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Front sprocket removal tips.
- Thread starter Eckhard
- Start date
stevencovert
Member
Hi,
There are a couple videos on YouTube about how to remove the rear tire by jacking up on the bottom of the shock, just until you can slide the bolt out. If you have an air bag, you MUST remove the little arm on the left side or you will be at the dealer for a calibration. I think Bob White is the guy that made a good video. Then continue jacking until the belt is slack and you can remove. At this point you don't remove the tire, you have the belt off. Doing it this way means you won't mess up the alignment of the tire (wearing the belt). As far as the front sprocket, yes you should replace the bolt. It's like $10. The sprocket is like $125. cheapcycleparts.com. The bolt gets torqued to a very high amount (search forums here! BRP upped the torque from what is in the service manual!). The problem with the bolt is that it can get micro fractures. If you re-use it, chances are it can snap! This happened to a friends Spyder. Had to drill out the bolt - NOT FUN. While you are there - if you can afford it, I'd highly suggest putting in a new gearbox position sensor ($110 or so). It is right behind the front sprocket and they will go bad. Very poor design. cheap all plastic potentiometer that wears out. I've replaced them on both my RS's, under 30K miles. May need to have the computer reset by BUDS from a friend or dealer (about $40 for an honest one). My Spyder started making this terrible grinding noise when I let off the gas, 50 miles later the front sprocket was toast. They do go fast once they start. It probably looks reddish instead of glossy black. They are made to fail before damaging the shaft, they are well known to have to be replaced. Of coure this would be the time to toss on new rear brake pads if they are more than 50% or so, they wear out a lot faster than the front pads.
There are a couple videos on YouTube about how to remove the rear tire by jacking up on the bottom of the shock, just until you can slide the bolt out. If you have an air bag, you MUST remove the little arm on the left side or you will be at the dealer for a calibration. I think Bob White is the guy that made a good video. Then continue jacking until the belt is slack and you can remove. At this point you don't remove the tire, you have the belt off. Doing it this way means you won't mess up the alignment of the tire (wearing the belt). As far as the front sprocket, yes you should replace the bolt. It's like $10. The sprocket is like $125. cheapcycleparts.com. The bolt gets torqued to a very high amount (search forums here! BRP upped the torque from what is in the service manual!). The problem with the bolt is that it can get micro fractures. If you re-use it, chances are it can snap! This happened to a friends Spyder. Had to drill out the bolt - NOT FUN. While you are there - if you can afford it, I'd highly suggest putting in a new gearbox position sensor ($110 or so). It is right behind the front sprocket and they will go bad. Very poor design. cheap all plastic potentiometer that wears out. I've replaced them on both my RS's, under 30K miles. May need to have the computer reset by BUDS from a friend or dealer (about $40 for an honest one). My Spyder started making this terrible grinding noise when I let off the gas, 50 miles later the front sprocket was toast. They do go fast once they start. It probably looks reddish instead of glossy black. They are made to fail before damaging the shaft, they are well known to have to be replaced. Of coure this would be the time to toss on new rear brake pads if they are more than 50% or so, they wear out a lot faster than the front pads.
Well, what can go wrong will go wrong. I tried to remove the flywheel mounted to the sprocket and only 2 of the countersunk bolts let themselves be removed. The internal hex socket stripped out on the 4 others.
So I decided to remove the sprocket with the flywheel in place and ran up against this little piece , item 17 in the image.
Judging by the image it looks like I could remove it along with item 15 and 18 to get off the sprocket.
Any thoughts on the above course of action.
So I decided to remove the sprocket with the flywheel in place and ran up against this little piece , item 17 in the image.
Judging by the image it looks like I could remove it along with item 15 and 18 to get off the sprocket.
Any thoughts on the above course of action.
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