Any hints/tips on Handlebar center bolt removal?

[NLV_Jedi]

Hi, I purchased a Tackform center bolt phone holder and have been trying to remove any of the center bolts on the handlebar but it seems impossible.

The literature says 28 Nm torque but neither a ratchet wrench or an impact wrench will get any movement. I assume the threat locker is doing more than its job.

Does anyone has any tip to apply to remove these bolts? (I'll be happy removing ONE as I think I know where i want to mount it! )

Thanks a lot.

JP

 

[McClendons]

Assuming they used blue locktite, it should not be that hard to release. I would make sure I had a hex socket that fit perfectly and a breaker bar (1/2 inch for better leverage). If that does not work, I might try heating the bolt in question. That might be hard to do given location, but maybe try a good high wattage soldering iron on the bolt to heat it up. Sounds like someone might have used Red locktiteOnly ideas I have beyond an impact driver, and you mentioned that.

 

[racoon]

I added a docking station to my 2024 Spyder RT. It required removing two of the bolts that hold the handlebars in place.
I believe the old bolts were allen head bolts.
I used an allen wrench of the correct size, and put the short section of the wrench into the bolt head.
I then tapped on the end of the long section with a hammer in order to loosen the bolt.

 

[NLV_Jedi]

I added a docking station to my 2024 Spyder RT. It required removing two of the bolts that hold the handlebars in place.
I believe the old bolts were allen head bolts.
I used an allen wrench of the correct size, and put the short section of the wrench into the bolt head.
I then tapped on the end of the long section with a hammer in order to loosen the bolt.

thanks. I tried a 1200 Nm impact wrench and could not get either to move. the impact wrench clutch gives up before it moves. Tapping on the allen wrench will not do it.

 

[Mikey]

They use an almost yellow stuff that sometimes worse than red, it sticks things well!! Good luck, heat and pray!!!

 

[racoon]

thanks. I tried a 1200 Nm impact wrench and could not get either to move. the impact wrench clutch gives up before it moves. Tapping on the allen wrench will not do it.

I'm sorry you're having trouble with it.

 

[Br549rick]

longer cheater bar.....

 

[mecsw500]

I just took mine out to put in a 1-1/4” riser,

Mine had some orange colored thread locker on the bolts. Mine took a 6mm hex driver on a 1/2” drive with a 12” long ratchet.

They took a bit of effort. I tightened them just a touch then gave the ratchet a good bop with a rubber mallet. Once I got one to give a little I started on the next in a star pattern.

I used blue lock tight to put the new bolts in. I think on the assembly line someone used an air hammer to fit them.

 

[Mikey]

thanks. I tried a 1200 Nm impact wrench and could not get either to move. the impact wrench clutch gives up before it moves. Tapping on the allen wrench will not do it.

Put it on a breaker bar!

 

[Flier Tuck]

Back in the good old days before hammer tools we used thi trick to heat up awkward cap head bolts. Use the biggest capacity drill you have. Turn up a piece of brass around 6in long to fit the drill and then turn the end of the brass to fit in the hole in the cap head. Then by running the brass in the head of the screw using lots of pressure, the friction will soon transfer the heat to the thread without damaging the hexagon shape. Keep removing the brass tool frequently from the job and cool it to stop heat transferring into the drill chuck . The heat should allow you remove the screw and discard it as the heat will have destroyed its properties.