Check transmission light comes on - any ideas to help?

[Philrs]

2010 rs se5 hasn't been on the road since 2014. Bought from a dealer who only sells totaled by insurance.

Ok. So I fixed a bunch of issues. Changed the oil and when checked warm it was right on the full line. Almost 400 miles and my check transmission light now comes on intermitently. It seems like it is coming on more often, sometimes for a couple miles, but usually only on for a min or so. Hasn't gone into limp mode since I changed all the fluids.

This trip it didn't want to shift to R or back to N without a few tries. So I took it for a ride to the store, at operating temp. Checked the oil and it's in the xxx marked area but over the full line.

Not sure if it's associated, but I found 2 drops of fluid on the right side, right before the fan on the ground effect plastic. Could not find where it came from.

Suggestions..

Should I remove some oil? Or check it a different way?


Phil

 

[Chupaca]

Here's the thing....

Oil level is a tricky thing on the 998's. Check the level according to the manual, if you have one, or warm the engine up to operating temp then measure and you should be between the add and full marks. If not add or take out. This could be causing the not shifting issue. As for the trans light, this could be as simple as a more possitive shift or a bad gear positioning sensor. Don't know how much you have run it and could clear up with some use as you say it sat since 2014. :dontknow:

 

[Grandpot]

I'd look at the paddle shifter and the gear position sensor. The oil is probably OK, although if you look in the manual you will find a couple of places on the engine where you can check the oil pressure.

 

[kep-up]

I'll bet it downshifts OK with the nanny doing it. If so, Paddle shifter. Buy and install a new one. Not a big deal, just costly. but it'll shift when you want it to.

 

[Philrs]

I'll bet it downshifts OK with the nanny doing it. If so, Paddle shifter. Buy and install a new one. Not a big deal, just costly. but it'll shift when you want it to.

It does seem to downshift ok with the nanny..I also noticed the ck transmission comes on a lot after manual downshift, but not all the time


Phil

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Phil. So, what you already know is that the Check Transmission light is not really about the transmission itself, but it's about the Transmission Control Module not liking something about the shift. Let's remember that the Hydraulic Control Module - that thing that generates the oil pressure for shifting - has it's own oil pump and filter. Normal oil pressure for shifting is 175# pounds. Low oil level in the tank can cause hydraulic oil pressure to drop too low. Checking the engine oil pressure is not relevant. High oil level is not a problem as far as shifting goes.

So...you mentioned that you changed the oil - did you change the filters - Hydraulic Control Module filter specifically?

The most likely culprit in these cases is the Gear Box Position Sensor. Next time the Check Transmission fault comes in, look down at the gear position on the digital display and see if it is in the correct gear, is alternating between gear numbers, is lagging behind the shift, or is displaying an "E". Also, while the light is on, try to pull over and call up the codes. You might need nothing more that a Gear Box Position Sensor reset with BUDS or even just unplugging the sensor, spraying down the contacts with cleaner, letting it dry out and plugging it back in.

Try to get access to a dealer with BUDS. They can check the paddle shifter operation right on the screen as well as do the reset. Without narrowing this down, or having access to the proper test equipment, you could drop a lot of money into this without getting to the problem. You're focusing on an oil level that is just a little too high. It's not that.

By the way - fluid on the right hand side around the radiator is most likely coolant. Just a little out the overflow or more likely a hose clamp that needs tightened down. Some clamps you can't tighten. Others are the more common screw type that you just tighten down with a screwdriver.

 

[Philrs]

Ty snowbelt

A lot of great info..

Most of what you wrote makes a lot more sense now.
What you call the hydraulic control module filter...is what I think I called the second filter. I called it a transmission filter. So yes I changed out 2 filters.

Is there a way for me to call up codes on my spyder? Do I need a buds code reader?
Thanks
Phil

 

[kep-up]

MHO, after going through this same scenario twice, if the nanny shifts without fail but the paddle shifter is erratic, you may as well stop monkeying around and replace the paddle shifter. Because that's what you are going to end up doing anyway. save some time effort and money.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Refer to the next two posts by Billy on how to pull up Active codes on an RS.

There's an app for your phone called SpyderCodes that you can use then to look it up and see what the code means. However, for this noble cause of yours, it would benefit you to get a repair manual. Green Manuals - eBay - 20 bucks. I think this is the one for you but there are others out there as well. Everything you need to know is in one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-2009-...ual-/261542233836?vxp=mtr&hash=item3ce521c6ec

Your issues could very well be the paddle shifter - nobody is saying that it's not - but some more information and references will help you troubleshoot better and narrow it down with less guess work.

 

[billybovine]

Fault code recall for 2010 RS

The following is the fault recall procedure for a 2010 RS. This will only work for active faults.

 

[billybovine]

Fault recall continued

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Sorry Phil. Thank you Billy. There was a little voice in my head that an RS was different. I should have listened. Removed bum dope from previous post.

 

[Huked]

MHO, after going through this same scenario twice, if the nanny shifts without fail but the paddle shifter is erratic, you may as well stop monkeying around and replace the paddle shifter. Because that's what you are going to end up doing anyway. save some time effort and money.

:agree: I had the same thing changed the shifter only cost like $140. Do your best to diagnose it first, but I didn't want to waste the money on the dealer :banghead:. I took a chance, as many have done and it is like new now :yes:. If oil looks good, gears are indicating the correct position and it is shifting down by itself with no problems, then just go with a shifter. I got mine from amazon, if you don't mark it up you can always return it if it doesn't fix your problem.

Switch code is P0826. There may be others , but if you get that the shifter should fix it.