How I wired up a 5 wire trailer harness, plus other lights. Part 1

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

How I wired up a 5 wire trailer harness on the bike, plus other lights. Part 1

I bought an after market hitch for my 2013 RT so a wiring harness was not included. Besides, I wanted to be able to connect my 5 wire trailer to the bike as a 5 wire trailer. IMO, it it imperative that you use an isolator to power the trailer lights, for two reasons. The Spyder cluster is finicky about added load to the turn signals as has been discussed by others in other threads. The isolator adds only a slight additional load and doesn't upset the cluster. But more importantly, the isolator will protect the cluster. If there is any kind of short or other problem in the trailer wiring you will blow bike fuses and risk screwing up the cluster if the trailer wiring is connected directly to the bike wiring.

Here's the harness I made up.



The Y harness is BRP part # 710003200. It's a called a module for some dumb reason.
The isolator is similar to this one: http://wingstuff.com/products/34253-electronically-isolated-trailer-wire-harness?from_search=1. I cut the connectors off and connected it to a Deutsch 6 pin connector DT04-6P. They're available from various eBay sellers.
The four wire and three wire connectors are AMP/TE Connectivity Superseal series 1.5 and are the same as used elsewhere on the Spyder.
The Wig Wag brake module is this one: http://www.signaldynamics.com/backoffwigwag

I wanted to add a high mount brake light and turn signals so I did those the same time I did the trailer harness. I connected into the wires in my harness rather than tap into the bike OEM harness. If all you need or want is the trailer harness then all you need is the isolator and the Deutsch connector. You have the option of cutting off the Deutsch connector from the Y harness and splicing the wires directly to the isolator input wires.

Here is the wiring diagram I made up. I've modified it some for this posting.



You will see an additional 12 volt + and ground connections on the diagram. I ran a separate 12 gauge wire from the battery back to the trailer connector to have a direct power feed to the trailer. I'm thinking of using my trailer for camping and carrying an auxiliary deep cycle battery to power a CPAP machine at night. Then I plan to feed bike power to it during the day to recharge it. I will have an isolator in the circuit. That's another project for later.

I mounted all this under the left side access panel under the seat. One of the Y harness connectors was still loose when I took the photo.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

How I wired up a 5 wire trailer harness on the bike, plus other lights. Part 2

Here are a couple of pics showing the hitch end of the harness. I used a 6 wire round connector because of the full time power lead. The 6 wire square connector and the 2 wire round connector are there to allow the hitch to be removed from the bike without having to remove the connector from the bracket. I used a few cable tie mounts and cable ties along the swing arm to fasten the pigtail. Be sure to allow enough slack in the harness to allow for the up & down movement of the swing arm.

 

[safecracker]

Thank you for this write up.. Bruce

 

[Showie]

Just completed a jumper from byke 4 square to trailer 4 flat with much help from forum. Thank A Lot All! Now I see that I might need to put an isolator in-line. Is this really necessary from 4 to 4?
Thanks for all the info. :yes:

 

[finless]

Nice and detailed job! :clap::clap::clap: :bowdown:


Bob

 

[randyandsandy74]

WasWinger,
Thank you so much for your info, but I decided to take to the dealer and get the brp harness and adaptor for a four pin trailer. Also I am in Coeurd'Alene area. Again Thank you

 

[Grandfather]

Almost persuaded

I was almost persuaded to yield and make a 4 wire harness for my Escapade trailer, then I saw your post. hyea:It's happy dance time! I just happen to have an isolator I removed from my Goldwing, so I'll purchase a six pin connector and install it. I'll have separate brake and turn signal lights, and won't that be grand! Thanks for your good common sense.
One question, is there a reason you connected the Spyder third brake light, on the bike side of the isolator? I think I'll put mine on the trailer side of the isolator.

I won't need the extra power from the battery for a CPAP, but I will need it for my additional lighting. For today you are my hero.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

One question, is there a reason you connected the Spyder third brake light, on the bike side of the isolator? I think I'll put mine on the trailer side of the isolator.

I won't need the extra power from the battery for a CPAP, but I will need it for my additional lighting. For today you are my hero.

To use it w/ a BL modulator. Both oem bl alternate w/ the HMBL.

I'm on x-country trip. I'll let you all know how my system works for keeping an aux batt charged in the trailer.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I AM TRYING THIS APPROACH

:2excited:.....I haven't ( hard ) wired this yet .....But I purchased LED tailights that have separate turn signal lights the same as the RT.....I also got a " 5 " wire harness and matching plugs.......In theory this should not need any "converter " or " isolator " , since it is just adding lights to the existing lights .......It even has a " back-up " light but I'll leave that alone for now .................Mikeguyver :thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

:2excited:.....I haven't ( hard ) wired this yet .....But I purchased LED tailights that have separate turn signal lights the same as the RT.....I also got a " 5 " wire harness and matching plugs.......In theory this should not need any "converter " or " isolator " , since it is just adding lights to the existing lights .......It even has a " back-up " light but I'll leave that alone for now .................Mikeguyver :thumbup:

Since the trailer lights will be LED you likely will not have a problem hooking them up directly. But if the cluster thinks the load on the turn/hazard is too high they will flash real fast. If the cluster thinks the load on the brake lights is too high, it will trigger a brake failure warning.

Just to let you know what to expect if it does not work.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK

Since the trailer lights will be LED you likely will not have a problem hooking them up directly. But if the cluster thinks the load on the turn/hazard is too high they will flash real fast. If the cluster thinks the load on the brake lights is too high, it will trigger a brake failure warning.

Just to let you know what to expect if it does not work.

....Thanks Billy, But I don't think there is anything that draws less power than a LED............People here hook up multiple strings of LEDS to there Brake and Running lights and it doesn't seem to bother the Nanny........We will see ........Mike :thumbup:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

:2excited:.....I haven't ( hard ) wired this yet .....But I purchased LED tailights that have separate turn signal lights the same as the RT.....I also got a " 5 " wire harness and matching plugs.......In theory this should not need any "converter " or " isolator " , since it is just adding lights to the existing lights .......It even has a " back-up " light but I'll leave that alone for now .................Mikeguyver :thumbup:

The main reason you would want to use an isolator for trailer lights powered off your Spyder, more so than the loads, is to keep from damaging a multi-hundred dollar cluster in the event the trailer wiring ever shorts out. Turn signal and backup lights come out of the cluster.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

CLUSTER ? ? ?

The main reason you would want to use an isolator for trailer lights powered off your Spyder, more so than the loads, is to keep from damaging a multi-hundred dollar cluster in the event the trailer wiring ever shorts out. Turn signal and backup lights come out of the cluster.

...........I'm not sure what you mean by " cluster " and doesn't the lighting circuit ( as well as all the other s ) have a least one " fuse ".............I would think even with your " ISOLATOR " in the circuit , if there was a short a fuse would blow.........Is my line of thinking on this " out in left field " so to speak ???????...................Thanks , Mike

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

...........I'm not sure what you mean by " cluster " and doesn't the lighting circuit ( as well as all the other s ) have a least one " fuse ".............I would think even with your " ISOLATOR " in the circuit , if there was a short a fuse would blow.........Is my line of thinking on this " out in left field " so to speak ???????...................Thanks , Mike

Cluster is that baby that tells you how fast you're moving & how much gas you have left! And no, there is no fuse between it and the lights.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

ANSWER

Cluster is that baby that tells you how fast you're moving & how much gas you have left! And no, there is no fuse between it and the lights.

.......OK ....Thanks .......Mike :thumbup:

 

[doncanfix2]

don't mess with Nanny!

....Thanks Billy, But I don't think there is anything that draws less power than a LED............People here hook up multiple strings of LEDS to there Brake and Running lights and it doesn't seem to bother the Nanny........We will see ........Mike :thumbup:

Hey Blueknight (Mike),
I'm about to connect a litany of aftermarket LEDs (mostly the ShowChrome modules) and that very thought on what's the total load and is isolation required? Seems not but I like to err on the side of safety. My '18 RT hasn't thrown any codes so far but I know Nanny is always watching. In electronics testing I follow the three Ms, measurement, measurement, measurement! Cheers! -Don (doncanfix2)