NEED HELP FAST - Hitch Shaft came apart, need Spyder Accessories contact info?

[MOSESS]

I am making a new shaft .The threaded portion will be larger with a smaller cotter pin. the threaded portion will be 10mm smaller then the step-up portion on the shaft. this gives the shaft more material to prevent this from happening again, I think this is the logical and economical way to go. what you think guys.

 

[PMK]

Either of those locking nuts are always single use. As far as grease contamination, a squirt of brake clean, let it dry, all gone. Not saying my way is better, but it works for me.

I hope the OP hears back with good news about his thru bolt.

As for lock nuts. It gets expensive doing single use. Even on aircraft, we have criteria in regards to reusing lock nuts. Unless mandated, the lock nuts are reused if they are able to maintain holding force.

A fiber lock nut on the thru bolt, even with clean threads would rate low in the cards for me. Most are considered low temp, and the proximity to the exhaust and brakes would have me avoid that style. All metal style friction nuts can be too hard on the threads causing wear.

Your method for cleaning threads after install can work, but it is not always a good idea to use Halogenated solvents on better grades of steel. Doing so can cause hydrogen embrittlement, which is a form cracks that kind of fail catastrophically. The thru bolt may not be that high of quality to be a concern, but it is something to avoid if possible.

I just consider going away from the cotter key kind of finding the solution, then creating the problem.

Regardless, whatever works and folks prefer.

 

[PMK]

I am making a new shaft .The threaded portion will be larger with a smaller cotter pin. the threaded portion will be 10mm smaller then the step-up portion on the shaft. this gives the shaft more material to prevent this from happening again, I think this is the logical and economical way to go. what you think guys.

Why not just keep it full diameter, the entire length, except in the center to keep it from getting stuck.

How do you plan to fabricate the threads? Cut them or farm it out and have them rolled?

I would not install a cut male thread fastener on something that critical, just looking for problems or failure.

 

[oldgoat]

I hope the OP hears back with good news about his thru bolt.


Your method for cleaning threads after install can work, but it is not always a good idea to use Halogenated solvents on better grades of steel. Doing so can cause hydrogen embrittlement, which is a form cracks that kind of fail catastrophically. The thru bolt may not be that high of quality to be a concern, but it is something to avoid if possible.

In another life I managed a chemical hydrogenation facility where we performed chemical reactions in a solvent under several thousand psi hydrogen pressure in stirred stainless steel vessels.

This is the first time I have heard of hydrogen embrittlement using an halogenated solvent with no hydrogen and pressure present. I would venture to say that a squirt or two of aerosol degreaser to remove any oil/grease would pose no risk at all even at the mildly elevated temperatures the steel would attain around the exhaust & brakes. The solvent would have all evaporated.

Just my 2c worth.

 

[MOSESS]

What did he say ............any way We just spoke and he is a very nice guy and stand behind his products. A new modified one is on its way to me. Ill install it and replace it with my own when its done.

 

[PMK]

In another life I managed a chemical hydrogenation facility where we performed chemical reactions in a solvent under several thousand psi hydrogen pressure in stirred stainless steel vessels.

This is the first time I have heard of hydrogen embrittlement using an halogenated solvent with no hydrogen and pressure present. I would venture to say that a squirt or two of aerosol degreaser to remove any oil/grease would pose no risk at all even at the mildly elevated temperatures the steel would attain around the exhaust & brakes. The solvent would have all evaporated.

Just my 2c worth.

In aviation, working with high grade steels and titaniums, parts can be rendered scrap if exposed to halogenated products. They get super critical about it doing NDT work. Most of the lower grade steels are less suceptable, but higher grades, especially above 180kpsi are prone to concern.

 

[MOSESS]

I think the grade was fine. I think the amount of material left little strength due to the cotter pin hole in that location Ill say bad design. I only hope we can solve a potential problem,

 

[trikermutha]

How about a picture of the failure?? :thumbup: This may help shed some light on some of the Theory's presented today. :shocked:

 

[MOSESS]

A pic would not shed any light on the situation at hand, thank you. the situation is taken care of. We found a solution that will help every one in the future that own a hitch.

 

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that you found a fix; we're waiting to hear more about it! :thumbup:

 

[MOSESS]

The vendor is replacing the shaft, I am going to make up my own with the changes to the dia of the threaded end of the shaft. I think that end of it needs to be a little more substantial then what is presently there. Thanks.

 

[Bob Denman]

:clap: :2thumbs:

 

[MOSESS]

To the Y community I have started thread that became a monster and a lesson for me. I posted this thread only to ask a question, this has turned into a question about the quality of a product. This was never the case it was an installation issue that's all. I may have contributed to this by stating I may make my own shafts. I should not have done that because again it was just an installation problem. I must apologize to Pierre as I have caused him harm by my statements. Pierre I am very sorry. If there was anyone that stands behind their product its you. From the first day we met I knew you are a very nice person, and the quality is first rate. Again, all my fault ...