OP’s question. He says he’s using ‘Full Synthetic’ oil. Which is, I am sure, what it says on the bottle. They can’t put it on the bottle if it isn’t true, right?
But your engine isn’t reading the bottle. And most likely, it isn’t really synthetic. Instead, it’s probably a Group III, mineral based oil. You don’t get the same protection from Group III that you do from a true synthetic made with Group IV, Ester based lubricants.
- Ester molecules are polar and magnetically cling to metal parts to protect engines during cold starts. This also protects internal parts against moisture and potential rust.
- Ester provides natural detergency that actively dissolves varnish and carbon. No need for an additive to accomplish this task.
- Ester handles extreme high-heat abuse well and leaves behind fewer deposits when burned. This is especially important in an engine like the 998 that burns oil.
Then you have the variables between the 998 V-Twin engine and the current 1330. In some cases, this makes a big difference. Be sure you're applying advise correctly.
1,500 miles isn’t much. But I would say that time will affect your oil more than your filters. This depends on the oil, of course, and the environment your Spyder lives in. How long it sits between rides that get the oil to operating temperature will also make a difference.
But for my 2 cents. What the OP is doing isn’t the end of the world. Still, if savings is the goal, using a true synthetic oil like Amsoil would cut down on cost and maintenance time as well. You can go 10k and you don’t have to worry about time. I know this goes against the consensus. But I’m already long here, and I’ve explained my rationale for this statement elsewhere.
