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Any thoughts about running Car Tires On The Rear?

I just replaced the stock Kenda OEM rear tire on my F3-S with a Toyo Proxes car tire. The Kenda was worn out in the middle at 22,000 miles. The dealer says it was because I ran it at too high a pressure. I ran it at 30 lbs which I thought was the correct spec. Any thoughts about the Toyo car tire and tire pressure? Thanks
 
It wasn't from 30 lbs, it's from weak tire manufacturing. You installed a car tire, much better and stronger cords to keep center from ballooning out. 18 - 20 lbs for car tires. Many tire threads on here to learn about best tires and pressures, can keep you reading for hours

Edit: since you posted in another thread. Kenda are manufactered with " for motorcycle use only" cause they are too weak for vehicle. The profile are exactly same, " J " style rims
 
Most experienced riders run car tires all the way around, and they all use about the same PSI. For more info, go to the "search" section.
 
Most experienced riders run car tires all the way around, and they all use about the same PSI. For more info, go to the "search" section.
 
The dealer is either ignorant or untruthful. Either way, not a good thing. You could run zero tire pressure (if that were possible) and the tire would still wear out in the middle, though 30 psi is a bit higher than recommended. Run 20-24 PSI in your Toyo. Some are running less than this.
 
I just replaced the stock Kenda OEM rear tire on my F3-S with a Toyo Proxes car tire. The Kenda was worn out in the middle at 22,000 miles. The dealer says it was because I ran it at too high a pressure. I ran it at 30 lbs which I thought was the correct spec. Any thoughts about the Toyo car tire and tire pressure? Thanks
Actually, EVERYBODY runs 'car tires' all round on their Spyders - the Kendas ARE car tires in all respects except that they're made very lightly made (and with poor quality control) and they have that label on the side so that people won't try putting them on their car, where they'd fail catastrophically pretty quickly cos they're so weak! But the Spyders' rims are car rims, with car style 'J' type bead profiles, and the Kendas have car tire construction, nothing at all like a motorcycle tire, but exactly the same construction type as all car tires, only weaker. 😣 It's a combination of that weak tire construction and the width of the rear tire that causes the centre of the Kenda & their clones tread to 'balloon out' when the tire rotates, more and more the higher the speed of rotation, pretty much regardless of their pressure, causing the rapid wear in the centre of the tread - cos that's the only bit ever touching the ground! 😖

Most 'real' car tires are capable of carrying significantly more load than that imposed upon them by a Spyder, so if you run a 'real' car tire on your Spyder, their stronger construction holds the entire tread surface flat & in contact with the road surface and their stronger sidewalls mean that you really won't need to run anything much more than about 18 psi in them to carry the significantly lighter load of your Spyder, even if fully loaded, maybe a little less if you're light, lightly laden, or just pottering around town (don't go lower than 14 psi tho!), and running pressures much higher than that will likely introduce issues and wear characteristics related to over-inflation. If you've been running higher pressures for a while, it might feel a bit odd for a while, but once you get used to riding with pressure closer to what they should be for the load and therefore how things should feel, you'll likely very quickly learn enjoy the greater traction, better ride, handling, and the longer tread wear etc. Just Sayin' ;)
 
Actually, 30 PSI on the rear Kenda is what is recommended and the dealer just said what Can Am wants them to say.

This is cut and pasted right out of my manual which came with the new Spyder.
Tire Sticker.jpg
I got about 6,000 miles out of the OEM Kenda rear. Get at least 4 or 5 times that with a Kumho @ 24 PSi on the rear.


Probably could get better mileage out of the rear, but I always try to stop just on the edge of the wide painted lines at the stop lights. The painted lines and the oil on the road leaves a slick place. If one of the kids on a Harley bagger with shotgun pipes stops side of me and revs the engine waiting for the green light, I leave him in a cloud of tire smoke when the light turns green. I have to keep getting older, but I don't have to grow up. I am only 75.

It is a safety thing. That oil on the road where the leaking heaps stop to wait for the light makes the tire slick and needs to be burned off before getting back up to speed.
 
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I am on my third General Altimax, and on the first two of them I replaced them early because I didn't want to be on the far side of beyond on a long tour and have the tour upended because I couldn't find another Altimax (Wally World can solve that problem) and, most important, a BRP dealership that would install a car tire AND check the belt tension with a Gates meter every time the wheel is removed the way the Spyder tech at the original dealership does.
 
It wasn't from 30 lbs, it's from weak tire manufacturing. You installed a car tire, much better and stronger cords to keep center from ballooning out. 18 - 20 lbs for car tires. Many tire threads on here to learn about best tires and pressures, can keep you reading for hours

Edit: since you posted in another thread. Kenda are manufactered with " for motorcycle use only" cause they are too weak for vehicle. The profile are exactly same, " J " s

The dealer is either ignorant or untruthful. Either way, not a good thing. You could run zero tire pressure (if that were possible) and the tire would still wear out in the middle, though 30 psi is a bit higher than recommended. Run 20-24 PSI in your Toyo. Some are running less than this.
Thank you! I have noticed the new tire has a better ride.
 
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