Redesigned mudflap for trailer hitch

[bluestratos]

Stock Picture................. My Solution.............. It wraps the tire .......Hard to see from Here

Every time I take the trailer out on wet roads both the back of the bike and the trailer get filthy. Before the hitch went on my home made mud flap did a good job so what had changed? I could see by the spray patteren that the spray off the tire flies up and hits the factory hitch/mud flap then spashes up and then over the hitch.

I made a shroud that fits between the hitch and the hitches mud flap as shown. This has pretty much stopped the crude from getting to the trailer. It is hardly noticable from any distance but looks like it should be there. It is made of 1/8" ABS plastic, pebbled surface side up.

The drive belt only looks like this because I have to back into the garage, it goes back to proper clerance when I drive forward.

 

[Bob Denman]

That looks really great! :clap: :firstplace:
:congrats: on a very workable solution! :thumbup:

 

[MouthPiece]

So noted and thanks.

Chris

 

[can-am sam]

Looks like your mudflap conversion was installed at the factory. Very nice!:clap:

 

[bluestratos]

One thing I should have mentioned, I will have to remove the upper mud flap when using the hitch as the two would interfer with each other othe wise. I am looking at creating a narrow slot in the shroud to allow the mud flap to move up and down. This would require a slight longer mud flap.

 

[Rando]

Unless you are interested in making and selling them, I think SpyderPops should jump on this! SpyderPops STCG = Stop The Crud Guard!

 

[Lamonster]

I don't know if you've driven two up but the rear fender will drop down into the hitch pretty far, past the bottom if I remember right.

 

[bluestratos]

You are right Lamonster, since the hitch and the body move independantly of each other I have to remove the mud flap right now (comes off with three little screws that thread into a backer of aluminum). I am working on creating a slot to allow the mud flap to slide up and down without interference. I want to do some more testing to see how well the shroud works at high speed, I have not yet been on the freeway in the rain. I did try it out up to 55 mph and the difference was dramatic, instead of the back of the bike and the first half of the trailer being covered in mud, sticks, gravel, grass, leaves you name it, only the water mist from I believe comes from the front tires hits it so it gets on it and only up to the hinge line, the upper painted area keeps clean now.

By the way... Hi Sam!... you must be excited about getting your new 2013 special addition.. have you hear any updates as to the delivery time?

 

[Lamonster]

You are right Lamonster, since the hitch and the body move independantly of each other I have to remove the mud flap right now (comes off with three little screws that thread into a backer of aluminum). I am working on creating a slot to allow the mud flap to slide up and down without interference. I want to do some more testing to see how well the shroud works at high speed, I have not yet been on the freeway in the rain. I did try it out up to 55 mph and the difference was dramatic, instead of the back of the bike and the first half of the trailer being covered in mud, sticks, gravel, grass, leaves you name it, only the water mist from I believe comes from the front tires hits it so it gets on it and only up to the hinge line, the upper painted area keeps clean now.

By the way... Hi Sam!... you must be excited about getting your new 2013 special addition.. have you hear any updates as to the delivery time?

I agree that it makes a huge difference in the amount of spray you get on the trailer and the back of your neck. This is my solution.

I still have the prototype ST here and have just over 4000 miles on it now. No word when mine will show up yet. opcorn:

 

[bluestratos]

That looks like checker plate aluminum bent on two plains, very spiffy.. how did you attach it?

 

[Lamonster]

That looks like checker plate aluminum bent on two plains, very spiffy.. how did you attach it?

I used a alumn. trailer fender (10") and made a steel mount that bolts to the hitch.

 

[KCPete]

I LIKE that fender! :clap: Gives me some food for thought...

 

[Bob Denman]

Hey that would even work as a spot to mount some more lights! :2thumbs:
Somebody call Reggy!

 

[gary lester]

FLAP

LOOKS GOOD I have a couple old fenders laying around but would like to see detail on mounting

 

[Bryk]

I used a alumn. trailer fender (10") and made a steel mount that bolts to the hitch.

Planning on getting the schematics out to SpyderPops on this? I'd like to have one for when I get a trailer hitch added.

 

[Tx web rider]

nice mudflap belt!!!

View attachment 58169View attachment 58170View attachment 58171View attachment 58172
Stock Picture................. My Solution.............. It wraps the tire .......Hard to see from Here

Every time I take the trailer out on wet roads both the back of the bike and the trailer get filthy. Before the hitch went on my home made mud flap did a good job so what had changed? I could see by the spray patteren that the spray off the tire flies up and hits the factory hitch/mud flap then spashes up and then over the hitch.

I made a shroud that fits between the hitch and the hitches mud flap as shown. This has pretty much stopped the crude from getting to the trailer. It is hardly noticable from any distance but looks like it should be there. It is made of 1/8" ABS plastic, pebbled surface side up.

The drive belt only looks like this because I have to back into the garage, it goes back to proper clerance when I drive forward.

you say your belt walks out when you back and rides right when forward that sounds like your rear tire is not adjusted proper!!!

you should be able to rotate the tire forward and back without a belt walking side to side in this manor

if its doing this the tracking of it is off

correct tracking on the belt should be 1/16 off of the right side guard of the rear sprocket this gap is to see of there is adjustment issues

there shouldn't be much if any reversing walk to the left

 

[NancysToy]

you say your belt walks out when you back and rides right when forward that sounds like your rear tire is not adjusted proper!!!

you should be able to rotate the tire forward and back without a belt walking side to side in this manor

if its doing this the tracking of it is off

correct tracking on the belt should be 1/16 off of the right side guard of the rear sprocket this gap is to see of there is adjustment issues

there shouldn't be much if any reversing walk to the left

Sorry, but I disagree. I have never seen a Spyder that didn't have the belt walk out a bit when backed up. The shop manual even warns against rotating the wheel backwards when adjusting the belt. If the belt runs true when the Spyder is moved straight forward, it is generally OK, but if the variation when reversed or in turns is execessive, there is likely a problem that needs to be addressed.

 

[kinggeek]

I used a alumn. trailer fender (10") and made a steel mount that bolts to the hitch.

When we spoke at the owners event you said you might be making this out of plastic to look like stock rear Kenda tire tread and selling them. I am not trying to create another NBV like thread with all of us begging you to hurry up and make them already but have you thought any more about it?

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2

 

[boborgera]

Sorry, but I disagree. I have never seen a Spyder that didn't have the belt walk out a bit when backed up.

Yep!, they all walk a little when backed up, Some a little more than others.
A few years ago i ran into a guy who manufactured drive belts and he explained why they do that.
Naturally i didn't understand most of what he said, What i did remember was something to do with the
length of the belt on the Spyder and the way their cut from long rolls.:dontknow:

 

[Bob Denman]

But it sure can be disconcerting... :shocked:
How many miles would you have to back up before the belt walked off the pulley? :yikes: