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Belt tension
- Thread starter Brogers57
- Start date
BajaRon
Well-known member
I do not think there is necessarily a correlation. I believe the frequency goes up or down with tension (lower tension, lower frequency). Kind of like a guitar string. But I don't think there is a prescription for where the vibration occurs. Or how to move it up or down the MPH scale.
As mentioned, experimentation can be a real pain. That is the beauty of belt tensioner. Though they aren't always the magic bullet everyone is hoping for. They are pretty universally a good place to start as long as your belt is within spec.
GearHd
New member
Mine was at 180 on the Krikit and then I bumped it up to 220 right before l brought it in for a laser alignment. I thought I was doing the right thing by bringing it into the 1050N spec prior to the laser alignment. I guess I should have just left it. I haven't noticed any vibrations though.
fjray
New member
as I understand it the krikit is supposed to be positioned in the middle between the pulleys. My big paws don't allow me to get in the middle so do you folks remove plastic or just get as close as you can. This process doesn't seem to be rocket science but I'm tired of chasing belt vibes so would like to get it close. I'm showing the same reading on the bottom run as on top. Is it bad form to do the measurements from the bottom??? With the wheel off the ground it seems it ought to be equal. Last question is should the tension be set with the smooth spyder set or not????
BajaRon
Well-known member
It's easier to push down than it is to push up. The belt tension should be identical with the wheel lifted. The easier the process the more likely to get an accurate reading. But if you're getting the same reading several times that means you're fine.
BajaRon
Well-known member
It is better to stay at the middle or lower settings on the older Spyders. (2008-2012). The output shaft bearing didn't like high belt tension and you don't want to have problems there. With BRP upping the belt tension on the 2013+ machines I can only assume that they did something to beef up the output shaft situation so not as much worry on those machines.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
SmoothSpyder should be off the belt.
fjray
New member
I have the machine 4' in the air on a lift table so it's easy to push up on the bottom run. In the morning I'm going for mid range with the krikit and adjust the smooth spyder with with a passenger on board.
GeorgiaBill
New member
Rear tire off the ground for me
My tension was at 180 pounds when I started the install. I was reluctant to change 2 things at the same time, but will probably dial it back a little. I'm a little nervous about doing this, but there's plenty of help on this forum.
-Bill
My tension was at 180 pounds when I started the install. I was reluctant to change 2 things at the same time, but will probably dial it back a little. I'm a little nervous about doing this, but there's plenty of help on this forum.
-Bill
GeorgiaBill
New member
Come on over, Brian
However, I was kinda planning on using your expertise for additional guidance, so we can experiment together. I am not yet adept enough to make the adjustment without removing the belt guard, but I'm going to try.
Saturday morning works for me.
Looks like we have a few days without rain in the forecast. I'm planning to go to Highlands, NC tomorrow and then to Cherokee and ride some on on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
-Bill
However, I was kinda planning on using your expertise for additional guidance, so we can experiment together. I am not yet adept enough to make the adjustment without removing the belt guard, but I'm going to try.
Saturday morning works for me.
Looks like we have a few days without rain in the forecast. I'm planning to go to Highlands, NC tomorrow and then to Cherokee and ride some on on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
-Bill
BajaRon
Well-known member
If you like the results at 180 (Wheel on the Ground) I would leave it there. BRP reduced the tension specs. a great deal on the 2008-2012 models. I suggest running towards the middle of the specs. as a rule of thumb. But even 190 (Wheel on the Ground) is not bad. Certainly not worth the effort to adjust if it's working well for you.
GeorgiaBill
New member
Tension at 180#
Thanks, Ron, my 180# reading before installing the SmoothSpyder was with the rear tire off the ground.
PS - got my filter in the mailbox yesterday - Thank you.
-Bill
Thanks, Ron, my 180# reading before installing the SmoothSpyder was with the rear tire off the ground.
PS - got my filter in the mailbox yesterday - Thank you.
-Bill
GeorgiaBill
New member
Link to Helpful Hints
I almost forgot about this, but I accumulated several links to SL threads and put them into Evernote so I could access them any time. Probably lots of repetition here, but they should be helpful to someone.
Thanks to all of you whose words I am pasting below.
-Bill
Belt Tension Adjustment Video - British/Australian
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...he-Krikit-what-should-it-read&highlight=1200n
Good Thread with copy of TST, plus FINLESS suggests the lower readings to reduce bearing failures caused by too much tension
UPDATE : BRP put out a TST (Technical Service Tips) bulletin in June 2015 to all dealers that revises the specs for all Spyders for belt tension. I am fortunate to have a good dealer that provided me with a copy of this bulletin as I do my own minor repairs and adjustments on my Spyder. Here is what that TST recommended :
2008-2012 Models GS/RS/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 270 N +/- 100
2013-2015 Models RS/ST/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 630 N +/- 100
2015 Model F3 > Recommended Belt Tension > 300 N +/- 100
Now since your Krikit II measures only in pounds (lbs) and not Newtons (N) like the Gates Sonic Tension Meter that the dealers use, you need to know the conversion, which is :
Newtons (N) x 0.2248 = Pounds (lbs)
Pounds (lbs) x 4.4482 = Newtons (N)
The first conversion above is what you will use for the Krikit. So for example, on your 2010 RT, the recommended belt tension is 270 N x 0.2248 = 47.208 lbs tension ideal, or 170 N x 0.2248 = 38 lbs minimum tension, or 370 N x 0.2248 = 83 lbs maximum tension. You will probably never get it spot on, but as long as you are in the range between min 38 lbs and max 83 lbs, you will be ok. Also, very important, as per the BRP Shop Manual, these readings are to be taken with the back wheel OFF the ground, at room temperature, and measured on the position of the belt in line with the bolt for the passenger floorboard or as close as possible thereto.
My 2015 Spyder RT Limited had an initial spec for belt tension of 1050 N +/- 100. I always felt some vibration at certain speeds/rpms and was starting to learn to accept and live with them. Now with the revised spec that I changed to, the 630 N +/- 100, there is hardly any vibration at all speeds, as I have tested the machine up to 100 mi/hr (briefly & safely of course). You should know that you will never get rid of all vibrations because it is the nature of the machine, with the long drive belt, but if you go with these revised specs put out by BRP, you can reduce the vibrations substantially and see an improvement like I did. I am sure BRP must have listened to all the complaints about belt vibration to warrant putting out this bulletin to all dealers.
REVISED TST Tension
530N 630N 730N --- 119.144# 141.624# 164.104#
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?5162-belt-tension
April 2008 -
Do the following in order:
1. Loosen axle nut (large nut on right side of swing arm)
2. Turn adjustment screws on rear of swing arms to adjust belt tension
3. Turn adjustment screw on rear of right swing arm to set belt alignment
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until both are properly set
5. Tighten the axle nut to lock the rear wheel in place
A properly tensioned belt will deflect about 7/8 inch with ten pounds of pressure in the middle. When adjusting tension, turn both the adjustment screws the same amount. For example, turn BOTH screws (left and right swingarms) 1/4 turn then check tension, repeat if necessary.
IMPORTANT!!!!
Make small adjustments and check tension often; the consequences of improper tension can be dire (stripped drive belt, destroyed wheel bearings, etc.)!
To set belt alignment you must turn only one adjustment screw. If you adjust only the RIGHT side, you have less chance of affecting the belt tension. If you can, jack your Spyder's rear wheel off the ground, start her up, place the transmission in third and ease the clutch out. This allows the rear wheel to spin while the engine idles.
CAUTION!!!!!
Make sure the front wheels are securely chocked to prevent the Spyder from rolling off the jack! Best case if she rolls off the jack: the engine stalls when the spinning rear wheel hits the ground, worst case: use your imagination!
Make small adjustments of the right-side adjustment screw while watching the gap between the belt and the drive sprocket internal flange. The Operator's Guide calls for 1mm clearance.
If you can't jack the rear wheel you must make a small adjustment on the screw, tighten the axle nut, drive her a bit then check the belt alignment -- bit of a pain in the @ss really...
Once you have the alignment set, recheck the tension. If the tension is off, make small adjustments of BOTH screws.
It's an iterative process -- continue adjusting both tension and alignment until you have them both properly set.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...elt-tension&highlight=belt+tension+adjustment
I had to adjust a couple in SITS this past weekend. Both bikes were tracking right up against the inner edge of the rear sprocket. No gap at all. One of them was so bad I added 1 1/2 turns on the right and had to take 1/2 turn off on the left to even get it to move off of the shoulder of the sprocket. Even then it was barely 1mm off and could have went more.
FYI: Most of you know this, but we had a few at the Smokies that didn't know what to look for on their belts.
1. Make sure when looking that you have been moving forward and not backed up any at all. (backing up will temporarily change the alignment)
2. Looking at the back sprocket you should have 1-5 mm of play off of the inside rear sprocket. (this is between a playing card and a credit card)
3. The tension can be roughly checked by grasping the bottom on the belt at the mid-point and twisting. You should be able to twist it to 45 degrees and not all the way to 90 degrees. (obviously this is not "dealership" specs, but it will do in a pinch) Also, you can grasp your belt in that spot very soon after a dealership adjustment to get a "feel" of how much tension it should have. (provided it has been done correctly.
I almost forgot about this, but I accumulated several links to SL threads and put them into Evernote so I could access them any time. Probably lots of repetition here, but they should be helpful to someone.
Thanks to all of you whose words I am pasting below.
-Bill
Belt Tension Adjustment Video - British/Australian
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...he-Krikit-what-should-it-read&highlight=1200n
Good Thread with copy of TST, plus FINLESS suggests the lower readings to reduce bearing failures caused by too much tension
UPDATE : BRP put out a TST (Technical Service Tips) bulletin in June 2015 to all dealers that revises the specs for all Spyders for belt tension. I am fortunate to have a good dealer that provided me with a copy of this bulletin as I do my own minor repairs and adjustments on my Spyder. Here is what that TST recommended :
2008-2012 Models GS/RS/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 270 N +/- 100
2013-2015 Models RS/ST/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 630 N +/- 100
2015 Model F3 > Recommended Belt Tension > 300 N +/- 100
Now since your Krikit II measures only in pounds (lbs) and not Newtons (N) like the Gates Sonic Tension Meter that the dealers use, you need to know the conversion, which is :
Newtons (N) x 0.2248 = Pounds (lbs)
Pounds (lbs) x 4.4482 = Newtons (N)
The first conversion above is what you will use for the Krikit. So for example, on your 2010 RT, the recommended belt tension is 270 N x 0.2248 = 47.208 lbs tension ideal, or 170 N x 0.2248 = 38 lbs minimum tension, or 370 N x 0.2248 = 83 lbs maximum tension. You will probably never get it spot on, but as long as you are in the range between min 38 lbs and max 83 lbs, you will be ok. Also, very important, as per the BRP Shop Manual, these readings are to be taken with the back wheel OFF the ground, at room temperature, and measured on the position of the belt in line with the bolt for the passenger floorboard or as close as possible thereto.
My 2015 Spyder RT Limited had an initial spec for belt tension of 1050 N +/- 100. I always felt some vibration at certain speeds/rpms and was starting to learn to accept and live with them. Now with the revised spec that I changed to, the 630 N +/- 100, there is hardly any vibration at all speeds, as I have tested the machine up to 100 mi/hr (briefly & safely of course). You should know that you will never get rid of all vibrations because it is the nature of the machine, with the long drive belt, but if you go with these revised specs put out by BRP, you can reduce the vibrations substantially and see an improvement like I did. I am sure BRP must have listened to all the complaints about belt vibration to warrant putting out this bulletin to all dealers.
REVISED TST Tension
530N 630N 730N --- 119.144# 141.624# 164.104#
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?5162-belt-tension
April 2008 -
Do the following in order:
1. Loosen axle nut (large nut on right side of swing arm)
2. Turn adjustment screws on rear of swing arms to adjust belt tension
3. Turn adjustment screw on rear of right swing arm to set belt alignment
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until both are properly set
5. Tighten the axle nut to lock the rear wheel in place
A properly tensioned belt will deflect about 7/8 inch with ten pounds of pressure in the middle. When adjusting tension, turn both the adjustment screws the same amount. For example, turn BOTH screws (left and right swingarms) 1/4 turn then check tension, repeat if necessary.
IMPORTANT!!!!
Make small adjustments and check tension often; the consequences of improper tension can be dire (stripped drive belt, destroyed wheel bearings, etc.)!
To set belt alignment you must turn only one adjustment screw. If you adjust only the RIGHT side, you have less chance of affecting the belt tension. If you can, jack your Spyder's rear wheel off the ground, start her up, place the transmission in third and ease the clutch out. This allows the rear wheel to spin while the engine idles.
CAUTION!!!!!
Make sure the front wheels are securely chocked to prevent the Spyder from rolling off the jack! Best case if she rolls off the jack: the engine stalls when the spinning rear wheel hits the ground, worst case: use your imagination!
Make small adjustments of the right-side adjustment screw while watching the gap between the belt and the drive sprocket internal flange. The Operator's Guide calls for 1mm clearance.
If you can't jack the rear wheel you must make a small adjustment on the screw, tighten the axle nut, drive her a bit then check the belt alignment -- bit of a pain in the @ss really...
Once you have the alignment set, recheck the tension. If the tension is off, make small adjustments of BOTH screws.
It's an iterative process -- continue adjusting both tension and alignment until you have them both properly set.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...elt-tension&highlight=belt+tension+adjustment
I had to adjust a couple in SITS this past weekend. Both bikes were tracking right up against the inner edge of the rear sprocket. No gap at all. One of them was so bad I added 1 1/2 turns on the right and had to take 1/2 turn off on the left to even get it to move off of the shoulder of the sprocket. Even then it was barely 1mm off and could have went more.
FYI: Most of you know this, but we had a few at the Smokies that didn't know what to look for on their belts.
1. Make sure when looking that you have been moving forward and not backed up any at all. (backing up will temporarily change the alignment)
2. Looking at the back sprocket you should have 1-5 mm of play off of the inside rear sprocket. (this is between a playing card and a credit card)
3. The tension can be roughly checked by grasping the bottom on the belt at the mid-point and twisting. You should be able to twist it to 45 degrees and not all the way to 90 degrees. (obviously this is not "dealership" specs, but it will do in a pinch) Also, you can grasp your belt in that spot very soon after a dealership adjustment to get a "feel" of how much tension it should have. (provided it has been done correctly.
M109Dreamer
Active member
Ok, so I'm more confused now more than ever. We have a 2011 RTS. From the last I looked up the tension for our Spyder here it was 100lbs. So has it changed again?
If so, can someone post or PM me the new requirement please. If you have the #'s for off the ground and on the ground that would be great.
And if the tension has been lowered even more, below 100 lbs. How are you using Kirkit II? It starts at 100 lbs?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
If so, can someone post or PM me the new requirement please. If you have the #'s for off the ground and on the ground that would be great.
And if the tension has been lowered even more, below 100 lbs. How are you using Kirkit II? It starts at 100 lbs?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
GearHd
New member
You have definitely loosened that right adjuster a lot. I would tighten both adjusters until they just touch the swing arm again. Then I'd check belt tension. To correct your belt you either need to tighten the belt side adjuster or loosen the brake side adjuster. I have found that when you loosen adjusters you need to tap the axle forward, I use a block of wood against the axle then tap with a hammer.
Brogers57
New member
Thanks. I will try this! I could get the tension spot in but as soon as I tightened that axel it was all she wrote!
Just to make sure I understand this. If I need to loosen the tension it's turning the left hand bolt anti clockwise and then I should also have to turn the right belt bolt anti clockwise? Also, should I get my tension correct first before messing with the belt bolt?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just to make sure I understand this. If I need to loosen the tension it's turning the left hand bolt anti clockwise and then I should also have to turn the right belt bolt anti clockwise? Also, should I get my tension correct first before messing with the belt bolt?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
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