Any thoughts on this VSS Error & Limp Home Mode? Possibly the battery??

[Mrmikey]

Mornin' all.
Just bought this, '15 SE6 FE3T, 18,000 kms, a few weeks back and got a 'VSS error, limp home mode' this am.
Story behind the drive. Went out for a ride with just my vest on, went about 3km from home and had to go back home for a jacket as it was a bit colder than I thought. Set the brake, shut the rig off, went into the house, came back out, and started it, released the brake, which it seemed to just fine. Got out on the road and it felt... different. I looked down, and I saw my Spyder had "VSS Error, Limp Home mode", and I was limited to 85kph. l drove a couple of kms, pulled over, restarted, and been fine ever since. I had a check engine light (Never noticed message) the other day after stopping for fuel, restarting to move and park in shade, and restarting a couple of minutes later. Using the brake all times.
The battery tests fine on one of those small capacitance testers, but I'm now getting leery of it. I'm thinking that in both instances, it was caused by a major power draw, then starting, as well as the park brake application and release. So maybe there was insufficient time between those starts to fully recoup the battery. Thoughts, anyone?

 

[BajaRon]

Do a genuine load test on the battery, being first sure it is fully charged. That's the first place I'd look. A low voltage upon startup can give the computer a stroke. It gets disoriented and can hallucinate all kinds of nonexistent issues. Fortunately, these are temporary and with correct voltage supplied, the problem goes away.

If the battery is good, then hooking up to BUDS may be your next best move.

 

[Mrmikey]

Do a genuine load test on the battery, being first sure it is fully charged

I don't have a lot of faith in those capacitance testers so I plan on taking it and doing and actual proper load test on it. I usually plug it in to a maintainer but I've been lazy the past week as I usually go out once a day for a spin (haven't for a couple of days) and moving it around to get my old bike out when a fella came to look at it.
Now that I think of it, when I've been starting it, it sounds like an engine with the timing advance off a bit, gives a bit of a hesitation when initially turning over.

 

[BajaRon]

I don't have a lot of faith in those capacitance testers so I plan on taking it and doing and actual proper load test on it. I usually plug it in to a maintainer but I've been lazy the past week as I usually go out once a day for a spin (haven't for a couple of days) and moving it around to get my old bike out when a fella came to look at it.
Now that I think of it, when I've been starting it, it sounds like an engine with the timing advance off a bit, gives a bit of a hesitation when initially turning over.

Sounds like battery. The Spyder is very voltage sensitive. It also has a fair amount of parasitic draw. Not a good combination. I'd say you're on the right track.

 

[baxter]

I was getting VSS faults after starting quite often on my 2022. Changed two year old battery and corrected issue.

 

[Mrmikey]

I've got a new one ordered, I didn't even bother load testing the old one since it seems it's a somewhat common thing.

 

[Bfromla]

Even new batteries can be crap, be sure it gets a full charge & clean/tight connections. Suggest using star washers between the post & terminals (gets good “bite”)

 

[Mrmikey]

Got a new battery and tested the old one after getting it out. It was off the tender for at least a day so no surface charge, it only tested at 225 CCA on the capacitance tester, load test showed 200A. I think the reason it tested good when I initially tested it, I had just taken it off the tender an hour or so before hand.
New one in and you can tell the difference, it doesn't have the slight 'hiccup' when it initially cranks over.

 

[Mikey]

Got a new battery and tested the old one after getting it out. It was off the tender for at least a day so no surface charge, it only tested at 225 CCA on the capacitance tester, load test showed 200A. I think the reason it tested good when I initially tested it, I had just taken it off the tender an hour or so before hand.
New one in and you can tell the difference, it doesn't have the slight 'hiccup' when it initially cranks over.

That's why I don't use the tender in the summer even if it's going to sit a while, it gives you a false feeling of what's going on with your battery. When they start rolling over slow and maybe hiccup, there is something going on. Now, when they crank slowly after you been down the road for a while, it's time for a load test!! Glad you found your gremlin!

 

[Trippinout]

Had the battery issue as well. The bike had a seizure when I tried to start it. Display flashing on and off, no crank. Battery voltage was fine, but I had the battery load tested, and a cell had gone bad. Bought a Yuasa battery, no more issues.

 

[Blake33]

Had the battery issue as well. The bike had a seizure when I tried to start it. Display flashing on and off, no crank. Battery voltage was fine, but I had the battery load tested, and a cell had gone bad. Bought a Yuasa battery, no more issues.

What model # Yuasa battery is compatible with a '25 RT Ltd?

 

[Trippinout]

I have a Yuasa YTX24, but I also have a 2022 F3, not a 2025 RT. I can't think there would be a difference in battery. Look for 350 cold cranking amps (CCA). If buying this yourself, you will need to activate (add acid) the battery. If you are having a dealer install, they will take care of activation.

 

[Rdrnr]

Mornin' all.
Just bought this, '15 SE6 FE3T, 18,000 kms, a few weeks back and got a 'VSS error, limp home mode' this am.
Story behind the drive. Went out for a ride with just my vest on, went about 3km from home and had to go back home for a jacket as it was a bit colder than I thought. Set the brake, shut the rig off, went into the house, came back out, and started it, released the brake, which it seemed to just fine. Got out on the road and it felt... different. I looked down, and I saw my Spyder had "VSS Error, Limp Home mode", and I was limited to 85kph. l drove a couple of kms, pulled over, restarted, and been fine ever since. I had a check engine light (Never noticed message) the other day after stopping for fuel, restarting to move and park in shade, and restarting a couple of minutes later. Using the brake all times.
The battery tests fine on one of those small capacitance testers, but I'm now getting leery of it. I'm thinking that in both instances, it was caused by a major power draw, then starting, as well as the park brake application and release. So maybe there was insufficient time between those starts to fully recoup the battery. Thoughts, anyone?

Check the TPS. Clean and use some dielectric grease on it.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

Do a genuine load test on the battery, being first sure it is fully charged. That's the first place I'd look. A low voltage upon startup can give the computer a stroke. It gets disoriented and can hallucinate all kinds of nonexistent issues. Fortunately, these are temporary and with correct voltage supplied, the problem goes away.

If the battery is good, then hooking up to BUDS may be your next best move.

A carbon-pile tester is the only device that really shows the health of a battery. Those cheap China testers? Good landfill.

 

[Chasdog]

We went for a ride today on our 2023 Canam RT and after filling up with gas the VSS code popped up briefly and went away as I started moving. About an hour later while taking off from a traffic light and turning left the vss code popped up again and it went into limp mode. I promptly turned in to a parking lot and shut off the engine. Upon restarting all was normal and resumed our ride. At a stop sign I made another left turn and accelerated and it went into limp mode again. Stopped again and turned off engine and back on and limp mode went away again. Got home and took it out alone trying to put it in limp mode unsuccessfully.
So I will try the mode set button thingy and get the code. That may give me my answer but what do you guys think. If the code goes away are you good to ride?
I might add that I replaced the original battery after the first year and put in a new non Chinese battery. It still may be the battery I would guess but seems to turn over well.

 

[Chasdog]

Well I had the battery load tested today and battery was fine. I picked up some star washers when replacing the battery.
So I’m back to my original thought that I must have freaked out the nanny with my left turns and acceleration. If it does it again I will know to check code before I shut off engine.

 

[Tslepebull]

Mornin' all.
Just bought this, '15 SE6 FE3T, 18,000 kms, a few weeks back and got a 'VSS error, limp home mode' this am.
Story behind the drive. Went out for a ride with just my vest on, went about 3km from home and had to go back home for a jacket as it was a bit colder than I thought. Set the brake, shut the rig off, went into the house, came back out, and started it, released the brake, which it seemed to just fine. Got out on the road and it felt... different. I looked down, and I saw my Spyder had "VSS Error, Limp Home mode", and I was limited to 85kph. l drove a couple of kms, pulled over, restarted, and been fine ever since. I had a check engine light (Never noticed message) the other day after stopping for fuel, restarting to move and park in shade, and restarting a couple of minutes later. Using the brake all times.
The battery tests fine on one of those small capacitance testers, but I'm now getting leery of it. I'm thinking that in both instances, it was caused by a major power draw, then starting, as well as the park brake application and release. So maybe there was insufficient time between those starts to fully recoup the battery. Thoughts, anyone?

I had a similar event with my new Canyon. VSS fault and limp home mode (limited to 70 mph). I realized my new boot was resting against the brake pedal while I was riding and giving it throttle; confusing the ecm. I rode about 20 miles at 70. Stopped briefly and shut it down, and restarted. The fault went away about 1/2 mile after the restart. No stored codes and no repeats in 3,000 more miles. Just repositioning my foot on the peg has prevented any other issues.