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Clunk When putting into Gear - is it normal, or what?
- Thread starter Thopper
- Start date
JeffandLori
Member
Be sure you are putting it in neutral before you shut it off with the automatic shift. When you go to start it, it will shift to neutral and slam the starter engagement at the same time. I do not think this is good long term.
bushrat
New member
I believe you're going to find that Spyders are notorious for making a loud 'clunking' sound when first shifting into gear, either forward or reverse. My 2017 F3L was so noisy at first as to be scary; I kept thinking "What broke?" 12,000 miles later, it's still making the same shifting 'clunk' - just part of starting up. Let your machine warm up a bit before you move off; it won't be as loud. Ride more, worry less. BTW, I have never bothered about going to neutral when shutting off. On starting, the Spyder automatically puts itself in neutral. The 'clunk' comes not from turning over the starter, but when shifting into gear. When it's running, my 1330 engine almost sounds like a blender, or sewing machine, somewhat louder than I had expected, but just another trait to get used to.
Most folks seem to believe in buying extended warranty coverage; the biggest part of the debate seems to be more about cost than about having it. There are fairly wide fluctuations in price asked. All that said, the time to really be concerned about the amount you pay is BEFORE you sign the contract, NOT AFTER. Having made your purchase (whatever the cost) you should now only be out ryding, having fun. Get out on the road and enjoy what you spent, even if it was your last dollar. Enjoy the passing scenery. If you spend your time grudgingly regretting an extra $100 or $1000 you might have saved, you'll never really experience all the fun your Spyder can be. Ride now, and make up any lost difference on your next deal. Have fun, be safe, and welcome to the Spyder experience.
Most folks seem to believe in buying extended warranty coverage; the biggest part of the debate seems to be more about cost than about having it. There are fairly wide fluctuations in price asked. All that said, the time to really be concerned about the amount you pay is BEFORE you sign the contract, NOT AFTER. Having made your purchase (whatever the cost) you should now only be out ryding, having fun. Get out on the road and enjoy what you spent, even if it was your last dollar. Enjoy the passing scenery. If you spend your time grudgingly regretting an extra $100 or $1000 you might have saved, you'll never really experience all the fun your Spyder can be. Ride now, and make up any lost difference on your next deal. Have fun, be safe, and welcome to the Spyder experience.
Highwayman2013
New member
Completely normal. You will also find going from 1st to reverse or reverse to first there is no clunk.
AAbruzzese
New member
My wife and I are also newly enjoying the Spyder and it does have a few interesting quirks. The loud clunking, the shifting coach in EcoMode seems to want to put you in 5th gear at 40mph and shift at 3k rpm regardless.
I bought the service plan and the warranty on my 2018RTL SE6 and wound up with 325$ a month payment with zero down. So all in all I am really loving it and have put on 1000 miles in 3 weeks.
The next thing is to update the dash software as quite a few folks said it improves BRP connect and I installed a set of extension wires for the audio and usb connection to the front grill just under the mirror coupled that to a wireless bluetooth receiver and use my tablet as Gps and music player.
Just enjoy the ride ...
BajaRon
Well-known member
I've had a good number of motorcycles over the years. I agree with those who have already stated that every one of them will give you a good clunk. And some, a bit of a jerk when going from neutral to 1st gear (and the Spyder into reverse as well). Again, as already mentioned, it is just the normal function of a constant mesh transmission.
A normal transmission has a neutral between each gear where the gears are completely disengaged as well as synchronizers which ease the transition into the next gear. This makes for a very smooth and quiet shifting sequence. But a motorcycle is all about size and weight. All of that extra stuff in a normal transmission takes up too much room and adds a good deal of weight. Hence, the much lighter, more compact and more efficient constant mesh transmission is used.
In a constant mesh transmission the gears are always turning, even in neutral. So this spinning mass stops suddenly when you go from neutral to 1st gear. Also, there is much more drag on the clutch when disengaged than the virtually zero drag with a standard clutch setup in a car or truck. So you don't really have a true 'Neutral' like you would in a car or truck. All you need to do to confirm this is try to move your manual Spyder with it in gear and the clutch pulled in. Or try to coast down the highway with the clutch pulled in. You will experience a whole lot of drag.
The only time a motorcycle clutch and transmission is truly free is when shifted into the neutral position. This is what creates the clunk.
A normal transmission has a neutral between each gear where the gears are completely disengaged as well as synchronizers which ease the transition into the next gear. This makes for a very smooth and quiet shifting sequence. But a motorcycle is all about size and weight. All of that extra stuff in a normal transmission takes up too much room and adds a good deal of weight. Hence, the much lighter, more compact and more efficient constant mesh transmission is used.
In a constant mesh transmission the gears are always turning, even in neutral. So this spinning mass stops suddenly when you go from neutral to 1st gear. Also, there is much more drag on the clutch when disengaged than the virtually zero drag with a standard clutch setup in a car or truck. So you don't really have a true 'Neutral' like you would in a car or truck. All you need to do to confirm this is try to move your manual Spyder with it in gear and the clutch pulled in. Or try to coast down the highway with the clutch pulled in. You will experience a whole lot of drag.
The only time a motorcycle clutch and transmission is truly free is when shifted into the neutral position. This is what creates the clunk.
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Pirate looks at --
New member
"It's Just the Normal Noises in Here!"
billybovine
Active member
I am sorry but that simply is not true. The auto shift to neutral does not happen until the engine has started and reaches idle speed. So no extra load on the starter at all.
Chupaca
New member
There you have it....
As you can see from all the responses it is normal. The reason is that the transmission is not spinning when in neutral and the engine, once started, is spinning at Idle speed. When you frist shift to 1st or Reverse you have to put the spinning engine and the non-spinning transmission together getting that clunk.. this is different with the different engines and drive systems used. Big singles and twins seem to be more noticeable than the inlines with more cylinders. The only way to avoid this is to have a manual transmission and start it in gear then when you release the clutch engine and tranny will already be engaged....:thumbup:
As you can see from all the responses it is normal. The reason is that the transmission is not spinning when in neutral and the engine, once started, is spinning at Idle speed. When you frist shift to 1st or Reverse you have to put the spinning engine and the non-spinning transmission together getting that clunk.. this is different with the different engines and drive systems used. Big singles and twins seem to be more noticeable than the inlines with more cylinders. The only way to avoid this is to have a manual transmission and start it in gear then when you release the clutch engine and tranny will already be engaged....:thumbup:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
The CLUNK - Yep, what everyone else said ….. however, if it really, really upsets you or others … The warmer the engine is, I believe the less it will CLUNK …… at least that has been my observation..... Personally since the CLUNK isn't at all harmful, is it worth the time and Gas to diminish the CLUNK ….. Test out my theory and decide for yourself …… good luck …. Mike 
hyea:
hyea:
BajaRon
Well-known member
The CLUNK - Yep, what everyone else said ….. however, if it really, really upsets you or others … The warmer the engine is, I believe the less it will CLUNK …… at least that has been my observation..... Personally since the CLUNK isn't at all harmful, is it worth the time and Gas to diminish the CLUNK ….. Test out my theory and decide for yourself …… good luck …. Mike
The clunk is reduced when the oil is at operating temperature. But you're right. The clunk is designed in and does not hurt anything. It is akin to the problem some have with a high revving engine. If it's designed to do that then you're doing harm to run that engine at low RPM's.
I also agree that trying to warm the oil before riding in attempt to reduce the initial clunk is at least wasteful, if not down right detrimental. If your machine is happy, then you should be happy to! We all have quirks, even our Spyders. Just go with it!
hyea:
Heck, at my age I clunk when I swing my leg over the Spyder to get on it. Whether I'm warm or not.
:agree: :b2b:, but the soft tissue is shot. :cheers:
Motorcycles are kinda like helicopters. Some people refer to some of both as choppers. The standard safety briefing for a CH-47 (Chinook) includes a warning about hydraulic fluid on the rear ramp is a slip hazard when entering/exiting the aircraft, followed immediately by the crew chief saying, "And if there isn't any leaking onto the ramp, don't get on board. It means the bird is OUT of hydraulic fluid." If you stop hearing/feeling that clunk, don't try to ride it!
Easy Rider
New member
Mine does NOT do that.....at least not that I have noticed.
What exactly makes you think that anything gets "slammed" in that situation ??
It should make the clanking noise when shifting into a gear.....either 1st or Rev......just once or twice when COLD.
Mine usually does it only once.....but occasionally the shift from R to 1 is also a bit louder than normal.
And no I don't think an extended warranty is a mistake for THIS vehicle.
Repairs seem to be frequent and ongoing for a lot of owners.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
I get the "clunk" when going into gear on both :ani29:'s AND my 900 Vulcan.
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