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Hydrographic printing finished
- Thread starter Cambello
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
That is "Beautious"!! :clap: :2thumbs: :firstplace: :bowdown:
NZSpyderRyder
New member
Great results
I had some parts done in carbon on my ST by a company here in New Zealand, the results were very poor and the carbon hardly stood out. I spent more cash and actually had some parts made out of carbon and they look the reel deal.
Your parts look amazing.
I had some parts done in carbon on my ST by a company here in New Zealand, the results were very poor and the carbon hardly stood out. I spent more cash and actually had some parts made out of carbon and they look the reel deal.
Your parts look amazing.
Cambello
New member
Durable
Hi Bob, well I have to say the bike looks very different than one that still has the original look. I went for a ride with some friends and one of them has an untouched black rt-s and they really did look miles apart. being all black seems to make it look lower and longer. Anyway getting back to what you asked, yes it does stop the kick marks you get from your boots/shoes. This is basically because when you have dipped your plate you then but a coating of lacquer on it, this gives it depth and brings the print out. It also makes it very smooth so marks from your footwear are a thing from the past,,,
Cambello
New member
Primer time
Thanks, I have worked in the carbon industry for 5 years making it for F1 and the USA military and others, the key factor in making print look like the real deal is the prime colour. I spent about 3 months looking for the right colour for the base, and that's the difference. But if I'm honest carbon is all black.
Cambello
New member
printing and the 6 P's
1. Hydrographic print. 3ft by 6ft
2. Primer paint.
3.Activation spray.
4 Face mask
and that was it, I then chose a part of the bike that didn't matter if it got a bit messed up, (Splash Guards). Just rubbed them down with sand paper, primed them, and then followed exactly the steps on Youtube. After a day or so of drying I sprayed them with Lacquer to seal the print and make it water proof. It may take you a few attempts secret is to go as big as you can with your print(depending on the size of tank) dont get any water between the object and the print and take it slow.
Think of the 6 P's
Practice
Prevents
Piss
Poor
Performance
Period
Good luck!:yes:
Hi Finless, I did all the printing myself, every year I try and do something I've never done before and this year it was printing. So were did I get all the materials? Well, i use ebay a lot so all the materials came from there. I watched youtube night after night after night until I knew ever clip on the subject. Once i thought I was confident enough I ordered the following;
1. Hydrographic print. 3ft by 6ft
2. Primer paint.
3.Activation spray.
4 Face mask
and that was it, I then chose a part of the bike that didn't matter if it got a bit messed up, (Splash Guards). Just rubbed them down with sand paper, primed them, and then followed exactly the steps on Youtube. After a day or so of drying I sprayed them with Lacquer to seal the print and make it water proof. It may take you a few attempts secret is to go as big as you can with your print(depending on the size of tank) dont get any water between the object and the print and take it slow.
Think of the 6 P's
Practice
Prevents
Piss
Poor
Performance
Period
Good luck!:yes:
finless
New member
Thanks for the info! What spray lacquer did you use? Reason I ask is I am sure there might be types which would eat the printing or possible crinkle it?
Bob
Cambello
New member
What type of Laquer?
Of course you are correct!! I used basic car lacquer from the D.I.Y store or motor spares shop. The secret to it all is how you let it dry, to avoid any tears and heart ache let each stage dry, When you dip the item and your happy with the result you will find that it's still reacting to the process, by this I mean the print produces a slimmy gel that needs to be softly diluted with running water (warm) till it feels rough to the touch. Once this stage is complete the product will be damp. Putting it in a warm room overnight will be enough to dry it out. Then when you apply the lacquer it shouldn't react with it. Another tip is to spray "Little and often" and build up your coating that way you will get a lush finish. It's not difficult honestly!!!
Good luck,
Of course you are correct!! I used basic car lacquer from the D.I.Y store or motor spares shop. The secret to it all is how you let it dry, to avoid any tears and heart ache let each stage dry, When you dip the item and your happy with the result you will find that it's still reacting to the process, by this I mean the print produces a slimmy gel that needs to be softly diluted with running water (warm) till it feels rough to the touch. Once this stage is complete the product will be damp. Putting it in a warm room overnight will be enough to dry it out. Then when you apply the lacquer it shouldn't react with it. Another tip is to spray "Little and often" and build up your coating that way you will get a lush finish. It's not difficult honestly!!!
Good luck,
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