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Stuck in 1st gear - Fault Code P074D - Any thoughts?

bayoumanPIBE

New member
I was 20 sec from the house on my 2021 F3 Ltd and tried to shift into 2nd. Bike hit limp mode immediately. No codes showed on the screen.

I've checked or done the following common tasks/checks...parking brake is not engaged, foot is on brake when starting, it's not in reverse, the oil level is 3/4 to the max line...oil maintenance was done not long ago and I've been on road trips since then with no issues.

This is my 2nd Spyder, so I'm familiar with it...but, this...omg...another issue.

I went through the screen options on the dash...found fault code P074D. See pic.

I cannot find anything online or in Spyderlovers. I also cannot find any article related to what I'm experiencing. I'm supposed to be on the road in the AM for a weekend Fall run-away...prefer not to be stuck at home especially since I work remote now...ok, enough of my tears in your beer...

Thoughts??

code-p074d.jpg
 
@Flamewinger - Battery terminals are tight. I disconnected both and cleaned the connections, tightened them back, and it did not help.

I also noticed when testing again just now the bike accelerates on its own when shifting into 2nd. Kinda nerving since I do not know if that is normal as when shifting regularly I'm already accelerating...make sense?

There are no warning or failure type lights on the dash other than the low gas light.

Thanks btw...

I'll keep check back periodically for more suggestions. Appreciate ya'll.
 
From what I can get at here, it looks like that P074D Code is a TCM Code - TCM = Transmission Control Module; looks & behaves very much like the ECU for the Engine, only it's located on the other side of the motor/frame; controls the Trans; & is clearly labelled 'Transmission' ;)

All I've got:

P047D module: TCM BOSCH

Unable to Downshift 3 times in a row
Shift solenoid is broken
Shift spool valve is stuck
Shift piston or linkage is stuck or broken
Shift forks in transmission are bent/stuck/broken

The battery dis-connect would've cleared any active codes, have you tried riding it since?? That'll be the test to see if the code comes back again! :lecturef_smilie:

If the code doesn't come back again, & you can freely change thru the gears via the paddles in both directions, then it's likely you'd just tried & failed to downshift 3 times in a row but failed when this code first came up (whether you did that knowingly or not may reveal another issue entirely?!? :dontknow: ) and the code's no longer active/coming back repeatedly, then it looks/sounds you're probably good to go on your Fall run-away without any major concerns... :ohyea:

But if you hadn't done that 'failed to downshift 3 times thing' &/or the code is not going away/is still repeatedly occurring, then it's either time to start checking the shift solenoid, spool valve, etc, etc; or it's time to get it to a dealer/Spyder tech, & that'll probably mean no trip in the near future, sorry! :opps:

Hope that helps some. Good Luck! :cheers:
 
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@Peter Aawen - I did test ride after reconnecting the battery...did not help. The downshift 3x did not help either.

Thank you regardless
 
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Bummer to read this. A while back, a friends 2021 RT Limited acted stupid in a very similar way. Forget the exact codes. Had to go back to the dealer to reflash the computers. For him it was under warranty.
 
Update...went out shortly ago and tested again.

1. The issue is still there, but I now notice before, during and after (which I thought I had imagined it earlier), but the limp mode light never comes on...not sure what that's all about. I know it works, because it comes on normally prior to cranking.

2. I now have a 2nd code which isn't anymore help than the first code...can't find anything online so far. This fault code is: P074E

code-p074e.jpg

3. I can also detail what's happening better:

- Shifting into 2nd the bike seems to lose all power and struggles as if loose wiring or bad plugs or flooding. Holding the throttle, the bike seems to want to die but doesn't...letting off the throttle she wants to just idle but kinda crappy. I did not notice RPM's, but all gauges showed normal. Again, there are no warning or failure indicators lit up including limp mode at any point. Can the plugs be bad? It's late, I'm beaten up and I've cancelled the weekend...I will check them in the AM.

- Cranking seems a bit longer than before...as if a weak battery...could be my imagination due to my history with this ole girl.

Yeah, I'm nerved this could be another large issue...just recently got the first major issue figured out on my own dime (lots of dimes) and lots of time...she's barely a year old. Ok...no more tears for ya'lls beers...

Thanks ya'll.
 
@Peter Aawen - I did test ride after reconnecting the battery...did not help. The downshift 3x did not help either.

Thank you regardless

Bugga! Sorry it wasn't the easy one! :gaah:

But that's not intended as a fix, it's what's been suggested by the manual as a CAUSE for that code occurring - ie, you tried to downshift 3 times and it wouldn't/couldn't do that despite you flapping the paddle repeatedly, so that Code has come up & put you into Limp Home mode... or maybe it's not actually 'Limp Home' but some other 'preserve the transmission' mode that has the same effect! :dontknow:

Regardless, those 3 tries to downshift that failed present as the highest/most likely on the list of possible things causing that code to appear! :lecturef_smilie:
 
Update...went out shortly ago and tested again.

......

2. I now have a 2nd code which isn't anymore help than the first code...can't find anything online so far. This fault code is: P074E

.....

Did some more searching, & found an entry for that Code - it started out much the same as the previous code, but then it went on.... :rolleyes:

(PA nb: before the numbers start below, each line item is the next most likely cause, starting with the MOST likely first/at the top. Once the numbers start, you just need to follow the process sequentially &/or as directed!)

P047E module: TCM BOSCH

Unable to Downshift 3 times in a row

Dog on dog resolution does not work (for missed shifts when the vehicle is stationary)

Transmission is stuck in gear

Shift linkage is damaged/stuck

Line pressure too low to permit a shift (should rise other low line pressure DFC's)

1-put SM shifter (or multi-grips/pump pliers) on the shift shaft protruding from the engine left side.

Try to shift manually with this added shifter.

Go to 2. If not goto 3

2 -run TCTest_PCluLine & TCTest_ShiftHyd.

If there really is a problem, one of them should fail. If so replace HCU

3 -Move by hand the reverse interlock lever. If its not moving freely it can be the source of the stuck transmission.

4 -Start engine & press shift buttons.

Put your hand on the manual shifter while asking for shifts.

Does the manual shifter on the shift shaft seem like it receives a force from the HCU? If not, run step 2 again & replace HCU

5 -Remove clutch cover then try to shift the transmission manually.

Inspect the shift pawl & star indexer for damage or foreign part blocking movement.

If it is possible to shift the transmission once the clutch cover is removed but it was imposible with the clutch cover in place

Replace clutch cover with HCU & shift linkage

If it still doesn't shift, replace transmission.​

End


:p Hope something there helps. :dontknow:
 
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I was going to pipe in and suggest looking at the shift paw, would not be the first bad one ever found!! good luck!!
 
Videos

I am going to keep trouble shooting whatever possible...but, I have an appointment 11/8/2022 at the local dealership. Didn't sound hopeful there was going to be a quick turn around. :banghead: Which bites...I'm being denied ryding out the fall colors this season. Fall just enhances my personal wind therapy that one short window of time each year...Brody knows what I mean.

Keep in mind I am putting my foot on the brake when cranking and she will start but will not go into neutral as she should.

I also topped off the oil.

There are 2 videos below...they show what happens AFTER she's started, sitting still with the emergency brake engaged and not throttling:

Video #1 - I'm up and down shifting...
- Pay attn to the rod spindle protruding towards the camera from the side. It has teeth on it at the end as if it's missing a belt.
- At this point, engine just started and is running and I have not tried to shift yet and you'll see that rod jump spin a tad bit forward and backwards on its own and tends to stop after a few back and forths...think it might be trying to put her in neutral.
- After it stops back/forth, I will up shift then down and that rod will jump spin a tad bit back and forth each time I shift. This happens when my foot is on and off the brake.
- Notice what I think is the linkage cable underneath that rod...it does not move. That normal?


Video #2 - I'm attempting reverse and then up/down shift and repeat...
- I am holding down the reverse button and pulling back on the paddle shifter.
- Notice the cable...tightens and pulls. Bike stays in 1st.
- I then up and down shift and the rod jumps forwards and back.
- Bike stays in 1st.
- No limp mode indicator, but the fault code now is back to P074D.


What's that rod called anyway? I cannot find it.

That's all I have at the moment...re-tried everything again before posting this...
 
That 'rod spindle' you're asking about is the manual "shift shaft protruding from the engine left side" mentioned in line '1 -' of that info I copied for you in Post #12 above - it's there on all Spyders, because they all run what is essentially the same gearbox - altho the SE6's have a different clutch arrangement & the Solenoid selector pack is bolted on so it doesn't need anything connected to that, but the SM5's & SM6's have the foot selector lever mounted onto that shaft in order to allow manual shifting. The SE5's have a solenoid activated selector arm mounted there to trigger their gear changes supported by their centrifugal clutch, but that clutch system was upgraded to the oil pressure/hydraulic clutch used on the SE6's to improve its operation with the higher torque engine & lower the engagement revs. :thumbup:

In your Video 1, that shaft is moving because the Semi-Auto's solenoid shifters etc are trying to select Neutral immediately the engine begins trying to start (as they should) and I expect THOSE repeated gear change attempts are the "Unable to Downshift 3 times in a row" thing that's triggering your fault/s.... probably for one of the reasons mentioned further down that list in Post #12... and as suggested in line '3 -' of that list, maybe you could try gently giving it a hand with a pair of pliers on the splines?!? :dontknow:

The solenoid & cable thing below that which is the highlight of your Video 2 is the Reverse Selector Lock-out or something similar; it's what is triggered by you putting your finger on the Reverse button, and it needs to operate in order for you to select Reverse - if it doesn't do its thing properly, Reverse ain't happening!! :banghead:

Maybe you could try working thru that numbered list in Post #12, even if you can't do the tests mentioned in line '2 -' - it's gotta be worth a shot?? :dontknow:

It does sorta look like you've got something stuck inside the trans tho, possibly you'll need to take the clutch cover off to look & maybe release any sticking/jammed components?! There again, as Mikey suggested above, your Spyder wouldn't be the first of that vintage or newer to experience issues with the selector paddles &/or the entire Left Hand Control Module?! :banghead:

Good Luck! :cheers:
 
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@Peter Aawen - Thank you...that's cool information. I've found some other posts where folk describe what reads just like mine, and most of the solutions were to replace the left hand side shifter module
 
Can brake fluid really have anything to do with this bike being stuck in 1st? Read that in an old post on another forum...but, no one responded.
 
FYI...the brake fluid question is just that. I checked, and she is at the max line with brake fluid. So, it's not that even if there is a relation between being stuck in gear and low brake fluid.
 
Hey all...

Update. Bike is still at the dealership. Mechanic was able to get the transmission unlocked last week. They are still working with BRP on computer diagnostics. They no nothing else, and there's no ETA since 11/8/2022 when I dropped her off.

I could not find where in the warranty you get a replacement after so many times back to the various dealerhship service shops within a year... :roflblack:

But, seriously though...I have literally lost count the number of trips to both in and out of town dealerships without reviewing paperwork back since (not kidding) day 1 of leaving the out-of-town dealership little over a year ago. I plan on doing it soon though...can't imagine all of what I have paid along with all the mileage towing. :dontknow:

Suppose I kinda-sorta-a-little like my Spyder...or, subconciouisly wind therapy is more important than I thought. ;)

I'll update again soon.

Thanks for reading, and Happy Thanksgiving all!
 
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