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Rotella T6 full synthetic 5-40

MrBones

New member
Not about my Spyder but my wifes Yamaha 650. I changed her oil and used the above, put 2K on then I noticed a small sign that said it is heavy duty diesel oil. Will this cause a problem? Should I change it again? Will really have to read closer next time. Thanks for any help you can give.
 
Not about my Spyder but my wifes Yamaha 650. I changed her oil and used the above, put 2K on then I noticed a small sign that said it is heavy duty diesel oil. Will this cause a problem? Should I change it again? Will really have to read closer next time. Thanks for any help you can give.
Nope, you are fine. But after 2k, the oil has probably sheared to a 30 weight. As long as you are reading the bottle, take note that Rotella is JASO MA, which is fine for your Yammies clutch. Run the 15w40 next time, it's a little better at staying in grade.
 
I would probably worry more about the viscosity than the oil type. Is that light an oil what is recommended for the Yammie?
 
What is it about the Spyder SE clutch that makes this oil not useable when it works fine for other bikes with wet clutches? Have used it for years in Harley's and many other vehicles. The 5W40 is a full synthetic, the 15w40 is not. Both have nearly the same viscosity at 100 deg C.
 
All 40 weight oils will fall into the same viscosity range at 100C. Doesn't matter whether they're 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 or straight 40 weight. The xxW portion of the rating denotes cold temperature flow characteristics.

I think the issue with Rotella T6 is that it is also SM rated, which indicates the additive package has friction modifiers that BRP feels are incompatible with the Spyder clutch.
 
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Not about my Spyder but my wifes Yamaha 650. I changed her oil and used the above, put 2K on then I noticed a small sign that said it is heavy duty diesel oil. Will this cause a problem? Should I change it again? Will really have to read closer next time. Thanks for any help you can give.
T6 rotella from shell, I use it in my rt and I used it in my meanstreak, I called shell and they said it would not cause my clutch to slip and it meets all of can am's requirements. 70,000 on my meanstreak 18,000 on my rt all is a ok, imo
 
T6 rotella from shell, I use it in my rt and I used it in my meanstreak, I called shell and they said it would not cause my clutch to slip and it meets all of can am's requirements. 70,000 on my meanstreak 18,000 on my rt all is a ok, imo

As has been repeated over and over again. In your owners manual it warns not to use any oil rated SM. Since Rottella T6 is rated SM and since there are lots of choices that are not. Why not choose something else? When you called Shell did you tell them that your owners manual warned you not to use SM rated oil and then did they tell you to disregard the manufactures guidelines?
 
I am using it in my VTX 1300.......many on the VTX site use it......haven't done an oil change myself on the Spyder, but thinking about it soon.
 
Thanks for the replies. Relieves my mind,:2thumbs: I have used it for years in my Valkyrie but it didn't have the diesel sign. And Scotty yep Yamaha says 40W.
 

Did you actually read the whole link you posted. It is out of date and does not reference the API designation of SM. It also warns that you take the risk for clutch slippage if you use SJ oil because of friction modifiers and the author actually recommends using an inexpensive synthetic motorcycle oils which is exempt from using friction modifiers in the SJ spec. So thank you for posting a link that proves my point.

The reason I keep harping on this subject is that before I knew any better I use Rottella T6 once following recommendations from folks like you and seeing that it meet the JASO MA spec for clutch slippage. Well the clutch started slipping in my 09 GS under hard acceleration. At first I felt something different but was not sure but suspected maybe the clutch was slipping but when I got the Transmission Failure warning I knew. With only 700 miles on that oil I dumped the oil and changed filters. After the oil change it still took a couple hundred miles before the feeling of slippage went away.

Now you can use what ever oil you want that is your choice. You may not drive aggressively and notice a problem. But if you recommend an oil that I tried and had a problem with and BRP tells you not to use, I have to speak up.
 
The Spyder clutch seems to be more susceptible to clutch slippage than most wet clutch motorcycles. It could be the clutch compounds BRP is using, lower clutch pressure (to make the clutch easier to pull) or a combination of things. BRP designed this clutch mechanism to work well within the designated specifications for lubrication. Outside of that, you're on your own.

Several people have experienced clutch slippage with their Spyder using oil that works fine in another wet clutch machine. This includes Rotella.

When you see a JASO MA rated oil, this does not indicate a point on a chart for slippage characteristics. Instead, it means that the oil falls within a spread on the slippage chart. It could be at the very bottom of the MA rating or it could be near the top of the MA rating. They are not going to tell you that.

JASO MA2 rated oils are better at preventing clutch slippage and start where the MA (or more accurately MA1) oils stop. /_______________MA1________________/_________________MA2_________________/ So you can see that there is quite a difference between oils at the low end of the MA spread and oils at the top of the MA2 spread.

One of the reasons I use Amsoil is because it is near the top of the MA2 rating which gives me great protection against clutch slippage as well as superior lubrication of engine and transmission components.

Slippage can be inciduous, especially if you do not ride aggressively. You can be getting some without necessarily knowing it until you need a new clutch pack. A more aggressive rider, or one that is heavily loaded (like pulling a trailer or riding 2 up) will usually discover clutch slippage pretty quickly.
 
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Along those lines...what oil is best for the 1330?
I was at a bike show yesterday and a guy was trying to sell me on Spectro Full Synth Platinum 4 oil in 10w40.
I didn't buy.
What say ye?



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Oh boy another oil thread. If you use an oil no matter what brand that meets the specs for your engine and change it on a regular schedule You will Not have an oil related failure. My personal favorites are Delo 400 and Rotella. Cheap and available anywhere.
 
Along those lines...what oil is best for the 1330?
I was at a bike show yesterday and a guy was trying to sell me on Spectro Full Synth Platinum 4 oil in 10w40.
I didn't buy.
What say ye?



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

What I say is irrelevant, however, that is an excellent product.
 
Rotella T6

Anyone running this oil in a 1330 ?If so have you had it tested ? spyder stryder

You are treading in deep water opening up a can of worms like "oil". Hahahaha!
Regardless, I have used Rotella T6 in all of my motorcycles and now in my 2014 ST Limited. That is not the 1330 engine, I know, but I am willing to bet that Rotella T6 meetx/exceeds all BRP specifications for the 1330.
 
OIL

I have used T6 in other bikes and it was fine. It is Jaso MA. I think Blueknight911 uses it in his 2014.
I did once , it was OK ..... Then I discovered Valvoline 4 stroke full syn 10w/40 ( this is JASO Ma2 & has the second lowest amount of Moly in it - only Amsoil has less - Moly is BAD for our clutches ) ..... the Valvoline was actually cheaper at Wally world than the Rotella ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
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