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Suction pump for 1330 oil change?

Clocker

New member
Has anyone used a suction pump to draw the oil out of a 1330 during an oil change? I'm wondering if it could be done through the dipstick port.
 
Has anyone used a suction pump to draw the oil out of a 1330 during an oil change? I'm wondering if it could be done through the dipstick port.

Yes it has been done ....... However it's not recommended by knowledgeable mechanics ..... sometimes easy is not always best .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Do a search on this forum for "Draining oil vs Sucking up oil". Good information on that thread. Not a good idea.....
 
People do this kind of thing in boats because trying to get to the drain plug on some inboards are impossible to reach and get the oil out of the bilge of your boat!! But why would you want to do this to your bike, why do this job half ass when you have your motor and transmission are sharing the same fluid? Do the job right and you'll also be able to check other things out in the process! belt tension and wear, sprockets, shifting linkage, ect!! Good luck, your bike you choose!
 
The main issue with a boat is the engine is a wet sump system, i.e., an oil pan that holds all the oil less that in the filter. The Spyder is a dry sump system wherein the suction tube goes only into the separate but integral oil tank and cannot reach the oil that drains back into the crankcase or the clutch cover.
 
If you are happy just changing 2/3's of your oil during an oil change, go for it.
 
If you are happy just changing 2/3's of your oil during an oil change, go for it.

You might get 1/2 to 2/3 of the oil out IF you suck it out within minutes of ending a several mile ride. Once you stop the engine the oil drains down into the crankcase from the reservoir on the side of the engine. The dipstick tube goes into the oil tank, not the crankcase. You cannot reach the crankcase through the dipstick tube. Plus, there is a barrier just below the crankshaft so if you could get the suction tube into the crankcase you still cannot get it to the bottom of the crankcase.
 
You might get 1/2 to 2/3 of the oil out IF you suck it out within minutes of ending a several mile ride. Once you stop the engine the oil drains down into the crankcase from the reservoir on the side of the engine. The dipstick tube goes into the oil tank, not the crankcase. You cannot reach the crankcase through the dipstick tube. Plus, there is a barrier just below the crankshaft so if you could get the suction tube into the crankcase you still cannot get it to the bottom of the crankcase.

Yep, only a fool or a dealership service guy lets the oil cool before changing.
 
I use an extractor on two of my cars, but as noted above you can not get the hose down into the crankcase. I tried it one time immediately after a ride and got 3- 4 quarts outs; I did not measure it precisely. Perhaps the use of an extractor depends on your circumstances; if its not convenient to get to a dealer, or you are like some of us and are not capable of draining the oil, etc., 2/3-3/4 fresh oil is better than none.

A full drain and filter change is obviously the best, if you are able.
 
I did the extraction last change on my F3. Got 4 quarts out of the warm 1330 and the full amount is 5 so I changed 80% of the oil and filter and I only went 3,000 miles in the year prior to the change. All the four stroke SeaDoos I have had you only extract 2 quarts and the engine holds 3 1/2 quarts so you never do a complete oil change on the jet ski. The first few changes I did by the book but I ain't laying on my back any more at my age.
 
One more thought..... Doing an oil suction job DOES NOT meet BRP requirements in order to maintain warranty. (I checked when a slick service writer tried to get me to accept this method)...... Jim
 
I ain't laying on my back any more at my age.




~~~~I hear ya Sarge! I’m struggling with advancing age & I have an idea I’m younger than you. Turned 65 this past November. When I did the 1st oil change on my 2021 Spyder RT recently (month ago?) I was cursing (under my breath) having to get down on the garage floor to remove the oil in this beast, not that Cretin Girl is the only motor on our farm where I have to do this (get on the ground to remove motor oil) but Cretin Girl is the first motorcycle I’ve had to lie on pavement, in a long time. When I turned 40, Mrs. Jake purchased a
Handy Lift brand hydraulic lift for me on a birthday IIRC, so I could ride my motorcycle up the ramp then use compressed air to lift the whole shebang, just so I didn’t;t have to lie on the ground any longer when servicing any of the bikes & scooters I owned at the time. I still have the lift but I haven’t used it in a while, despite the fact I own and ride two other (two wheeled) motor scooters presently. If I’m not mistaken, Handy Lift offers wings that can be added, one on each side of this air operated hydraulic lift. With a little luck, the wings just might add enough width so this lift can raise my Spyder (Cretin Girl). I’m not certain this can be done but, I do have fingers on both hands crossed so that perhaps by the time the next oil change is required for Cretin Girl, I’ll be able to run her up on the lift

As to the OP & his desire to use a suction device to remove oil, I recall purchasing several small displacement 4 stroke motors outfitted in various contraptions to make life easier on our farm. The last such motor propelled a vacuum on wheels used to suck up leaves. The brand name of this leaf vacuum is Billy Goat and it actually works quite well but, the motor and this rig was sold after the last administration that decided they would legislate any motors used on garden type devices, would no longer utilize a drain plug on the bottom of the crankcase. This idiotic idea came about so as to cut down on oil leakage into the ground water. Yes, supposedly we are so stupid that we can’t be trusted to tighten an oil drain plug so the powers that be eliminated the drain plug, forcing the removal of the crankcase oil through the same orifice used to fill the crankcase. And if this exercise wasn’t idiotic enough, the public is told to use a crankcase suction device (like the one you are considering using to remove oil on a 1330 Can Am motor) to accomplish oil removal. Up to this point, I have refused to use a suction device for that purpose, rather i have simply run the fuel tank dry and with the motor hot, flipped the entire machines upside down to let the crankcase oil drain through the oil fill opening. Gravity works well in these situations though I don't advise following suit with your Spyder or F3



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while
 
Not Recommended

Has anyone used a suction pump to draw the oil out of a 1330 during an oil change? I'm wondering if it could be done through the dipstick port.

Not with my Spyder. Remove the Oil Drain Plugs is the only way to go.
 
The main issue with a boat is the engine is a wet sump system, i.e., an oil pan that holds all the oil less that in the filter. The Spyder is a dry sump system wherein the suction tube goes only into the separate but integral oil tank and cannot reach the oil that drains back into the crankcase or the clutch cover.

I think we said the same thing, it's not a good idea!:cheers:
 
I just drive the front up on car ramps to change the oil. Easy peasey. Easier than my Ski Doo 1200 Rotax 4 stroke sleds with a dry sump motor and my HD on a center on frame bike jack.
Getting up and down from the floor is another story, at 67 I'm getting slower and making those ''noises'' getting up LOL
 
I just drive the front up on car ramps to change the oil. Easy peasey. Easier than my Ski Doo 1200 Rotax 4 stroke sleds with a dry sump motor and my HD on a center on frame bike jack.
Getting up and down from the floor is another story, at 67 I'm getting slower and making those ''noises'' getting up LOL
Still means you need to get down to the floor, even if not 'on' the floor. We often do make light of the problem of getting up and down, but you know, it really is not a laughing matter.
 
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