I know that the details of installing the wiring harness is on this sight,but I can't find it. The instructions would be for a 2014 RT. Thanks! I am finishing the build on a cargo trailer and have purchased the Can-Am harness,but the instructions are in French and the photos are not very good.Any help with all that needs to removed so that I can plug in the wiring harness and get the lights working will be appreciated. My wife and I are leaving for Tn. on Wed. morning for a camping trip. I am still adding corner trim and building a side opening access door to the trailer. I looked last night,but after ten hours in the garage,I probably overloked it.
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trailer lights wiring harness
- Thread starter sassoman
- Start date
I figured it out
After finishing our trailer today,it became time to hook up the lights and install the trailer wiring harness. I looked at the instructions that came with them and remembered that I can't read French and that the crappy pictures were not going to help so I just started taking things apart until I found the connector. I plugged in the factory harness and there was just enough room to run the the harnessdown through the body work and to the swing arm. All together the time to install the the hitch and the harness was a little over an hour. Considering the dealer in Ocala,Fl. quoted me $ 600.00 for the installation. anyone in the central Fl. area who has a 2014 Rt and would like there hitch and harness installed ,I would be happy to give them a hand. I hate that a dealer would want to rip someone off like that.
After finishing our trailer today,it became time to hook up the lights and install the trailer wiring harness. I looked at the instructions that came with them and remembered that I can't read French and that the crappy pictures were not going to help so I just started taking things apart until I found the connector. I plugged in the factory harness and there was just enough room to run the the harnessdown through the body work and to the swing arm. All together the time to install the the hitch and the harness was a little over an hour. Considering the dealer in Ocala,Fl. quoted me $ 600.00 for the installation. anyone in the central Fl. area who has a 2014 Rt and would like there hitch and harness installed ,I would be happy to give them a hand. I hate that a dealer would want to rip someone off like that.
jwulf74
New member
In theory the wiring shouldn't;t be that hard... probably take longer to get the panels on and off. The factory harness come with the plugs and everything so just unplug the connectors on the bike back by the left saddlebag, plug in the Y and isolator and be sure to route it so it won't dangle into the belt or back tire.
I made a custom harness for ours and just Posi-tapped into where the factory harness would go. It was actually pretty easy and now on our 2010 trailer I have back up lights, amber turn signals, brakes and running lights all working properly. Took a 6 wire setup to do it and a little wire jumping and swapped out the amber bulbs with clear bulbs to get the reverse lights to work, but nothing major. The older trailers can do this but the newer ones don't have bulbs or connectors in the clear parts of the tail lights.
If you aren't afraid to pull the panels, you should be able to plug the BRP harness in no problem and save yourself a pile of cash.
Good luck with whichever way you go! :thumbup:
I made a custom harness for ours and just Posi-tapped into where the factory harness would go. It was actually pretty easy and now on our 2010 trailer I have back up lights, amber turn signals, brakes and running lights all working properly. Took a 6 wire setup to do it and a little wire jumping and swapped out the amber bulbs with clear bulbs to get the reverse lights to work, but nothing major. The older trailers can do this but the newer ones don't have bulbs or connectors in the clear parts of the tail lights.
If you aren't afraid to pull the panels, you should be able to plug the BRP harness in no problem and save yourself a pile of cash.
Good luck with whichever way you go! :thumbup:
jwulf74
New member
Wiring update
Alrighty, our trailer hitch finally came in so I could complete the wiring project. I started off by identifying the wiring colors in the trailer which was conveniently labeled under the left front where the wired enter the inside of the trailer. There are 2 color sets. The first is the harness wire that runs to the bike, the second is the wiring inside the trailer. I will post all the color cross references in a second post.
Here are the wires going in and tie up underneath. I used posi-taps to tie into the blinkers, brakes and reverse. I ran a dedicated ground and dedicated power on a relay that is triggered only when the bike is on. All of the wires are in the harness back on the left side by the battery (on the older RT's anyway) and are in the harness that you would normally put the BRP T-harness on. I probably left way too much on as it will reach back to the ball hitch but the trailer wires will actually reach all the way to where I had them tied. Oh well. Wire is easy to tie up but darn near impossible to stretch.
I got 4' sections of heat shrink off Amazon and pulled my wires through that to protect my custom harness. It was a trick but I got them all lines and bundled tightly as possible and wire tied them every 6 inches or so and cut the ties as I got it fed through... not an easy task but worth it to have a professional looking and protected harness.
Here are the relays in the trailer. I put the relays in the trailer because there is more room, but also because I wired both of our Sypders to pull it and made an adapter so we can pull it with the truck if needed. The relays I ordered had "tongue and groove" slots so they connected to each other which was handy. The Power one goes in the Spyder with a fused link to the battery. I didn't get a picture of the install on that one though.
Attachment limit is 5 pics so to be continued...
Alrighty, our trailer hitch finally came in so I could complete the wiring project. I started off by identifying the wiring colors in the trailer which was conveniently labeled under the left front where the wired enter the inside of the trailer. There are 2 color sets. The first is the harness wire that runs to the bike, the second is the wiring inside the trailer. I will post all the color cross references in a second post.
Here are the wires going in and tie up underneath. I used posi-taps to tie into the blinkers, brakes and reverse. I ran a dedicated ground and dedicated power on a relay that is triggered only when the bike is on. All of the wires are in the harness back on the left side by the battery (on the older RT's anyway) and are in the harness that you would normally put the BRP T-harness on. I probably left way too much on as it will reach back to the ball hitch but the trailer wires will actually reach all the way to where I had them tied. Oh well. Wire is easy to tie up but darn near impossible to stretch.
I got 4' sections of heat shrink off Amazon and pulled my wires through that to protect my custom harness. It was a trick but I got them all lines and bundled tightly as possible and wire tied them every 6 inches or so and cut the ties as I got it fed through... not an easy task but worth it to have a professional looking and protected harness.Here are the relays in the trailer. I put the relays in the trailer because there is more room, but also because I wired both of our Sypders to pull it and made an adapter so we can pull it with the truck if needed. The relays I ordered had "tongue and groove" slots so they connected to each other which was handy. The Power one goes in the Spyder with a fused link to the battery. I didn't get a picture of the install on that one though.
Attachment limit is 5 pics so to be continued...
Last edited:
jwulf74
New member
Wiring update2
I swapped out one set of amber bulbs for clear ones so I could have reverse lights. The trailer was actually wired for reverse all the way back to the lights, but BRP skipped putting the wire in the last harness. I just cut the lead before the harness and before the light and put in a jumper. The lights are not lit up in the pic but you should be able to see the clear and amber bulbs.
One last pic that would not fit in the previous post... This is the trailer harness. Since it was a 2010 trailer it had the big round plug on it. I just cut that off and wired on 2 weatherpack 3 towers and went that way. If I recall right, it had a left brake and right brake but I combined those into 1. For anyone replicating, you can use a 6 tower or a 3 and a 4 or whatever you want. Just make sure they are weather proof connectors.
I swapped out one set of amber bulbs for clear ones so I could have reverse lights. The trailer was actually wired for reverse all the way back to the lights, but BRP skipped putting the wire in the last harness. I just cut the lead before the harness and before the light and put in a jumper. The lights are not lit up in the pic but you should be able to see the clear and amber bulbs.
One last pic that would not fit in the previous post... This is the trailer harness. Since it was a 2010 trailer it had the big round plug on it. I just cut that off and wired on 2 weatherpack 3 towers and went that way. If I recall right, it had a left brake and right brake but I combined those into 1. For anyone replicating, you can use a 6 tower or a 3 and a 4 or whatever you want. Just make sure they are weather proof connectors.
jwulf74
New member
Wire color and function
Here are the wire colors:
In the Spyder:
Pin 1 - Brown - Right Flash
Pin 2 - Pink - Reverse
Pin 3 - White - Brake
Pin 4 - Orange - Switched Power (used to trigger the main power relay)
Pin 5 - Black - Ground (I didn't use this one - I ran a dedicated heavier gauge ground)
Pin 6 and 7 and 9 - empty
Pin 8 - Orange with Pink Stripe - Constant Power (not tapped)
Pin 10 - Gray - Left Flash
Wire Harness on outside of trailer (to go to Spyder)
Black - Ground
Brown - Running Lights (labeled as Position)
Red - Right Brake
Orange - Left Brake
Yellow - Reverse
Green - Right Blinker/Flasher
Blue - Left Blinker/Flasher
Inside the Trailer:
Black - Ground
Orange - Running Lights
White - Right Brake
White with Black Stripe - Left Brake
Pink with Yellow Stripe - Reverse
Brown with Yellow Stripe - Right Flasher
Gray with Pink Stripe - Left Flasher
My Custom Harness (6 lines into 2 3-tower weatherpack connectors. 3 lines get a Male connector and 3 get the female connector - no way to get them mixed up - just remember to do them opposite between the trailer and Spyder and watch the pinouts)
Black - Ground
Red - Running Lights
White - Brakes (Tied both Left and Right into the Brake Relay)
Yellow - Reverse
Green - Right Blinker/Flasher
Blue - Left Blinker/Flasher
Video to follow maybe, if I can get that figured out...
Here are the wire colors:
In the Spyder:
Pin 1 - Brown - Right Flash
Pin 2 - Pink - Reverse
Pin 3 - White - Brake
Pin 4 - Orange - Switched Power (used to trigger the main power relay)
Pin 5 - Black - Ground (I didn't use this one - I ran a dedicated heavier gauge ground)
Pin 6 and 7 and 9 - empty
Pin 8 - Orange with Pink Stripe - Constant Power (not tapped)
Pin 10 - Gray - Left Flash
Wire Harness on outside of trailer (to go to Spyder)
Black - Ground
Brown - Running Lights (labeled as Position)
Red - Right Brake
Orange - Left Brake
Yellow - Reverse
Green - Right Blinker/Flasher
Blue - Left Blinker/Flasher
Inside the Trailer:
Black - Ground
Orange - Running Lights
White - Right Brake
White with Black Stripe - Left Brake
Pink with Yellow Stripe - Reverse
Brown with Yellow Stripe - Right Flasher
Gray with Pink Stripe - Left Flasher
My Custom Harness (6 lines into 2 3-tower weatherpack connectors. 3 lines get a Male connector and 3 get the female connector - no way to get them mixed up - just remember to do them opposite between the trailer and Spyder and watch the pinouts)
Black - Ground
Red - Running Lights
White - Brakes (Tied both Left and Right into the Brake Relay)
Yellow - Reverse
Green - Right Blinker/Flasher
Blue - Left Blinker/Flasher
Video to follow maybe, if I can get that figured out...
metman
New member
2012 RT-S with 2010 Trailer
My '12 RT-S came with the 4-square plug on the bike, but the '10 trailer had the 7 wire round harness. I picked up a 4 square trailer harness off eBay for $20 and married it to the trailer wiring. The trailer had amber bulbs in both of the clear sections of both of the light housings, but they weren't wired to anything. I replaced all four of those amber bulbs with red LED lamps and wired them to the brake/turn signal wiring.
In conjunction with the HMT brake light on the trunk, when I step on that brake pedal the rear lights up so it can't be missed! And making sure others see us is very important to me.
Mike in KY
PS. On the way to Spyderfest, I lost left side brake/turn function on the trailer someplace in Utah. Two dealers on the way diagnosed the problem to be the trailer light module, but neither had one on hand. Those fabulous guys at the BRP service trailer replaced the module and added an additional ground wire from the trailer harness to the steel trailer frame. Said that should keep static charges from blowing the module.
My '12 RT-S came with the 4-square plug on the bike, but the '10 trailer had the 7 wire round harness. I picked up a 4 square trailer harness off eBay for $20 and married it to the trailer wiring. The trailer had amber bulbs in both of the clear sections of both of the light housings, but they weren't wired to anything. I replaced all four of those amber bulbs with red LED lamps and wired them to the brake/turn signal wiring.
In conjunction with the HMT brake light on the trunk, when I step on that brake pedal the rear lights up so it can't be missed! And making sure others see us is very important to me.
Mike in KY
PS. On the way to Spyderfest, I lost left side brake/turn function on the trailer someplace in Utah. Two dealers on the way diagnosed the problem to be the trailer light module, but neither had one on hand. Those fabulous guys at the BRP service trailer replaced the module and added an additional ground wire from the trailer harness to the steel trailer frame. Said that should keep static charges from blowing the module.
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