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Anyone close to Pembroke Pines with BUDS and able to clear error codes?
- Thread starter Rastaman
- Start date
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
It's a funny thing about error codes. You need to fix the underlying problem. Otherwise, even if you clear them with BUDS, they will come right back. You don't need BUDS in order to find out what they are. With the machine running and the codes and warning lights active, simultaneously depress the MODE, SET, and turn signal CANCEL buttons ( turn signal button straight in ). The center LCD display will change to a new screen and list the active codes. It will stay that way for a period of time in order to write them down or you can repeat until you get them all. Try to be accurate, post them on here, and we can look them up.
Your issue can be as simple as needing to replace a few vacuum lines or do brake maintenance. The codes will tell the tale. A 15 year old machine will have a few aches and pains. You need to find out what they are.
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Hey snowbelt. Thanks, I have already addressed the problems. Complete oil and filter change, brake replacement, brake fluid replaced and bled, but the mechanic can't clear the brake failure code.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Is the code C1282, or C0049?
Yes sir and the brake failure warning light at start ou.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Ok. If by Yes, you mean that you have both of those codes, let's go with the easy one first.
C0049 - your brake fluid level in the reservoirs is still too low. It's a design flaw and a common issue until you get accustom to it. The reservoir slants down towards the front of the bike, but the level sensors are in the rear. So, they are in the area of lowest level. The sensors are those white plastic things. You need to fill up each chamber until the floats in the center float up so that the upper edge is slightly above the outer rings. See Pic. Check to make sure each float is free to move and not stuck. Also, check that the diaphragm inside the caps hasn't expanded. Just pop them back into place. When you put the caps back on, put the little vent hump in the cap towards the rear. C0049 will reset automatically once the level is OK. Very rarely, there might be a sensor failure, but they're pretty reliable. Magnetic switches. The rest of the sensor is mounted underneath the reservoir chambers.
C1282 - That is the code for Low Brake System Pressure. There is a micro switch on the brake pedal linkage - along with the brake light switch - that measures a specific amount of brake pedal travel. When that switch is actuated, brake system pressure is checked by the ECM. If it's not above 508#, you get that fault and brake failure. Even when you do brake maintenance, this code needs manually reset. If you don't have BUDS you do the following:
- First, it doesn't hurt to ride the machine a bit and bed in the new pads. You'll want to try this with a nice, firm pedal.
- Second, get on the bike, turn on the key, acknowledge the safety card message, but don't start up the engine. Allow a little time for all the electronics to boot up.
- Press on the brake pedal really hard. You'll hear the first click of the brake light switch and possibly a second click of the low pressure switch. Even if you don't hear the second click, just keep pressing the brake pedal as hard as you can.
- Keep pressing the brake pedal continuously and turn off the key.
- Wait at least the next 30 seconds until all of the computers, the cluster and lights shutdown. It doesn't hurt to wait a few more seconds after that. No hurry.
- After it all shuts down, you can take your foot off the brake pedal.
- Lastly, take a deep breath, cross your fingers, leave your foot off the pedal and turn the key back on. Hopefully it has cleared. This works about 90% of the time. Repeat as required. If you can't get the brake failure C1282 to reset, you either need to do a better brake system bleed / flush (don't skip the VCM even though it's a pain to get to) or resort to BUDS.
In case you need or want one, here's a link to the shop manual download. Good luck.
2010-2011 Can-Am Spyder RT Series Repair and Maintenance Manual Master Collection
New updated full digital version as of 5/2019 High Definition Keyword Searchable Factory OEM Manual - 1260 Pages Covers the entire 2010-2011 CanAm Spyder RT / RTS / Ltd. series (all versions) Contains over 450 pages of extra content never included in the book including: The full BRP 804 page...
brpmanuals.com
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Omg thanks for all that information I will definitely go through this process and let you know if it works..thanks for responding to my message.Ok. If by Yes, you mean that you have both of those codes, let's go with the easy one first.
C0049 - your brake fluid level in the reservoirs is still too low. It's a design flaw and a common issue until you get accustom to it. The reservoir slants down towards the front of the bike, but the level sensors are in the rear. So, they are in the area of lowest level. The sensors are those white plastic things. You need to fill up each chamber until the floats in the center float up so that the upper edge is slightly above the outer rings. See Pic. Check to make sure each float is free to move and not stuck. Also, check that the diaphragm inside the caps hasn't expanded. Just pop them back into place. When you put the caps back on, put the little vent hump in the cap towards the rear. C0049 will reset automatically once the level is OK. Very rarely, there might be a sensor failure, but they're pretty reliable. Magnetic switches. The rest of the sensor is mounted underneath the reservoir chambers.
C1282 - That is the code for Low Brake System Pressure. There is a micro switch on the brake pedal linkage - along with the brake light switch - that measures a specific amount of brake pedal travel. When that switch is actuated, brake system pressure is checked by the ECM. If it's not above 508#, you get that fault and brake failure. Even when you do brake maintenance, this code needs manually reset. If you don't have BUDS you do the following:
- First, it doesn't hurt to ride the machine a bit and bed in the new pads. You'll want to try this with a nice, firm pedal.
- Second, get on the bike, turn on the key, acknowledge the safety card message, but don't start up the engine. Allow a little time for all the electronics to boot up.
- Press on the brake pedal really hard. You'll hear the first click of the brake light switch and possibly a second click of the low pressure switch. Even if you don't hear the second click, just keep pressing the brake pedal as hard as you can.
- Keep pressing the brake pedal continuously and turn off the key.
- Wait at least the next 30 seconds until all of the computers, the cluster and lights shutdown. It doesn't hurt to wait a few more seconds after that. No hurry.
- After it all shuts down, you can take your foot off the brake pedal.
- Lastly, take a deep breath, cross your fingers, leave your foot off the pedal and turn the key back on. Hopefully it has cleared. This works about 90% of the time. Repeat as required. If you can't get the brake failure C1282 to reset, you either need to do a better brake system bleed / flush (don't skip the VCM even though it's a pain to get to) or resort to BUDS.
In case you need or want one, here's a link to the shop manual download. Good luck.
2010-2011 Can-Am Spyder RT Series Repair and Maintenance Manual Master Collection
New updated full digital version as of 5/2019 High Definition Keyword Searchable Factory OEM Manual - 1260 Pages Covers the entire 2010-2011 CanAm Spyder RT / RTS / Ltd. series (all versions) Contains over 450 pages of extra content never included in the book including: The full BRP 804 page...
View attachment 253756
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