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Greased front a-arms

safecracker

Well-known member
Got home tonight and decided I would grease the front a-arms. What a job!!! I pulled the front trunk off, that wasn't to bad. I greased the front 4 grease zerks with no problem. The upper inside zerks where a pain in the butt. The air intake on the left side was in the way, had to partially remove it, so I could get at the grease fitting.I do no think it was ever greased except when it was put together. The right side was bad but I still had to partial remove the plastic to get at the grease fitting, again I do not think this was ever greased except when it was put together. Put the front trunk back on and made sure all was well. Success!!!
Changed the oil last night, So I am ready for some good weather to ride....;)
 
I decided to grease the A arms as well a couple of days ago and I also removed the frunk. While I had this thing apart, I decided to get some 45 degree and 90 degree grease fittings and put them in. 45 degree in upper front, and 90 degree in upper rear A arm. I found out that these grease fittings are metric also.....in case anyone decides to get some.....Ride safe guys and dolls.
 
I decided to grease the A arms as well a couple of days ago and I also removed the frunk. While I had this thing apart, I decided to get some 45 degree and 90 degree grease fittings and put them in. 45 degree in upper front, and 90 degree in upper rear A arm. I found out that these grease fittings are metric also.....in case anyone decides to get some.....Ride safe guys and dolls.

Great information! :clap: I'm going to get around to this but first a question: are the lower arm zerks OK as they are?
 
On the GS/RS even after I take the trunk off I had to remove a black plastic guard on each side Sooo I just cut a slot in the plastic guard so I don,t have to take them off again- Taking the trunk of is a 20 Minute job for me so its no big deal once a year (Fall Season) to do it!nojoke
 
Is there any other way to grease these fitting without removing the frunk? It seems to me we need to come up with solution better than the latter.:yikes: Where are you my Fellow :spyder2:riders lets brainstorm?
 
I greased mine without removing the frunk. Yes a pain it was but I turned the zerks a little with a wrench so I could get the grease gun on them easier.
 
I had no problem with the lower as they are. This is referring to an RT. The angled fittings make it so much easier for the top and I use a 90 degree grease gun coupler for the bottom. Hope this helps. Regards to everyone. :cheers:
 
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I had no problem with the lower as they are. This is referring to an RT. The angled fittings make it so much easier for the top and I use a 90 degree grease gun coupler for the bottom. Hope this helps. Regards to everyone. :cheers:


It helps a lot. You've already said they are metric threads, you happen to know if they're M6, M8 or whatever?
I want to get the 45 and 90 degree zerks bought in before I take the frunk off. ;)

I've got a workshop manual but it doesn't give the thread sizes.
 
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It helps a lot. You've already said they are metric threads, you happen to know if they're M6, M8 or whatever?
I want to get the 45 and 90 degree zerks bought in before I take the frunk off. ;)

I've got a workshop manual but it doesn't give the thread sizes.

They are M6.
 
Taking the frunk off is not that bad, especially if you watch the video that is on youtube.

. He has a great video. After all the 4 top screws are removed and the 2 bottom "gold" bolts are removed, pull the bottom of the trunk forward first before lifting and pulling back on the whole trunk. The bottom has 2, C style brackets that fit over the sway bar. I used a big block off wood to set the trunk on so I could disconnect all of the cable connections. Don't pull the trunk to far away, on mine the left drive light cable was zip tyed and I did not have alot of play to disconnect. Once the zip tye was cut, I was able to disconnect. You also may want to remove the fuse panel cover, so you can see as you pull and lift the trunk out away from the fuse panel. Take a picture of the cable connections if you think you might have a problem remembering where they go. Besides the torx bit you will need a 10mm socket and a 6" extension to remove the upper screws, I also used a universal for the 4 bolts that hold the upper part of the trunk. When you put the trunk back on, I set the trunk on the block of wood and reconnected all the cables. When you get ready to put the trunk on, there is 2 slots on top that the trunk sits in. Make sure that the trunk is in those holders, before you let go, if the trunk is not it could fall and knock off you're fuse cover and remove some relays and fuses. Don't ask me how I know.:gaah:
Put all bolts and screw in. At this point I tested all of the drive lights and trunk release and trunk light. All worked great. I then made sure all cables where not pinched. Then the tupperware was put back on. I was good to go. I did just buy a 90 degree grease fitting for the 2 uppers that are closest to the motor. Happy greasing!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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