Spyder RT Suspension feeling every bump in the road and occasionally shaking - how do I confirm if it's the shocks?

[BryanSD]

I'm having a "new to me" problem with my 2017 Spyder RTL that I'm hoping others can point to me toward the cause of the problem. I'm the original owner. Over the summer, I've started to feel every bump in the road and occasionally shaking at a level I have never experienced before. I originally thought it could be a balancing issue, as this summer I also had the dealer replace my rear tire (same as previous tire, the Kenda KR20 Kanine). However, when I'm on freshly paved asphalt roads the Spyder runs smoothly and it's only the more worn out roads where I'm starting to believe it's a suspension issue. Is it possible it's the front shocks going bad and if so, how do I confirm it? I'm pretty sure the rear air suspension is working fine but is there a way to confirm that is working as expected?

Sorry for getting so basic here, but with no error codes and only seeing the Spyder's VSS kick in once or twice. I'm just needing an idea where I need to throw my money or time for a smoother or safer ride. The last thing I want to do is have the dealer waste my money on labor costs and solutions that might or might not fix my issue. It probably doesn't help that this problem isn't sudden as much as just snuck up on me over time to drive me a little crazy.

 

[BajaRon]

I would check your tire pressures if for no other reason than to eliminate this as a source. Try 18-20 in the front, depending on weight, and 24-26 in the rear.

How many miles do you have on the front shocks. I assume it's a problem with the front end and not the rear. Typically you will feel bumps much more with a rear suspension problem than you will with front suspension issues.

 

[BryanSD]

I would check your tire pressures if for no other reason than to eliminate this as a source. Try 18-20 in the front, depending on weight, and 24-26 in the rear.

How many miles do you have on the front shocks. I assume it's a problem with the front end and not the rear. Typically you will feel bumps much more with a rear suspension problem than you will with front suspension issues.

I usually keep my front at 18-20 lbs but I will lowering the pressure on my rear tire (I usually keep it at 27-28 lbs). These are all the original OEM shocks nearing 25,000 miles on them. I would say I'm having issues in both the front and rear, I'm getting more shaking form up front and feeling the bumps in the rear. Like I mentioned earlier I first thought I had an issue with tire balance, but I'm not having any issues on the straight and narrow smooth roads.

 

[Knizar]

I usually keep my front at 18-20 lbs but I will lowering the pressure on my rear tire (I usually keep it at 27-28 lbs). These are all the original OEM shocks nearing 25,000 miles on them. I would say I'm having issues in both the front and rear, I'm getting more shaking form up front and feeling the bumps in the rear. Like I mentioned earlier I first thought I had an issue with tire balance, but I'm not having any issues on the straight and narrow smooth roads.

Are your front tires starting to cup on the inside or outside? Are they Kenda front tires?
That may be your problem.

 

[Woodaddict]

Depending how the dealership changed the tire, if they fully suspended the swing arm, the auto arm link could have been damaged or not hooked back up

 

[Mikey]

Like Ron said, check your tire pressures and ride it a bit to see if that makes a difference, but I think you may have a tire out of balance, and if you have the stock type tires on the front and they are cupping, then I would dump them. My friend had the same issue that you're having, I talked him into putting a new set of tires on the front, and it went away! As far as the rough, bumpy ride you're getting, your front shocks may be going South on you. How many miles do have on your bike; do you see any oil on the top of the shocks; do feel any bouncing when you go over a bump?

 

[BryanSD]

For the front tires, they are the Kenda KR20 Kanines also (not OEM), and the tread look fine with no signs of cupping. I didn't replace them this time around because they look like they could do another 6000 miles on them.

Depending how the dealership changed the tire, if they fully suspended the swing arm, the auto arm link could have been damaged or not hooked back up

OK, good another things to question with the dealer. With riding season starting to wind down, I can at least afford to take some time working with the dealer to resolve this. I'm starting to think this may be a shock issue but I'm hesitant to go that route until I'm sure.