I bought my 2010 RT-A last sept, and have enjoyed ryding ever since. I've followed all maintenance service as recommended by the owner's manual. Aside from a oil leak issue (which the dealer repaired under the service bulletins), everything was going great! About 1 week ago, I got my bike back from her 3k service, and rode about 400 miles. Today, in prepping bike for a charity ride, it wouldn't stay running for more than 2 minutes. I also got an EBD fault light, and a "Master Key" message on the screen. While it was idling, there was a loud knocking noise, and a power loss on the throttle. Of course, this happens on a Sunday, and I'll have to call dealer in am to have them come and pick it up to check it out. Has anyone ever experienced this, and if so, what was the preoblem? Both oil and fuel levels are good. Thanks for your help!
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RT-A won't stay running
- Thread starter smurfette
- Start date
I bought my 2010 RT-A last sept, and have enjoyed ryding ever since. I've followed all maintenance service as recommended by the owner's manual. Aside from a oil leak issue (which the dealer repaired under the service bulletins), everything was going great! About 1 week ago, I got my bike back from her 3k service, and rode about 400 miles. Today, in prepping bike for a charity ride, it wouldn't stay running for more than 2 minutes. I also got an EBD fault light, and a "Master Key" message on the screen. While it was idling, there was a loud knocking noise, and a power loss on the throttle. Of course, this happens on a Sunday, and I'll have to call dealer in am to have them come and pick it up to check it out. Has anyone ever experienced this, and if so, what was the preoblem? Both oil and fuel levels are good. Thanks for your help!
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
First thing I would check is that the relays and fuses (especially the main relay) are properly seated, although this is less of a problem on the RT than on the RS. Second thing is to check the battery terminals (inside the body) for tightness, and also the rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal) for tightness. Beyond that, the diagnostic codes should tell your dealer something.
SpyderFun
New member
:agree:
I would even have them reprogram all of your keys (requires a BRP Dealer Master Key) all over again. Doing so may eliminate any programming "gremlins" and the "Master Key" message. Who knows, yo may have a key with a bad chip in it. :dontknow:
Daisyjoe
New member
Recently had a problem with my Spyder not cranking. I would turn the key and perform the rest of the routine.
The gauges would run across and it would click like it was going to crank, but no fire. From Wednesday to Tuesday, it cranked 4 times. When I first tried it on Tuesday morning, no go. I just happen to think, "Let me try the other key." Which I had never used. Cranked up then and every time since then, regardless of the key I used.:shocked::shocked: Dealer could find nothing wrong. I said all this to say that I agree--- TRY THE OTHER KEY!!
The gauges would run across and it would click like it was going to crank, but no fire. From Wednesday to Tuesday, it cranked 4 times. When I first tried it on Tuesday morning, no go. I just happen to think, "Let me try the other key." Which I had never used. Cranked up then and every time since then, regardless of the key I used.:shocked::shocked: Dealer could find nothing wrong. I said all this to say that I agree--- TRY THE OTHER KEY!!
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