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Are you using Tie down straps to secure a Spyder with e-track in an enclosed trailer?

WRCLVR

Member
If anyone is using Erickson e-track tiedown straps with Erickson e-track wheel chocks, (or Macs, which is similar). I would like to find out the following so I can make an informed purchase:

1. Are you using just the straps or wheel nets?
2. How easy is it to fit the straps if using them (this is for the 2" wide straps)
A.) over the front wheels?​
B.) over the rear wheel​
3. How easy is it to fit the wheel nets if using them (IIRC those are 2" webs as well )? Fronts and rears?
4. If using the wheel chocks, are you using one or two per wheel?
5. Is the standard strap strength working ok, or do I need to jump up to ~2000 lb straps (each)?

I have a new 2025 24 ft dual axle enclosed trailer with 3 runs of e-track fitted to the S2S track width and going the full length of the trailer. 10000 lb GVWR with electric brakes and surge backup, pulled by a 2017 Ram 3500 CTD dually. The trailer weighs 4400 lb and will weigh ~6600lb loaded with both S2S's.
 
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I use e track with e track chocks with 2" straps on all 3 wheels. the two wheel chocks one on each front wheel (the chocks let me know when to stop). The straps are the one that came with rubber block on the, I cut the rubber blocks off. Its not hard to set the three straps up and tie down my 2012 RTL. My trailer is a 5.5 X 10 open trailer, with 3 lines of e track set to the RTL width (center of the front tires). Good luck with your project.
 
I have an enclosed trailer that just barely fits my Spyder.
I have a chock for the front tires. I have Z-track on the floor as I drive on.
I put a strap over both tires.
I have a piece of rubber tread under the rear tire, it won't move side to side (although I've been advised to strap the back down!)
 
I have a 28' Intech ICON trailer.
It has heavy duty tie points for the car, as well as several rows of e-track along the length of the trailer.
I'll be carrying my Spyder along with my race car, using the e-track to tie the bike down.
I dislike the tire straps. I plan to add eye nuts to the front lower shock mounts, and make a shaft to go through the rear axle that I can thread eyes onto each end to secure the rear. It will be easily removable when not in use.

I brought it home on my open aluminum trailer, using axle straps through the A-Arms and swing-arm, but I want a more permanent solution.

2024-10-02 20.09.18.jpg - 2024-10-02 20.10.05.jpg
 
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I am using an E Track system. I purchase my Equipment from Harbour Freight. Mounted the rails in my enclosed trailer. I made four stops from two by fours. I have placed the stops, one in front and one at the rear of my front wheels. So two Stops for each front wheel. For the Rear Wheel I installed two strap rings. So I use 3 ratchet straps. One strap at each wheel. This set up has worked perfectly for me.

As additional information, I had my straps modified to 5' from the 20'. Just so I didn't have all the extra length.
My straps are rated for 3,000 pounds of force. Spyder only needs 1500 pounds. I like to be Safe.

PS: the Spyder does not move forward or reverse with this setup.
That is my story. (y)
 
The ratchet strap over the rear tire is a bit of a pain to install. When I do the 1550 commute AZ to WA and WA to AZ, I put additional side straps on the rear wheel, and straps from eyes on the lower shock bolts to pads on the trailer deck. Belt and suspenders! I found that the Spyder did not like backing over wheel chocks behind the tires, so I replaced those with three slot flat tracks (Picture one).

Erickson tie down.jpg - Rear tie down.jpg

front strap.jpg

Tie down Ring cropped.jpg
 
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Like your pictures Snoking1127.
That's what I do for the front wheels.
At the rear I go through my wheel with a big towel around the strap
and then to eye loops. My eye loops are mounted in the trailer floor
at the rear corners. My trailer came with eye loops.
 
I am using an E Track system. I purchase my Equipment from Harbour Freight. Mounted the rails in my enclosed trailer. I made four stops from two by fours. I have placed the stops, one in front and one at the rear of my front wheels. So two Stops for each front wheel. For the Rear Wheel I installed two strap rings. So I use 3 ratchet straps. One strap at each wheel. This set up has worked perfectly for me.

As additional information, I had my straps modified to 5' from the 20'. Just so I didn't have all the extra length.
My straps are rated for 3,000 pounds of force. Spyder only needs 1500 pounds. I like to be Safe.

PS: the Spyder does not move forward or reverse with this setup.
That is my story. (y)
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking... Thanks to all who posted up. My trailer also has 6 D-rings installed in the floor, so I might use those.

Can I get a bit of clarification tho, how exactly do you guys run the strap over the rear tire? Front tire?

IIRC, one of you posted that they use e-track wheel chocks in the front and drive up to them using them as stops too? Sounds good.
 
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Yeah, that's what I'm thinking... Thanks to all who posted up. My trailer also has 6 D-rings installed in the floor, so I might use those.

Can I get a bit of clarification tho, how exactly do you guys run the strap over the rear tire? Front tire?

IIRC, one of you posted that they use e-track wheel chocks in the front and drive up to them using them as stops too? Sounds good.
Check Out the pictures on Post #8.
I am doing my front wheels that way.
For the rear tire my strap goes through the wheel and then to my corner D-rings.
 
I have a Stinger Can-Am Trailer for my Spyder. It has a lot of welded on rings on the trailer, making it fairly easy to add straps.
You load the Spyder facing forward. The front wheels rest against vertical stop plates.
The straps are cloth with metal hooks on the ends.

Stinger recommends you use a "cross" pattern for each front wheel strap (one for each wheel). You run the strap through the wheel and around the stop plates, with the hooks ending up against stop so it doesn't scratch the wheel. The straps have ratchets so you can snug them down.

If you're standing in front of the Spyder and looking at the left wheel, you feed the hook from the left side of the bike (your right since you're facing the bike) and stretch the strap to the right side of the bike (your left as you're facing the bike, place the hook on the strap where it crosses in front of the stop plate. In your case, the hook would connect to the strap in front of the tire. You connect the other end of the strap to a hook on the right side of the trailer. And do the reverse to the right front tire.

So right front tire is strapped down to the left side of the trailer and the left front tire is strapped down to the right side of the trailer.

For the rear tire you have to worry about the drive belt sprocket.
Facing the same direction as the Spyder, so left is left and right is right.
Feed the strap through the wheel from right to the left or left to right, whichever is easiest for you.
Then take the strap that comes out of the right side of the wheel and pull it over to the left side of the trailer passing over the rear of the tire.
Then take the strap that comes out of the left side of the wheel and pull it over to the right side of the trailer passing over the rear of the tire.
Like this:

rearstrap.jpeg
 
6x10 aluminum open utility trailer with aluminum deck. Looking for aluminum etrack instead of the standard steel track,(rust issue) only reasonable place I found was Mac's. Was going to fasten with stainless bolts, just for the front wheels, ratchet strap thru rear wheel as the diagram above to rear corner deck rings.
 
The ratchet strap over the rear tire is a bit of a pain to install. When I do the 1550 commute AZ to WA and WA to AZ, I put additional side straps on the rear wheel, and straps from eyes on the lower shock bolts to pads on the trailer deck. Belt and suspenders! I found that the Spyder did not like backing over wheel chocks behind the tires, so I replaced those with three slot flat tracks (Picture one).

View attachment 211722 - View attachment 211723

View attachment 211724

View attachment 211725
I use one inch aluinum angle iron under the deck of my aluminum trailer and 1/4 20 SS hardware.
 
Thanks for all who posted in this thread!!!

My 3 Erickson e-track tie downs with e-track wheel chocks and 2 straps each will get here Wed !!!

As soon as we get a nice sunny warm day next week, I will post up on the install on my 24' v-nose 2025 Spartan dual axle trailer using my 2024 S2S as the guinea pig. I opted to get three of the two strap packs with 2 e-track wheel chocks each. That way I have enough chocks for all three wheels for both of my S2S spyders.
As another poster indicated, I "may" have to cut the rubber wheel stops off the straps, at least the one in the middle of the strap. Hopefully not... My thought on the e-track chocks was that it is better to have all three wheels chocked. Peace of mind :)

Straps are 1100 WLL and 3000 lb breaking strength, so 3200 WLL combined total and 9000 lb breaking strength.

Oh, BTW, the straps will also fit my 2002 Miata in case I decide to track it, so I'm def hoping the center rubber block will not need removing... The Miata weighs 2450 lbs, so with all 4 straps, it'll be 4400 WLL and 12000 breaking strength. That should be enough for safety. :)
 
I've hauled all sorts of cars and trucks on trailers and never used chocks.
As long as your straps are rated for the load, the chocks don't really do anything but make you feel better. ;)
 
I've hauled all sorts of cars and trucks on trailers and never used chocks.
As long as your straps are rated for the load, the chocks don't really do anything but make you feel better. ;)
If you have chocks and have to slam on brakes they take a lot of energy away from the straps.
 
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Well my order just got here. So as soon as I get dry, warmer weather, I'll get a bike to the trailer and see how it fits. I will predict that as someone else posted, I will have to cut some of the rubber blocks from the straps to get them to fit over the tires easier.
Will take pics when done and evaluated.
 
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