Harbor Freight lift

[h0gr1der]

I can attest to this style jack fitting under the Spyder RTL without any manipulation to the bike, and as to lifting, the one I got from Harbor Freight (I think they are both the same) lifts and lowers just fine.

https://www.searsoutlet.com/br/pdp/craftsman-1500-lb-motorcycle-atv-jack/16395

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-63397.html

 

[Eviltwin]

I bought this one. It is Chinese junk, but probably made in the same factory as the Craftsman stuff. For as infrequently as I'll use it, and not trusting it for a second (see the alternate support), it serves it's purpose. I bought it before the Chinese virus. Today, given the same choice, I wouldn't but it. Give all that, it does work flawlessly. Won't lift to the required 22", but I don't think any of the cheap lifts do. I think the Big Blue lift does, but it's expensive. This one does roll under the Spyder without the use of 2x6 or other pre-lift devices.
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Attached wrong pic.

I have the cheaper version, the all steel one, if I were to do it over again, I would opt for this one <points up> which is the aluminum version for about 50 more. Either way they work fine if you know how to position them so the bike is balanced and take normal precautions when working on a jacked vehicle (jack stands).

 

[Lew L]

I've got the HF lift and it works fine. When I'm under the bike, it is on jack stands. I wouldn't trust any lift out there without a set of jack stands as back up. The lift does just that, lifts it up just long enough to get other means of support under it..ie.. jackstands

A decade ago I was forced to teach auto shop at the High school where I taught Metal shop. The first semester was small motors and the second sem was basic, beginning auto. I stressed with the students that a car only falls on you once. I had a full assortment of Jack Stands

Not in my shop, but have you ever seen a car or truck fall off a rack??? It's bad!!!!

Lew L

 

[h0gr1der]

I have the cheaper version, the all steel one, if I were to do it over again, I would opt for this one <points up> which is the aluminum version for about 50 more. Either way they work fine if you know how to position them so the bike is balanced and take normal precautions when working on a jacked vehicle (jack stands).

Note the car ramp under the rear. I didn't drive it up there, it was placed. I feel if you don't have to rotate the wheel (belt alignment/tensioning) or remove the rear wheel, this provides more stability than a jack stand on the rear shock bolt.