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Left the lights on, battery is Dead & won't charge! Any ideas??

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Jay13433

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I took my spyder out for a ride yesterday and left the lights on all all night so the battery is dead. I put a charger and it still won't start and the sceen won't come on. What could 5he problem be
 
How many hours on the charger, at what amperage?
What is battery voltage, charger disconnected?
What is battery age?

A severely discharged battery may never recover.
If it does recover, it may have a short life, thereafter.
 
I took my spyder out for a ride yesterday and left the lights on all all night so the battery is dead. I put a charger and it still won't start and the sceen won't come on. What could 5he problem be
If you can remove battery and put on a staged charger that will desulfate .charge, then float charge is best. Or you can find a batteries plus to have them charge over night.
 
I'm guessing you left the key on. Batteries absolutely HATE to be left empty. Because of that, your battery may be toast. Do as happyspyder mentioned. That'll be your best bet.
 
:chat:....My best guess is purchase a battery tender/maintainer and charge your battery for 24 hours.
Then load test it see what you have got.

Or just bite the bullet and buy a new OEM Type Spyder Battery. Because you have most likely 'fried' your battery.
 
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I can't imagine How you left the key in the ON position, and shut the motor off ...... I didn't think the lights could be left ON after the motor was off ..... Good luck with the battery ......Mike :thumbup:

......... OK I decided to check on the "HOW" this could occur myself .... I started my 14 RT, then hit the KILL switch

- that shut the motor off ..... but the headlights stayed on .... after one minute they were still on so I turned off the Key (I didn't want to kill my battery) ..... This won't ever happen to me because:

  1. - I never use the Kill switch; and
  2. - I never leave the key in the ignition switch .... not even in my locked garage! ......

M :ohyea:
 
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I can't imagine How you left the key in the ON position, and shut the motor off ...... I didn't think the lights could be left ON after the motor was off ..... Good luck with the battery ......Mike :thumbup:

......... OK I decided to check on the "HOW" this could occur myself .... I started my 14 RT, then hit the KILL switch

- that shut the motor off ..... but the headlights stayed on .... after one minute they were still on so I turned off the Key (I didn't want to kill my battery) ..... This won't ever happen to me because:

  1. - I never use the Kill switch; and
  2. - I never leave the key in the ignition switch .... not even in my locked garage! ......

M :ohyea:

I was thinking that must have been some hot babe he brought home with him...
 
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If you can remove battery and put on a staged charger that will desulfate .charge, then float charge is best. Or you can find a batteries plus to have them charge over night.
:agree: they can load test afterwards too:thumbup: You might have lost your trip meters & possibly some audio settings however:dontknow: :popcorn:
 
I can't imagine How you left the key in the ON position, and shut the motor off ...... I didn't think the lights could be left ON after the motor was off ..... Good luck with the battery ......Mike :thumbup:

......... OK I decided to check on the "HOW" this could occur myself .... I started my 14 RT, then hit the KILL switch

- that shut the motor off ..... but the headlights stayed on .... after one minute they were still on so I turned off the Key (I didn't want to kill my battery) ..... This won't ever happen to me because:

  1. - I never use the Kill switch; and
  2. - I never leave the key in the ignition switch .... not even in my locked garage! ......

M :ohyea:

Why dont you use the kill switch
 
Why dont you use the kill switch

Cos on your Spyder, virtually all the time using the Kill Switch is a pointless anachronism left over from times past when being able to cut the spark in order to either shut down a carburettor engine that was 'running on' due to gravity fed fuel still running into it or stop it igniting any fuel leaking over the engine and the spark might need to be quickly 'killed' was important; something that's pretty much redundant now that most bikes have EFI Engines requiring high pressure & strictly metered/atomised fuel to be injected at juuust the right moment into the inlet tract or cylinder,; and if that pressure drops/there's a leak in the fuel delivery line then the engine gets shut down by the computer anyway, just like it does in your modern car..... :banghead:

You could just as well ask "Why don't you have a kill switch on your car?" and the almost unanimous answer would be pretty similar - 'Cos there's no need with modern engines & their computer monitored/controlled fuel delivery and engine running!' - an answer which applies equally to virtually all modern fuel injected cars and motorcycles like our Spyders/Rykers! :rolleyes: Besides, the Kill Switch is just another electrical thing to go wrong, which they can & do (just do a search on 'Kill Switch' to see!) even if not too often.... :p . But when they do fail, most riders are completely unable to do anything to get their bike running again, all cos a fairly simple but basically now unnecessary switch failed to work when it should! Why do that to yourself & run the (real) risk of failure when it adds NOTHING to your actual safety anymore, and yet it could cause a whole lot of inconvenience if not a real risk to life &/or limb?!? :gaah:

And with that said, we really should return to the topic of this thread & avoid hijacking it any further (sorry Jay :opps: ) -as mentioned, there are other threads here discussing the Kill Switch. ;)
 
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A standard lead/acid automotive battery is not designed to be discharged more than about 20%. This includes AGM batteries, which are still lead/acid. Discharging them below this 20% can, and often does, cause physical damage inside the case, via plate warping and shorting. The age of the battery isn't particularly relevant to this, nor is the # of dollars spent to purchase it. If you want to take a battery below this point requires a "deep cycle" battery typically used on boats and RV's. Deep cycles have different internal construction, which makes them NOT suitable for starting use as they don't deal well with heavy current draw. And yes, the battery on your bike is a standard, automotive style battery.
 
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Some battery chargers will not charge a completely discharged battery. You can either find one that will or hook a good battery to the discharged one for a minute to build up some voltage and then hook your battery charger to it.
 
If you can find one of those chargers that have a 50 amp (or more) jump start feature that may 'shock' the battery enough to get it to accept a charge. A battery tender type charger will never get it there. What others have suggested to just remove it and take it into a battery store is your best bet.
 
MOST battery chargers will not charge a completely discharged battery. You can either find one that will or hook a good battery to the discharged one for a minute to build up some voltage and then hook your battery charger to it.

Fixed it for you Ed! :thumbup:

But Dave's last sentence is right....

....What others have suggested to just remove it and take it into a battery store is your best bet.

:ohyea:
 
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Just curious if you have decided on what you will do.
Several good Tips have been posted.
Oh well, do whatever you want and enjoy the Time.

For me I say 'get it done and move on'. ......:thumbup:
 
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I'm coming late to this party, so I'm sure you've read this advice before.
Spyders are REMARKABLY sensitive to the condition of the battery.
If there is any doubt to the condition of the battery, just replace it as soon as possible.
DAMHIKT
 
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