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REALLY - REALLY - DODGED A BULLET TODAY

BLUEKNIGHT911

Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I was going to do my rear brakes ( 2014 RT ) before Homecoming but didn't ..... I'm glad because it was a bear getting the cyclinder to fully re-tract , I actually had to make a tool because the needle nose pliers thing was not going to get it done :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: ...... It was soooooooo tight I had to re-move BRP's anti-squeak plates to get them to fit .... But I was also really LUCKY because at 30,000 miles my inside Pad ( left static pad ) had approx. 2 - 3 microns of surface left ( no BS ) ....thank God it wore absolutely evenly ...... the other side had about 1/2 mm before the line would have been gone and it would have been down to the minimum ....... My fronts are still good ( yes I pulled both wheels and checked ) ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
I was going to do my rear brakes ( 2014 RT ) before Homecoming but didn't ..... I'm glad because it was a bear getting the cyclinder to fully re-tract , I actually had to make a tool because the needle nose pliers thing was not going to get it done :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: ...... It was soooooooo tight I had to re-move BRP's anti-squeak plates to get them to fit .... But I was also really LUCKY because at 30,000 miles my inside Pad ( left static pad ) had approx. 2 - 3 microns of surface left ( no BS ) ....thank God it wore absolutely evenly ...... the other side had about 1/2 mm before the line would have been gone and it would have been down to the minimum ....... My fronts are still good ( yes I pulled both wheels and checked ) ..... Mike :thumbup:

I'm sure all that made sense to someone who knows about working on a Spyder's brakes. I can only say, I'm happy for you that you are handy and can do it all yourself.
 
Another kudo for those that know how to work on their Spyders. I just had the rear pads replaced by the dealer on the 2011. :thumbup:
 
It is much easier to do the needle nose trick if you have someone to hold everything while you twist them. Glad you got them changed out.
 
Intersted to see your tool please :rolleyes: figure it looks like a spanner wrench & i wanted to test if just inserting two nails & then using a screwdriver to turn would have same results back when i did mine but maybe next time.
 
So glad all worked ok for you. J did my 2012 at 26000 and the rears had less then 1mm on them. The fronts were fine but I went ahead anyway.
 
I was going to do my rear brakes ( 2014 RT ) before Homecoming but didn't ..... I'm glad because it was a bear getting the cyclinder to fully re-tract , I actually had to make a tool because the needle nose pliers thing was not going to get it done :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: ...... It was soooooooo tight I had to re-move BRP's anti-squeak plates to get them to fit .... But I was also really LUCKY because at 30,000 miles my inside Pad ( left static pad ) had approx. 2 - 3 microns of surface left ( no BS ) ....thank God it wore absolutely evenly ...... the other side had about 1/2 mm before the line would have been gone and it would have been down to the minimum ....... My fronts are still good ( yes I pulled both wheels and checked ) ..... Mike :thumbup:
dont they screw in
 
that is what he was saying they were hard to screw in. Needle nose pliers didn't cut it so he made a tool
 
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SCREW IT IN - TOOL

that is what he was saying they were hard to screw in. Needed nose pliers didn't cut it so he made a tool
:clap::clap::clap:.......... I LUV it when someone understand things without the mandatory PICS :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
SCREW IT IN - TOOL

Intersted to see your tool please :rolleyes: figure it looks like a spanner wrench & i wanted to test if just inserting two nails & then using a screwdriver to turn would have same results back when i did mine but maybe next time.
You know I can't do pics :yikes:..... but what you are thinking "might work" has NO chance in HE** of doing so ..... I didn't have a 3/4 piece of pipe so I used a connector from a 1/2 inch pipe ..... trimmed both sides at one end so I had two nubs ( to go into the brake cylinder face ) ... used a small piece of flat stock , drilled a hole for a 5/8 bolt, put a short bolt in and welded it .... cut off the excess, and welded that to 1/2 in. connector ..... now I had something I could put a socket and ratchet wrench on and get the leverage to crank that cylinder in ................. Like Ann said , having someone to hold the Brake Assembly is worth $50.00 minimum :roflblack::roflblack: ..... trying to do it while holding the Brake Assembly :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: is extremely difficult, even with the bleeder slightly open ( very messy ) ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
:D I still prefer pics... :D
But if you're gonna choose another way to keep your brain cells firing on all cylinders: who am I to complain about it! :thumbup:
Glad to hear that it was a "No Harm: No "Foul" situation! :clap:
 
You know I can't do pics :yikes:..... but what you are thinking "might work" has NO chance in HE** of doing so ..... I didn't have a 3/4 piece of pipe so I used a connector from a 1/2 inch pipe ..... trimmed both sides at one end so I had two nubs ( to go into the brake cylinder face ) ... used a small piece of flat stock , drilled a hole for a 5/8 bolt, put a short bolt in and welded it .... cut off the excess, and welded that to 1/2 in. connector ..... now I had something I could put a socket and ratchet wrench on and get the leverage to crank that cylinder in ................. Like Ann said , having someone to hold the Brake Assembly is worth $50.00 minimum :roflblack::roflblack: ..... trying to do it while holding the Brake Assembly :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: is extremely difficult, even with the bleeder slightly open ( very messy ) ....... Mike :thumbup:
I bought a cheep brake kit from HF, works on all differrent makes and models, Awesome tool to have.
It makes the job a piece of cake.
https://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-11-pc-63264.html

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