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Trailer hitch removal - can I just slide out the hitch thru-bolt without causing issues - 2022 RT Limited?

1Vetteman

New member
I want to remove the trailer hitch that was on my recently purchased 2022 RT.

Can I slide the through bolt (axle) that holds the hitch in place without some kind of support to keep the rear wheel in place and not cause belt alignment/tension issues? I don’t want parts to go flying because of ignorance on my part.

After 53 years on Harleys I’m pretty well versed on them, but the Spyder is new territory for me.
 
I want to remove the trailer hitch that was on my recently purchased 2022 RT.

Can I slide the through bolt (axle) that holds the hitch in place without some kind of support to keep the rear wheel in place and not cause belt alignment/tension issues? I don’t want parts to go flying because of ignorance on my part.

After 53 years on Harleys I’m pretty well versed on them, but the Spyder is new territory for me.
Yes, remove hitch is easy, rear wheel will not move if you don't loosen the 36mm nut on the main hollow axle.
 
Yes, remove hitch is easy, rear wheel will not move if you don't loosen the 36mm nut on the main hollow axle.
Thanks for your reply. When the hitch was installed it comes with a longer bolt which is also the axle to compensate for the additional width of the hitch.

I have the original hollow axle to replace the longer bolt/axle.

There are a series of photos on the LaMonster website showing long bolt removal but I don't see anything being supported in any of the photos.
 
Thanks for your reply. When the hitch was installed it comes with a longer bolt which is also the axle to compensate for the additional width of the hitch.

I have the original hollow axle to replace the longer bolt/axle.

There are a series of photos on the LaMonster website showing long bolt removal but I don't see anything being supported in any of the photos.
OK the hitch must be different for the earlier Spyders up to 2019.
 
Thanks for your reply. When the hitch was installed it comes with a longer bolt which is also the axle to compensate for the additional width of the hitch.

I have the original hollow axle to replace the longer bolt/axle.

There are a series of photos on the LaMonster website showing long bolt removal but I don't see anything being supported in any of the photos.
No, you have that incorrect. The hitch bolt is NOT the axle. The main axle is hollow and is already there hidden by the hitch. The hitch bolt simply goes through the center of the axle. The axle pulls the hitch bolt, which in turn pulls the hitch. Remove the hitch bolt nut. Pull out the hitch bolt from the left side. Right now, the 36mm nut holding the axle is hiding behind the hitch on the right side. It is untouched. Slide the hitch off of the swing arms. Then you’ll see how it works. That other hollow axle you have must be the one with the hole that was too small.
 
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Thanks for your reply. When the hitch was installed it comes with a longer bolt which is also the axle to compensate for the additional width of the hitch.

I have the original hollow axle to replace the longer bolt/axle.

There are a series of photos on the LaMonster website showing long bolt removal but I don't see anything being supported in any of the photos.
Around the year 2022-2023 BRP was sending out there new machines with axles that would not allow the hitch bolt to go through, so a new axle had to be gotten to have the hitch attach properly.

"YOU DO NOT HAVE TO EXCHANGE THE AXLE "
 
No, you have that incorrect. The hitch bolt is NOT the axle. The main axle is hollow and is already there hidden by the hitch. The hitch bolt simply goes through the center of the axle. The axle pulls the hitch bolt, which in turn pulls the hitch. Remove the hitch bolt nut. Pull out the hitch bolt from the left side. Right now, the 36mm nut holding the axle is hiding behind the hitch on the right side. It is untouched. Slide the hitch off of the swing arms. Then you’ll see how it works. That other hollow axle you have must be the one with the hole that was too small.

Thank you for setting me straight, it’s very much appreciated!


Around the year 2022-2023 BRP was sending out there new machines with axles that would not allow the hitch bolt to go through, so a new axle had to be gotten to have the hitch attach properly.

"YOU DO NOT HAVE TO EXCHANGE THE AXLE "

Thank you for your reply, there was a hollow axle, 2 flat washers, a nut, and 2 plastic caps in the right saddlebag. So I assumed wrongly that the long hitch bolt replaced the hollow axle. I’ll be listing the hitch in the for sale section.
 
And move the carter key back to the main axle.
I removed my hitch from my 2019 F3L last week and I was going to place the key back through the axle. However, the axle only had a single hole in one side of the hollow axle, not on the other side. Thus, the key couldn’t go all the way through. I thought this was odd, but maybe there is something I am missing?

Poasttown 2019 F3L
 
Not missing anything. BRP did away with the cotter pin about that model year time frame. It was useless anyway. My axle is the same. One hole. Although why they even bother drilling one hole is baffling.
 
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Since we are talking hitches. I have a 2018 Spyder RT limited. It looks like the hitch install is pretty simple on this bike. I am just wondering how much it is being used if you have a hitch or a trailer and how those pull. There is a quite a bit of storage on the Spyder, but it seems to me that weight off the bike and in the trailer would be better, i.e. a 100 pound pack sure seems to be easier to pull in a wagon rather than strap it on. They are also all over the map in terms of cost, but they look so similar, I just wonder if there are real quality issues to contend with these? Thank you for any input on this question.
 
Since we are talking hitches. I have a 2018 Spyder RT limited. It looks like the hitch install is pretty simple on this bike. I am just wondering how much it is being used if you have a hitch or a trailer and how those pull. There is a quite a bit of storage on the spider, but it seems to me that weight off the bike and in the trailer would be better, i.e. a 100 pound pack, sure seems to be easier to pull in a wagon rather than strap it on. They are also all over the map in terms of cost, but they look so similar, I just wonder if there are real quality issues to contend with these. Thank you for any input on this question.

I have a 2014 RTL with a hitch. I use trailers extensively with any vehicle I have, even including a 1985 BMW 318i because I can do so many more things with a trailer than just the vehicle alone (even with extensive use of roof racks). So, it was a natural for me in buying a long-legged touring machine to prepare for the inevitable and get a hitch.

The OEM hitch is well-designed, and basically puts all the stress on the rear axle rather than the frame or a body part, which is the case with most bikes I've known about. The advantages of this are several and probably obvious to anyone who has towed trailers extensively and has taken the time to understand the dynamics of trailering using add-on hitches.

The one big drawback is this; the axle is "unsprung" meaning that all of the vibration and jarring motion transmitted from the road to the wheel is going to be transmitted to the trailer tongue without the benefit of being absorbed by the bike's suspension. A case of beer in a cooler mounted to the trailer tongue is likely going to be a frothy mess by the time you pull into a campsite for the night! Keep vibration sensitive cargo centered over the trailer's wheels and you'll be okay.

I've towed pet trailers, cargo trailers, and a fully loaded camping trailer with no problems at all, although after our last camping trip in the mountains, I became concerned about brake fade and so invested in a complete set of EBC brake pads and rotors (which I have yet to install because a double knee surgery laid me up for a long while and I'm only just now getting back into the idea of long distance touring again).

I hope that helps. Please ask follow up questions as needed.
 
I have a 2014 RTL with a hitch. I use trailers extensively with any vehicle I have, even including a 1985 BMW 318i because I can do so many more things with a trailer than just the vehicle alone (even with extensive use of roof racks). So, it was a natural for me in buying a long-legged touring machine to prepare for the inevitable and get a hitch.

The OEM hitch is well-designed, and basically puts all the stress on the rear axle rather than the frame or a body part, which is the case with most bikes I've known about. The advantages of this are several and probably obvious to anyone who has towed trailers extensively and has taken the time to understand the dynamics of trailering using add-on hitches.

The one big drawback is this; the axle is "unsprung" meaning that all of the vibration and jarring motion transmitted from the road to the wheel is going to be transmitted to the trailer tongue without the benefit of being absorbed by the bike's suspension. A case of beer in a cooler mounted to the trailer tongue is likely going to be a frothy mess by the time you pull into a campsite for the night! Keep vibration sensitive cargo centered over the trailer's wheels and you'll be okay.

I've towed pet trailers, cargo trailers, and a fully loaded camping trailer with no problems at all, although after our last camping trip in the mountains, I became concerned about brake fade and so invested in a complete set of EBC brake pads and rotors (which I have yet to install because a double knee surgery laid me up for a long while and I'm only just now getting back into the idea of long distance touring again).

I hope that helps. Please ask follow up questions as needed.
Thank you for the feedback Utah. it was enough to convince me to go ahead with a hitch installation and then if I need or want to go this way, it's there. I appreciate your post.
 
Has anyone used a Show Chrome part number 41-164 on their 2018 Spyder RT. The 164 part number only runs up to 2014. After that the 264 part number is for this bike, I think from 2015 - 2019. When I called Show Chrome, they thought the 164 part number might fit, but they could not tell me the differences of the "upgraded" 264 kit/hitch. Would appreciate any assistance or feedback on this hitch issue. Thank you.
 
I ordered the Show Chrome part number 41-164 because I trust Show Chrome quality. It was very reasonably priced at just about $100 with shipping, it allows return, and I have already communicated with the seller. I appreciate your input @blacklightning. I do not know the difference between the two part numbers... but I called Show Chrome directly and they could not tell me either. Both look VERY similar, so I think what @blacklightning is saying will apply here, either kit will work. I do know I like the long bolt being not being the threaded rod that you see on the less expensive hitches. I am sure those will work fine, but the solid rod with the threads on the end just seems a more well designed application. Thank you for the input.
 
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