Cruise Assist Question

[twoseas]

Hi there,

I wanted ask those who have the throttle cruise assist how they set the friction when already at cruising speed ? Do you reach accross with your left hand to hold the throttle while tightening on the friction nut ?

From viewing one of the manufacturers (Kaoko) website video, it states that the adjustment is made from a throttle roll on and once adjusted the speed can be regulated after that.

Just looking for people's opinions on this subject.

Thanks in advance,

Ray

 

[MouthPiece]

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

 

[jvicker]

AtaDude

Greatest,oldest post:2thumbs:

This works perfect for me. Not for the long haul but works great when you just need to relax the hand for second.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44887&postcount=51

 

[twoseas]

Greatest,oldest post:2thumbs:

This works perfect for me. Not for the long haul but works great when you just need to relax the hand for second.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44887&postcount=51

jvick, thanks for the link. The cruise assist discussed in that link is not quite the one I'm asking about.

I was asking about the unit that is sold by ESI; one of the website sponsors. The question is more about "operability" once at cruising speed if the friction nut wasn't engaged from a roll on.

Thanks,

Ray

 

[NancysToy]

We use Throttlemeister units, but the principle is the same. We actually seldom turn ours off, since I am used to throttle friction devices on my vintage bikes, where they were standard equipment, and we always turn the throttle off forcibly anyway. Nevertheless, when we want to engage or disengage on the road we slide our hand over the friction device, and twist the throttle. Obviously this works best when accelerating or decelerating...depending on whether you are setting the lock or turning it off. Lots easier to just set it before you leave and get used to turning the throttle off forcible each time, but not everyone would be comfortable with that technique.

 

[jvicker]

The question is more about "operability" once at cruising speed if the friction nut wasn't engaged from a roll on.



Good question. I'm thinking you'd have to quick roll off and roll back on with the assist. :dontknow:

 

[twoseas]

We use Throttlemeister units, but the principle is the same. We actually seldom turn ours off, since I am used to throttle friction devices on my vintage bikes, where they were standard equipment, and we always turn the throttle off forcibly anyway. Nevertheless, when we want to engage or disengage on the road we slide our hand over the friction device, and twist the throttle. Obviously this works best when accelerating or decelerating...depending on whether you are setting the lock or turning it off. Lots easier to just set it before you leave and get used to turning the throttle off forcible each time, but not everyone would be comfortable with that technique.

Nancy/Scotty,

Thanks for your feedback...that's the kind of real world experiences I'm looking for !

Ray

 

[NancysToy]

Nancy/Scotty,

Thanks for your feedback...that's the kind of real world experiences I'm looking for !

Ray

I have turned on the Throttlemeister while at cruising speed, but it is like juggling bowling pins with one hand tied behind your back. As you surmised, it is done by reaching over with the left hand. The ESI unit might be easier. The Throttlemeister is on the outside of your throttle hand, making for a very awkward operation. It is easier to think ahead and turn it on before you leave, or do it at roll-on.

 

[twoseas]

The question is more about "operability" once at cruising speed if the friction nut wasn't engaged from a roll on.



Good question. I'm thinking you'd have to quick roll off and roll back on with the assist. :dontknow:

That's probably one solution and another would be like the post by NancysToy; to keep the friction engaged.

Even though maybe not ideal, I would think that the left hand reaching over to hold throttle and tighten friction nut with right hand may work too.

I'm wondering if there are folks out there practicing this technique ?

Ray

 

[NancysToy]

One other technique that I have used when I have neglected to engage mine beforehand, is to pull in the clutch, then roll off the throttle, and roll back on holding the lock to engage it. With the clutch disengaged, you lose little speed this way. Obviously this technique doesn't work well in traffic, and won't work if you ride an SE.

 

[bikeguy]

I had a Throttlemeister on my BMW and I usually reached across with my left hand and set it. Like Scotty, I always forcibly released the throttle but I didn't like coming up through the gears with the extra friction. It seemed to make my shifts much more difficult. Maybe just a lack of skill on my part. Anyway, I waited until I was at cruising speed then set the Throttlemeister with my left hand, forcibly released the throttle when slowing down, then released the Throttlemeister with my right hand.

Cotton

 

[daveinva]

I just put my Throttlemeister on this weekend. Thanks to Irene I didn't have a lot of opportunity to play around with it, but I found the following:

-- Unlike Scotty, I'm not comfy with leaving it engaged, at least not yet. Maybe I'll get there.
-- My monkey arms aren't long enough to reach over with my left hand AND still keep good control on the bike.
-- I have a Crampbuster that makes it a little harder to do the "slide over to the end and use your pinky & ring finger to roll on the friction nut" deal.
-- Soooo, my technique is simple: I wait for a moment when I don't have much traffic in front and behind me, I speed up a bit, then roll off the throttle to coast, take my hand off the throttle for a moment to set the nut, then roll the throttle back on. Takes a few seconds and works fine.

Two interesting things I discovered during my installation:
1. It's easy and quick to install... IF you have the right tools. Darn those hex nuts! And thank goodness for Sears :clap:
2. With the bar ends AND my Easy Risers on, it's practically impossible to turn my handlebars to full lock while I sit on the bike-- the bar ends hit me in the thighs. If I position myself right I can pass the bar over, and I can't imagine a situation where I need to go full lock while riding at speed (that'd get the Spyder into an accident far better than whatever accident you're trying to avoid), but it's an annoyance in the parking lot.

Oh, one last thing: sure solved my new vibration problem!

 

[twoseas]

I had a Throttlemeister on my BMW and I usually reached across with my left hand and set it. Like Scotty, I always forcibly released the throttle but I didn't like coming up through the gears with the extra friction. It seemed to make my shifts much more difficult. Maybe just a lack of skill on my part. Anyway, I waited until I was at cruising speed then set the Throttlemeister with my left hand, forcibly released the throttle when slowing down, then released the Throttlemeister with my right hand.

Cotton

Cotton,

Thanks for your insight ! The thought of shifting gears with some restriction on the throttle came to mind. Maybe a little less forgiving with a SE model where no clutch lever is involved thus avoiding a potential engine rpm to gear shift mismatch may occur.

Ray

 

[twoseas]

I just put my Throttlemeister on this weekend. Thanks to Irene I didn't have a lot of opportunity to play around with it, but I found the following:

-- Unlike Scotty, I'm not comfy with leaving it engaged, at least not yet. Maybe I'll get there.
-- My monkey arms aren't long enough to reach over with my left hand AND still keep good control on the bike.
-- I have a Crampbuster that makes it a little harder to do the "slide over to the end and use your pinky & ring finger to roll on the friction nut" deal.
-- Soooo, my technique is simple: I wait for a moment when I don't have much traffic in front and behind me, I speed up a bit, then roll off the throttle to coast, take my hand off the throttle for a moment to set the nut, then roll the throttle back on. Takes a few seconds and works fine.

Two interesting things I discovered during my installation:
1. It's easy and quick to install... IF you have the right tools. Darn those hex nuts! And thank goodness for Sears :clap:
2. With the bar ends AND my Easy Risers on, it's practically impossible to turn my handlebars to full lock while I sit on the bike-- the bar ends hit me in the thighs. If I position myself right I can pass the bar over, and I can't imagine a situation where I need to go full lock while riding at speed (that'd get the Spyder into an accident far better than whatever accident you're trying to avoid), but it's an annoyance in the parking lot.

Oh, one last thing: sure solved my new vibration problem!

Dave, thanks for your comments. I'm a liitle perplexed with your comment regarding your discovery during installation and the "easy risers".

The easy risers are designed to raise your handlebar so unless you have "He-man body builder" thighs, I can't picture how this would be a problem ???

What was this vibration problem you spoke of ?

Thanks,

Ray

 

[pierrelogic]

One of the best mods I've installed on my Spyder. --> Kaoko

Takes 2 minutes to install on stock bars. Take plug out with phillip's screwdriver and install cruise with allen wrench. Saved my right wrist tendons. Long distance trips (like this past weekend) are a breeze. It is based on friction of course and varies the set speed on the road a bit. But the purpose for me was saving my tendon pain. Mission accomplished.

I did have to adjust it after a few 100 miles. 1/16 of a inch space from end of bar means just that. The best part of it is it can be used with gloves on. I ride year round so that too was important to me.

Bit pricey, but I recommend it. :thumbup:

 

[twoseas]

One of the best mods I've installed on my Spyder. --> Kaoko

Takes 2 minutes to install on stock bars. Take plug out with phillip's screwdriver and install cruise with allen wrench. Saved my right wrist tendons. Long distance trips (like this past weekend) are a breeze. It is based on friction of course and varies the set speed on the road a bit. But the purpose for me was saving my tendon pain. Mission accomplished.

I did have to adjust it after a few 100 miles. 1/16 of a inch space from end of bar means just that. The best part of it is it can be used with gloves on. I ride year round so that too was important to me.

Bit pricey, but I recommend it. :thumbup:

Pierrelogic, thank you for your post. I'm wondering now if this cruise assist will work with the "easy riser" bars ?

A previous poster stated that the "throttlemeister" unit worked with his easy riser set up but no one has mentioned the Kaoko unit with the easy riser combo ?

Ray

 

[daveinva]

Dave, thanks for your comments. I'm a liitle perplexed with your comment regarding your discovery during installation and the "easy risers".

The easy risers are designed to raise your handlebar so unless you have "He-man body builder" thighs, I can't picture how this would be a problem ???

What was this vibration problem you spoke of ?

Thanks,

Ray

Heh, I *wish* I had the physique!

If you picture the handlebar, you'll see it's tilted. Thus, while the risers *do* raise the grips, that's at the straight angle-- once you rotate the bars, you're still bringing the ends in because of that tilt. My admittedly large legs combined with the now-long bars means I jam my thigh once I get past 3/4 of a turn unless I scooch back a bit on the seat.

BTW, an interesting problem occurs on the *inside* of the handlebars with the risers installed-- I had to take off my Cortech tank bag as the risers would now bang into it. I'm just using a BRP Ski-doo handlebar bag for now, but I'm looking into jury-rigging a Joe Rocket Manta bag, which is much thinner than my sadly-missed Cortech.

As for vibration, see this thread: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ration-WITH-Risers&highlight=risers+vibration. When I first put my Easy Risers on, I noticed an *increase* in my grip vibration compared to my stock setup. Hence, why I bought the Throttlemeister-- I wanted the attractive bar weights, the cruise control was an added plus. As I mentioned, it solved my problem, I rode plenty this weekend with zero tingling in my hands :2thumbs:

 

[Weave2u]

I've got a Cruise Mate, which is like a little lever under the throttle housing, it can be adjusted on the fly, but I can just move the lever further to get a better grip. It doesn't work the same way as the ones that go on the end of the throttle.

 

[daveinva]

Pierrelogic, thank you for your post. I'm wondering now if this cruise assist will work with the "easy riser" bars ?

A previous poster stated that the "throttlemeister" unit worked with his easy riser set up but no one has mentioned the Kaoko unit with the easy riser combo ?

Ray

I can't see why it wouldn't-- the Kaoko looks like it's even shorter than the Throttlemeister, should have even less of my issue to worry about (and, I admit, my "bumping my legs" issue is directly related to how I have my risers set, i.e. I needed more pullback than rise, so mine are perhaps set a little lower than others might like).