Bought a Primo 6x12 trailer today.

[Snoking1127]

So today I bought 6.x12 foot Primo aluminum trailer for hauling the Spyder between Arizona and Washington State. I wanted the model with the enclosed sides, however they did not have one in stock. I will enclose myself at sum point most likely. Dry weight of the trailer is 600 lbs and GVWR is 2990 lbs with 3500 torsion axle and 15" radial tires and mag wheels. I settled for a steel rim spare tire. Arizona to my surprise for $172 is providing a life time registration/license plate. I well have to work out some blockage or pre ramps to load the Spyder as the bi-fold ramp is not long enough. We did a test on a 6x10 with some 2x6's and cranking the tongue up. I ordered this 60"L x 24.5"D x 20.5"H chest box to go in front the Spyder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MK4F6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am also looking to put one of those angled A-Frame boxes on the front frame. Going to work on raising the spare tire up a bit first. It is pretty low to the ground.

I also ordered these tie downs for the front wheels and may do that for the rear tire also.https://www.lowes.com/pd/Erickson-Wheel-Chock-and-Strap-Kit/1002696212

I will provide "build" pictures as I go along. Chris

 

[Snoking1127]

PRIMO TRAILERS

6 X 12 Utility Trailers
Torsion Sure Lube Axle - Best suspension on the market - 5 year warranty from manufacturer

TIG Welded Frame Is Better Than MIG Welding - Less heat and cleaner welds - easy maintenance & prevents rust

Stainless Steel Hardware - Used wherever possible! Primo uses the most stainless steel fasteners of any aluminum utility trailer on the market.

Radial 15" Tires - Radials are proven to last longer and provide for a safer ride.

Aluminum Mag Wheels - Aluminum mags will not rust & look awesome!

All Recessed L.E.D Lights - Last longer & will not break as easy as standard lights especially when they are protected inside the frame.

Tubular A-Frame Tongue - Tongue is much stronger and allows wiring to be inside enclosed tube frame

Swing Up Roller Jack - makes it easy for you to maneuver your light weight trailer around the driveway and store when ready to travel.

Bi-Fold Gate - Lower profile gate for less wind resistance and allows for Kayak/Canoe carrying across the top of the trailer.

Stainless Steel ADJUSTABLE ramp clamp - Makes our PRIMO bi-fold ramp tight and secure so it does not rattle. Can be adjusted over the years to tighten.

Aluminum Extruded Decking Standard - Lighter and lasts virtually forever. Won't rot like wood will. Plus just looks a lot better.

PRIMO designed for the consumer - if you bend or dent a fender, side kit or ramp you can easily replace with simple tools (don't need to bring to welder).

SPECIFICATIONS:

Deck Length: 12'

Deck Width: 6'

Solid side height: NONE, 16" or 24"

Rail height: 12" , 18" or 26"

G.V.W.R: 2990LBS

Suspension: 3500 lbs Torsion Axle

Tires: ST205/75R15 DOT

Coupler Rating: 2" 3,500lbs

Net Payload: 2340-2390lbs

Wheels; 15" - 5 Lug Bolt Pattern

Enclosed L.E.D Lighting System: DOT Approved

Frame: 3"x3" Tube Framing

Chrome Lug Nuts

Stainless Safety Chains: 24"

Stainless Steel Hardware

 

[Bfromla]

Sounds good:thumbup: looking forward to pics when get all set up.

 

[Hoginedgewood]

Drop/raise hitch?

 

[always young]

So today I bought 6.x12 foot Primo aluminum trailer for hauling the Spyder between Arizona and Washington State. I wanted the model with the enclosed sides, however they did not have one in stock. I will enclose myself at sum point most likely. Dry weight of the trailer is 600 lbs and GVWR is 2990 lbs with 3500 torsion axle and 15" radial tires and mag wheels. I settled for a steel rim spare tire. Arizona to my surprise for $172 is providing a life time registration/license plate. I well have to work out some blockage or pre ramps to load the Spyder as the bi-fold ramp is not long enough. We did a test on a 6x10 with some 2x6's and cranking the tongue up. I ordered this 60"L x 24.5"D x 20.5"H chest box to go in front the Spyder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MK4F6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am also looking to put one of those angled A-Frame boxes on the front frame. Going to work on raising the spare tire up a bit first. It is pretty low to the ground.

I also ordered these tie downs for the front wheels and may do that for the rear tire also.https://www.lowes.com/pd/Erickson-Wheel-Chock-and-Strap-Kit/1002696212

I will provide "build" pictures as I go along. Chris

Snoking, you will find that you don't need (can't use) the rear set of chocks for the front wheels. I have the same setup. I removed the rear chocks and just used flat E tracks instead. I found that once you ride up over the first chock down to between the two, you will be damned to be able to back out over the rear one. You just can't get enough traction to get up over it. The flat E-track on the backside of the wheel works just fine. Did a 2000 mile trip with occasional bumpy roads and nothing ever moved or loosened up. Enjoy your new trailer.

 

[EdMat]

Snoking, you will find that you don't need (can't use) the rear set of chocks for the front wheels. I have the same setup. I removed the rear chocks and just used flat E tracks instead. I found that once you ride up over the first chock down to between the two, you will be damned to be able to back out over the rear one. You just can't get enough traction to get up over it. The flat E-track on the backside of the wheel works just fine. Did a 2000 mile trip with occasional bumpy roads and nothing ever moved or loosened up. Enjoy your new trailer.

Looks like you could cut the chock part off the rear and just use the strap attachment part and it would work. Might have to put a plate over the cut off part to prevent cutting a tire.

 

[canamjhb]

Chris,

I bought a Primo 6X10 trailer last month. I used it to haul my Goldwing trike to Kerrville, TX and back. I. too, had a problem loading with the 4 foot bi-fold ramp. I just got 2 five foot long 2X10s, screwed a fastener in one end so it protruded down between the gate slats. I place the cheater ramps about half way up the trailer ramp. The fastener keeps the ramps from sliding out when loading and unloading. with the Spyder, you will not need a third cheater ramp for the rear wheel. I previously rented a 6X10 trailer with a 4 foot ramp and used this same method to load my Spyder RTL with no problems. And it had a bump-skid which made the front lower.

I think you will be happy with the Primo. I know I am. The great suspension and big 15 inch wheels make it track like it's on rails. One thing I'm going to do is reduce tire air pressure. My trailer weighs 550#s and my Wing is about 1,200#s so my total load is well under 2,000. I ran 50 psi to Texas and back and I think it was too much. I'm going to lower them to 40 when I do a shorter haul next time and see how that does. Good luck and I'm anxious to see pictures when you get er' done..... Jim


BTW, I'm from Washington also

 

[Snoking1127]

OK, had to take the spare tire off via the mount and haul it to the dealer. The guy putting it together yesterday used an impact driver tightening the spare lug nuts onto the SS bolts. SS is a soft medal and galls easily. All third were toast, and they replaced them and coated them with anti-seize.

So with the mount they provide for the spare, it was only 5.5" about the ground, so I spent most to the rest of the day raising the tire higher. I found a 5/8" x 10" x10" aluminum plate at a recycle yard for 10 bucks. I cut it in half and drill the mounting holes for 1/2" SS bolts. Cut the left over half down to be a plate on the other side of the 3"x3" frame rail. Drill the four matching holes in the up end of the first plate to bolt the mount to. One of the bolts galled on be, so I will have to get another tomorrow. I have not measured it in the new location, it was raised 4+" and has lots of clearance to the ground now. Chris

 

[Snoking1127]

Chris,

I bought a Primo 6X10 trailer last month. I used it to haul my Goldwing trike to Kerrville, TX and back. I. too, had a problem loading with the 4 foot bi-fold ramp. I just got 2 five foot long 2X10s, screwed a fastener in one end so it protruded down between the gate slats. I place the cheater ramps about half way up the trailer ramp. The fastener keeps the ramps from sliding out when loading and unloading. with the Spyder, you will not need a third cheater ramp for the rear wheel. I previously rented a 6X10 trailer with a 4 foot ramp and used this same method to load my Spyder RTL with no problems. And it had a bump-skid which made the front lower.

I think you will be happy with the Primo. I know I am. The great suspension and big 15 inch wheels make it track like it's on rails. One thing I'm going to do is reduce tire air pressure. My trailer weighs 550#s and my Wing is about 1,200#s so my total load is well under 2,000. I ran 50 psi to Texas and back and I think it was too much. I'm going to lower them to 40 when I do a shorter haul next time and see how that does. Good luck and I'm anxious to see pictures when you get er' done..... Jim


BTW, I'm from Washington also

There is a spyder shift lever that hangs down can get hung up and damaged as one cross the breakover at the top of the ramp.
We are at Lake Connor Park Membership park normally in the summer months and winter at Canyon Vistas RV Resort in Gold Canyon.

Yes, I am going to address air pressure to the actual weight plus 5 PSI. With the stuff I will be haul in the boxes on the trailer I think I will run 35 PSI.

Here is the inflation table:

ST205/75R15
Single Tire
1220 lbs @25PSI
1360 lbs @30PSI
1480 lbs (B) @35PSI
1610 lbs @40PSI
1720 lbs @45PSI
1820 lbs (C) @50PSI
1940 lbs @55PSI
2040 lbs @60PSI
2150 lbs (D) @65PSI

 

[Snoking1127]

Snoking, you will find that you don't need (can't use) the rear set of chocks for the front wheels. I have the same setup. I removed the rear chocks and just used flat E tracks instead. I found that once you ride up over the first chock down to between the two, you will be damned to be able to back out over the rear one. You just can't get enough traction to get up over it. The flat E-track on the backside of the wheel works just fine. Did a 2000 mile trip with occasional bumpy roads and nothing ever moved or loosened up. Enjoy your new trailer.

Thanks for the heads up! That solves two issues, as I understand that the 2020+ have a slightly longer wheel base. So just having the E-track will allow for the difference in wheel base. Do you have pictures? It sounds like the car trick. Put a 2x4 it front of each tire and the car will not claim over them. Chris

 

[Bfromla]

OK, had to take the spare tire off via the mount and haul it to the dealer. The guy putting it together yesterday used an impact driver tightening the spare lug nuts onto the SS bolts. SS is a soft medal and galls easily. All third were toast, and they replaced them and coated them with anti-seize.

So with the mount they provide for the spare, it was only 5.5" about the ground, so I spent most to the rest of the day raising the tire higher. I found a 5/8" x 10" x10" aluminum plate at a recycle yard for 10 bucks. I cut it in half and drill the mounting holes for 1/2" SS bolts. Cut the left over half down to be a plate on the other side of the 3"x3" frame rail. Drill the four matching holes in the up end of the first plate to bolt the mount to. One of the bolts galled on be, so I will have to get another tomorrow. I have not measured it in the new location, it was raised 4+" and has lots of clearance to the ground now. Chris

Problem mounting to that upper rail instead ?:dontknow:

 

[Snoking1127]

Based on 'always Young's' input I ordered these two items for the read wheel. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C2AWHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: Do NOT order this cheap ill fitting E-track. The accessories are quite loose when snapped in place. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO9QO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Snoking1127]

One of the things I have been thinking about is which way to have the lid on the diamond plate box at the front on the trailers bed open? Seems that it would be easier to load and unload it the latches were to the front of the trailer and the lid hinge to the rear. If I was careful in where I drilled the holes to bolt it down to the trailer floor making them symmetrical then it could easily be turned around the other direction. Chris

 

[canamjhb]

Chris, when I mounted a wheel chalk for my bike I was careful to drill the holes BETWEEN the hat sections of the trailer floor. Then I used a 1 inch by 1 inch by 18 inches long L shaped aluminum piece under the trailer to provide good support for the bolts. Solid as a rock.

Rode by Canyon Vistas last Sunday on the way to Mammoth for lunch. Came home via Winkelman (new bridge is finished and open), Globe and Superior. I'm in Fountain of the Sun in East Mesa. Watching your project with interest..... Jim

 

[Snoking1127]

Problem mounting to that upper rail instead ?:dontknow:

The upper rail around the trailers bed floor is no where near strong enough to handle the weight of the spare.

 

[Snoking1127]

Chris, when I mounted a wheel chalk for my bike I was careful to drill the holes BETWEEN the hat sections of the trailer floor. Then I used a 1 inch by 1 inch by 18 inches long L shaped aluminum piece under the trailer to provide good support for the bolts. Solid as a rock...... Jim

Yes I noticed that the bed tie downs have a piece of square tubing that spans the top hats under the bed to distribute the load.

 

[always young]

Snorking, here's a link (?) to what I had posted on an earlier thread. It has pictures of my setup, although upside-down. Not sure how to add a link but you should be able to search for it.

Thread: Aluma 638 trailer, where to place tie down points?
by always young
Replies
8
Views
460
I'll add my experience to this conversation. Last...

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...o-place-tie-down-points&p=1573166#post1573166

Mod Edit: Link added - post #6
Ps: All it takes to add a link is to copy & paste the browser address line. :thumbup:

 

[Eviltwin]

I have an Aluma and set it up to haul the RT among other things. I had 2 stainless chocks made at a local shop for less than 100 and bolted them down once I figured out the position for best tongue weight. The ones you have selected will work, but I like these since it is pretty easy to drive into them and they do most of the work holding the bike on the trailer. I use some straps through the front A arms to tie downs and one strap on the rear wheel to keep the bike from lifting up in a panic stop.

 

[Snoking1127]

OK, the diamond plate box(60 x 24.5 x 20.5) arrived today and I got it installed. I put a 1/4" blue exercise mat between the trailer bed and the box. I have 10' front the box to the ramp. I am going to try to position the spyder so the frunk can be opened. Front wheel strap downs got delayed from Lowes until next Friday. Good price with military vet discount. May work on another box on the tongue in the mean time. Little tricky bolting things down without help, will recruit help for the trike tie downs. Chris

Opens to front of trailer:

Hold down bolts

Underside:

Beer time:

 

[Peter Aawen]

It's all looking pretty good! hyea:

Just a word of caution tho - be a little wary of putting too much weight forward of the trailer axle &/or on the drawbar, cos that WILL increase the download on the tow tongue/hitch, possibly beyond what is good for safe towing when the trailer is loaded (10-15% tongue weight MAX is what's recommended by many) - besides, there will very likely be times you need to tow the trailer empty, so all that extra weight on the drawbar transfers directly onto the hitch, making the tongue weight exceed the towed weight in a way that could well make towing downright dangerous!! :shocked:

So just sayin' - keep that Maximum tongue weight in mind while you're planning on increasing the drawbar load/ static weight in front of the trailer axle! :thumbup: