• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Battery Tender

:dontknow: I just use one of Deltran's, "Battery Tender Juniors" and have been pleased as punch with the results. :thumbup:
 
Deltran Battery Tender Plus 12V 1.25 Amp is the best for the spyder. I have mine tendering right now as we speak. :)
 
Me too

Deltran Battery Tender Plus 12V 1.25 Amp is the best for the spyder. I have mine tendering right now as we speak. :)

+1 on that one. Not one bit of battery trouble since I started using the heavier duty version. The Battery Tender Junior is now for the Morphous.

Patrick
 
The amperage rating for a float charger is not important as they are trickle chargers and charge at two amps or less. What is important is the quality of the charger circuitry. It should be auto-regulated, temperature-compensated, and microprocessor controlled.

Deltran makes excellent chargers, you couldn't go wrong with one of those.

If you care about the service life of your battery keep it charged throughout the off season to prevent sulfation which will cut battery life severely.
 
I used a Pulsetech www.pulsetech.net charger on my Goldwing for 5 years and now it's on my RT. I have been very pleased and have never had a battery issue.

They are more expensive than the Battery Tenders (which are very good too). If I'm home, my bike is on a charger.

Shop around and you can find deals on them.
 
I have several Battery Tenders and two Schmacher brand tenders (Wal Mart) and all work well. I have my tenders on my trikes, tractor, riding mower, ATV and motorhome 24/7. Works for me.

:spyder2:
 
Where do you hook the ground clamp too? Frame?

That depends on the means of connection you are using. Alligator clips to jumper terminals under the seat. Charging pigtails are best run directly to the battery terminals inside the body, not the charging terminals under the seat. Rt owners can use an adapter to plug into the 12V outlet in the rear cargo compartment.
 
That depends on the means of connection you are using. Alligator clips to jumper terminals under the seat. Charging pigtails are best run directly to the battery terminals inside the body, not the charging terminals under the seat. Rt owners can use an adapter to plug into the 12V outlet in the rear cargo compartment.

What happens if the pigtail is connected to the charging terminals under the seat?

I assume the charging terminals could be used without a problem -- and the preference to connect to the battery terminals is to provide a more direct/solid connection. Right? Wrong?
 
What happens if the pigtail is connected to the charging terminals under the seat?

I assume the charging terminals could be used without a problem -- and the preference to connect to the battery terminals is to provide a more direct/solid connection. Right? Wrong?
If you try to loosen the negative jumper terminal, you will likely regret it. The bolt is not threaded into the frame, but rather held by a nut. That nut is not very accessible. If the terminal is loosened, you will have to take off the right side bodywork, get creative with your tools, and break out the naval vocabulary. The jumper t3erminal; is also the rear frame ground, and a loose terminal can cause all sorts of electrical problems and warning displays. Easier to just remove the left side panels and go to the battery. nojoke
 
:shocked: :agree: Don't go near those connections under the seat unless you're ready to teach yourself some new cuss words! :gaah:
 
If you try to loosen the negative jumper terminal, you will likely regret it. The bolt is not threaded into the frame, but rather held by a nut. That nut is not very accessible. If the terminal is loosened, you will have to take off the right side bodywork, get creative with your tools, and break out the naval vocabulary. The jumper t3erminal; is also the rear frame ground, and a loose terminal can cause all sorts of electrical problems and warning displays. Easier to just remove the left side panels and go to the battery. nojoke

Thanks...

I just had pigtails put on mine just about a week ago at the dealer when I took it in to have some basic servicing done (and the new "oil" panel put on).

I am going to ask how he did it. Surely he would have known not to try the terminals...:yikes: You would think he would know what a hassle that could be.

I'll find out though when I ask...
 
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