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The oil plug- Murphy showed up today.

I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug. I ordered the upgraded oil plugs from value accessories. I am hoping an easy-out will grip the plug enough to remove it. Those darn BRP engineers should be fired. Even an experienced mechanic can run into this problem.

Update: easy-out took the plug right out. It was very tight. I must have been extra strong the last time I changed the oil. All fixed forever now!
IMG_20230505_140312285.jpgIMG_20230505_140317067.jpg
 
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I've always been concerned with the torque needed for a liquid seal using metal washers with aluminum and instead use NBR metal bonded sealing washers at the low end of the torque range. Other members also use them.

Best wishes for plug removal.
 
I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug. I ordered the upgraded oil plugs from value accessories. I am hoping an easy-out will grip the plug enough to remove it. Those darn BRP engineers should be fired. Even an experienced mechanic can run into this problem.

If you are replacing the plug anyway, you can drill the plug deep enough to set the easy-out. Harbor Freight even has left-handed drill bits so not to make the problem any worse.
Chip
 
Many problems have been observed by torquing the oil plugs. Just hand tighten the plugs and then 1/4 turn with a wrench.
 
I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug. I ordered the upgraded oil plugs from value accessories. I am hoping an easy-out will grip the plug enough to remove it. Those darn BRP engineers should be fired. Even an experienced mechanic can run into this problem.

I also had to use a easy-out. I did not have to drill the plug, just tapped it in and removed it.
 
Jack it up high enough to get a short swing with a hammer. Take the plastic under there off, if it is in the way. You can tap the edges of the plug with a small cold chisel, or maybe a center punch ground to a small flat on the end. The stuck plug should begin to turn. Be sure you are tapping in the right direction. It is upside down. I have took lots of them out like that, not just on Spyders, but on all kind of vehicles. Don't need to hit it hard, just steady tapping. Hitting it too hard will cut the edges off the plug. You don't want to cut into the plug, just tap hard enough to keep a bump pressure in the direction to remove the plug.

I use the fiber sandwich washers on the oil plugs. The fiber washers are for oil drain plugs on many foreign cars. You can get a whole box of them for a couple dollars. Just hand tight is plenty on the oil plugs. If it is leaking, you will be able to see the oil drops under it. Never had one leak just hand tight with a 3/8 shorty ratchet.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=x+autoha...+washers+fiber+sandwich,aps,95&ref=nb_sb_noss

14.5 x 17.7 x 1.2 mm
12.4 x 17.7 x 1.2 mm
 
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Thanks for advice on this. I had a mechanic change oil last time and he said he had trouble so I was wondering about the easy out. I have replacement plugs so I'm prepared there.
 
Use oil extractor on Spyder?

I owned a fancy car that recommended, almost demanded, I use an oil suction extractor for changing oil instead of the drain plug. I'd never thought about it, but inboard boat motors have a heck of a problem with oil changes... Hard to get "under" 'em. I used one of these pumps from West Marine to change oil in a variety of vehicles, including the afore mentioned fancy car. You still get messy with the filter change, but the oil change is much neater.

Of course this doesn't fix today's problem, but it does offer an end-around to the situation.

https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine-manual-oil-changer-6.9-quart-11047123.html

-- Joe B.

(new rider awaiting the arrival of a new 2022 RTL)
 
I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug. I ordered the upgraded oil plugs from value accessories. I am hoping an easy-out will grip the plug enough to remove it. Those darn BRP engineers should be fired. Even an experienced mechanic can run into this problem.

Spyders for as long as I can remember have had a Varnish issue that makes them hard to re-move ....unless you rap the socket fairly hard to break it free. ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
I owned a fancy car that recommended, almost demanded, I use an oil suction extractor for changing oil instead of the drain plug. I'd never thought about it, but inboard boat motors have a heck of a problem with oil changes... Hard to get "under" 'em. I used one of these pumps from West Marine to change oil in a variety of vehicles, including the afore mentioned fancy car. You still get messy with the filter change, but the oil change is much neater.

Of course this doesn't fix today's problem, but it does offer an end-around to the situation.

https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine-manual-oil-changer-6.9-quart-11047123.html

-- Joe B.

(new rider awaiting the arrival of a new 2022 RTL)

How do you get the suction tube through the drain galleries into the lower sump?
 
Oil Drain

:chat:...Well folks the only way to get all or most of the Oil out is to remove the drain plug. The Spyder Engine has several compartments.Trying to get out the Oil with a suction tool just doesn't work. So Sorry to say.

Do yourself a favor and carefully read your manual. Then you should not have to many issues. Just wanted everyone to know and understand about Oil drain problems.

Stay Healthy and Be Safe. ....:thumbup:
 
I got lucky, I just did an oil change a couple weeks ago and had gotten the "standard" replacement plugs from Lamonster. The torx plug was no issue, but the allen plug was almost rounded out. They're both out now and replaced.
 
Got my torque values reversed (Duh) and striped the trans plug, thought I would have to get out the ez outs. I was able to remove it with my fingers. No tools needed.
 
If you are replacing the plug anyway, you can drill the plug deep enough to set the easy-out. Harbor Freight even has left-handed drill bits so not to make the problem any worse.
Chip
Even though I have a Harbor Freight within a few minutes of my house, I have found that not everybody is similarly blessed.

However, ... I have also seen left-handed drill bits at Auto Zone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, etc. THEY are on just about every street corner.

.
 
I had the same problem on my 2010 RS SE5, but the Allen head that stripped out was on the bottom of the engine. Fortunately there was like a 16th of an inch that I was able to get a pair of vice grips on and knock it loose. I replaced that plug, as well as the HCM plug with Gold Plugs that have a hex head for sockets. I agree with you about the “engineer” that designed the OEM system. I have an intense dislike for engineers. Everything is amazing on paper drawings, but they haven’t a clue about what we go through in the real world.
 
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