BBs in the Handlebars

[Dudley]

Well, the BBs finally got me (some fell into the signal light switch area like happened to a few other riders before me)! But, there is a solution! I have an SE5, so the hole on the left handlebar where the BBs go into the signal switch can easily be closed. I put 2 layers of electrical tape and one layer of duck tape over the hole. I then clipped the little nubby that fits into the hole to keep the switch from slipping on the bar. No problem doing that, the tape acts as a good gripper when you tighten it back up. If you have an SM5, the nubby can be used over the tape. I doubt that it would ever go through, and even if it did, the duck tape would hold the BBs back. The BBs are working great on this trip. I don't like cruise so my hand is always working, but the fatigue is minimal compared to before the BBs. Before, it was painful!

 

[tweeder]

Well, the BBs finally got me! But, there is a solution! I have an SE5, so the hole on the left handlebar where the BBs go into the signal switch can easily be closed. I put 2 layers of electrical tape and one layer of duck tape over the hole. I then clipped the little nubby that fits into hole to keep the switch from slipping on the bar. No problem doing that, the tape acts as a good gripper when you tighten it back up. If you have an SM5, the nubby can be used over the tape. I doubt that it would ever go through, and even if it did, the duck tape would hold the BBs back. The BBs are working great on this trip. I don't like cruise so my hand is always working, but the fatigue is minimal compared to before the BBs. Before, it was painful!

I read your post on the other forum and did it to and man the best $10 I spent yet. I'm gonna put em in the quad and jetski next.

 

[Dudley]

Update

Have had no problem with the tape over the hole.

BBs work! If anyone wants to install them, just remover the signal switch and tape over the hole before installing the BBs. Best mod you will ever do for the money!

 

[rleathen]

One thing to be aware of. There is a hole on the throttle side as well. I am not sure if the throttle housing has a hole large enough to allow BB's to get in but it is something you may want to check out.

 

[bone crusher]

Enjoy your bbs...I won't go that way...

I was thinking of adding some dynamite and then packing it in real tight...okay, maybe not (boom!)...

I'm content with the throttlemeister...I'm wondering if some bikes rattle much more than others? I really don't have much of a problem with vibration...

 

[BRPjunkie]

One thing to be aware of. There is a hole on the throttle side as well. I am not sure if the throttle housing has a hole large enough to allow BB's to get in but it is something you may want to check out.

Per Scotty's suggestion, I rolled up a 1" piece of black plastic and pushed it inside the handlebars to cover the turn signal hole from the inside before I put the BBs in, but I did not check the throttle side. At least two confirmed cases of stuck turn signal mechanism due to BBs. Stuck turn signal is one thing, but stuck throttle is another. :yikes: If someone has already looked at the hole on the throttle side, please post your observation.

 

[rleathen]

If you have the NMN risers installed the hole will not be a problem. I just checked mine (I just recently installed the 3 inch risers) and it appears that the replacement bars that were shipped are not completely hollow. It appears that the bars were once solid pipes that have been bored out. With this in mind on both bars there is solid metal that separates the end of the bar (where you put the BB's in) from the end with the hole where the multifunction switch and throttle assembly are installed. In other words with the NMN supplied bars there is no connection between the bar end opening and the other end where the smaller registration holes are. This also means however that you can not squeeze in as many BB's as on the original bars.

Just something else to keep in mind.

 

[BRPjunkie]

Stock bars here so I need to go out and remove the throttle housing to inspect the hole.

 

[NancysToy]

Stock bars here so I need to go out and remove the throttle housing to inspect the hole.

Don't let your BBs escape! Those suckers can really hide.
-Scotty

 

[retread]

Picked up 2 rubber corks that I could press into the bars, put screws in them so I could get them out, put 1 in the end of the bar, jacked up the other side of Spydee (I've really got to get another name for her) and put BBs in till full. Installed 2nd cork, done. Works great.

john

 

[Questions]

throttle hole

Anyone find anything out about the throttle hole? Just bought my BBs today

 

[RYDRS]

How many??

So.how many BB's would you put in your handlebars? Do you load it tight or just a few??opcorn:

 

[bjt]

So.how many BB's would you put in your handlebars? Do you load it tight or just a few??opcorn:

I believe you load the bar full of BB's. The object is to increase the mass of the bar to dampen vibration. Just a few in there wouldn't do much for you. Others have suggested little bit larger size of buckshot. You won't have the issue of the buckshot getting into the signal switch area that Dudley mentions like the BB's can.

 

[Tom in NM]

My understanding was . . .

. . . the BBs in the handlebars work like those "dead-weight hammers". The kind that when you pound something, the hammer does not bounce back or recoil. [A blackjack works on the same principle.] The hammers have shot or BBs loosely packed in them and the blow or vibration is absorbed and redirected by the BBs striking each other. Overall, they end up dissipating and canceling the kinetic energy.

So given that, they should fill the space, but have enough room to move or shift around. They should not be packed solid, otherwise you might as well fill the handle bar with solder. If you use too few, they will not be as effective at dissipating the vibrations. My guess would be something around 3/4 full - or probably as many as you can easily push through the little hole.

That is my understanding and guess.

Tom

 

[NancysToy]

. . . So given that, they should fill the space, but have enough room to move or shift around. They should not be packed solid, otherwise you might as well fill the handle bar with solder. If you use too few, they will not be as effective at dissipating the vibrations. My guess would be something around 3/4 full - or probably as many as you can easily push through the little hole. . .

:joke:Spyder owner to dealer; "Say, what's that strange rattling sound I hear every time I hit a bump?"

Dealer to owner; "I don't know, maybe you lost your marbles when you filled the handlebars with BBs.":joke:
-Scotty

 

[Tom in NM]

Huh???????????

:joke:Spyder owner to dealer; "Say, what's that strange rattling sound I hear every time I hit a bump?"

Dealer to owner; "I don't know, maybe you lost your marbles when you filled the handlebars with BBs.":joke:
-Scotty

You mean I once HAD marbles?!?!?!?!?

 

[BRPjunkie]

It takes about 3,000 to fill the bars. Pack of 4,000 cost $5 at Walmart and used about 3/4 of them. Dudley used two packs of 1,500 so our results are the same. Just remove one end plug, turn the bars to full lock, pour them in until they run all the way through the bar and start to back up. Replace the plug, turn the bars full lock the other way and do the same. You may have to do this twice to get the bars full. Check when they start to reach the end so you leave enough room to get the plug back in. No rattle at all.

 

[Putt-Putt]

What about just melting some lead & put it in the bars? Might work in the MN bar risers.

 

[bone crusher]

What about just melting some lead & put it in the bars? Might work in the MN bar risers.

Melting lead? I hope you don't recommend breathing in the fumes as you do that...:yikes:

I think the NMN's risers alone help to cut some of the vibration...I also found the TM to help as well...

As far as the bbs go, I'd make too great of a mess so I'll avoid that method....

 

[Tom in NM]

What about just melting some lead & put it in the bars? Might work in the MN bar risers.

I just did NMN risers AND the BBs. Like Atadude says, "make two changes at the same time & you will never know which one made the most difference." ( or something like that )

Anyway, since I had everything apart, I filled the remaining portion of the original bars with BBs and the small hollow end sections of the riser bars too.

I didn't have any real problem with vibrations before doing the risers, but I think the BBs or the risers made a difference. My impression is that it is much smoother.

I guess you could melt down some lead into small pellets ( like line sinkers ), but if I did that, the supplies and attendant medical bills would far outstrip the cost of the BBs.

If it helps, the hole in the handlebars is an oval. It starts at 6 1/2 "s from the end of the bar and ends at 7". It is 1/4" at its widest point. I am guessing, but I think it is at about the 9 or 10 o'clock position when you look at the end of the bar. See attached picture. There is an internal tab or stub for the right and left control modules that seat in this hole to keep the units in place and properly oriented. Also, I noticed there is a small round hole near the end of the right handle bar, but it is too small for BBs.

Before doing the risers, I was going to either line the inside of the bar with a tube of screen material. After taking off the control modules, I think you could just put a band of thin fabric around the bar there, too. With the risers, the holes are eliminated.

I did not, but in thinking about it, I wish I had done the cork or used some wadding on the ends of the bars before I sealed them up, like Retread mentioned. That would make for a more "controlled" removal at some point in the future.

The NMN riser bars are mostly solid, not much space for BBs, probably less than 2"s of space.

The BBs were easy and will dampen vibrations in the handlebars.

Tom