Trailering Front Attach

[Revalden]

I've got one more thing to add to the check list. Put a big ass socket/wrench on the trailer BALL before hitching up the trailer. MAKE SURE IT'S FREEKIN' TIGHT. Many, many moons ago we were moving from Calif to Oregon driving a 64 Ford Galaxy Wagon pulling a U-Haul covered trailer. Just as night falls the generator, not alternator, goes out. So, driving on battery power only I find an auto parts store but its closed, so we sleep in the car until store open the next morning. I buy new gen slap it on, go in to give them the old one. Coming out of store, ready to leave, I step on trailer tongue and it bounces. I look under and the ball bolt was still there but only by one thread. :yikes: Could've been a disaster for us. God looks after me, and I thank Him every day for watching out for my dumb ass.

 

[bushrat]

I've got one more thing to add to the check list. Put a big ass socket/wrench on the trailer BALL before hitching up the trailer. MAKE SURE IT'S FREEKIN' TIGHT. Many, many moons ago we were moving from Calif to Oregon driving a 64 Ford Galaxy Wagon pulling a U-Haul covered trailer. Just as night falls the generator, not alternator, goes out. So, driving on battery power only I find an auto parts store but its closed, so we sleep in the car until store open the next morning. I buy new gen slap it on, go in to give them the old one. Coming out of store, ready to leave, I step on trailer tongue and it bounces. I look under and the ball bolt was still there but only by one thread. :yikes: Could've been a disaster for us. God looks after me, and I thank Him every day for watching out for my dumb ass.

Revalden, hate to admit/recall it, but I'm guilty of that one too - not ensuring that the nut & bolt on the ball on my draw bar was drawn up tight. In my case, the nut dropped off the bolt, the ball popped out of the draw bar (still locked in the jaw of the coupler), the trailer began to sway, and I was only saved by the safety chains. Thankfully, I was only doing about 20 mph on a city street, near home and the trailer was empty. An hour earlier, I had been 40 highway miles away, dropping off my Spyder for service; that nut began working itself off just after I unloaded the Spyder. Scary to think that the last time I had used the trailer just previous to that day was my 1500 mile trip north on I-75. You just never know when bad things are gonna try to jump up and bite ya in the butt. The Spyder and I dodged a bullet that day. I put the draw bar in a bench vise and torqued the nut double tight with a large pipe wrench, after also adding a bunch of loctite.

Thanks for the "add" to the check list; very, very important!!!

 

[Joel The Biker]

The tire straps are super. Very secure.

Any time we secure a bike we use some sort of "happy straps" somewhere below the suspension, if at all possible. These are available at most auto supply or farm equipment store, like Rural King or Tractor supply.

Hook the strap through the 'eye' of your tie-down strap and then back over the s-hook. This eliminates the s-hook coming off if you hot a bump that causes slack in the strap.

Dont ever do this! It almost guarantees the strap will break. If you want to ensure the hook does not come off, they sell straps with a safety clasp. Never tie a knot in your straps!

 

[Joel The Biker]

I use a special 2 foot tie-down strap that is choked around the lower front control arms. Ratchet straps are then attached to the straps, crisscrossed to the opposite sides. This emsures the spyder cant move side to side or rearward. Another strap is also attached to rear corner of trailer, around rear tire, then to opposite rear corner of trailer. This also ensures the spyder cant move side to side or forward.

 

[wilpir]

I used the eye bolt method cross country..never moved an inch worked great! No problems with suspension

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Coming out of store, ready to leave, I step on trailer tongue and it bounces. I look under and the ball bolt was still there but only by one thread.

At least mine was still on by several threads but it sure was loose when I found it while stopped at a rest area. This was the ball on my Spyder hitch while coming cross country on I-70. Don't remember what I used to tighten it up at the rest area and then borrowed a big ass crescent wrench from some construction guys near the hotel that evening. After I got home I drilled a hole through the stud of the ball and put a latch clip on it. Now if the nut does come loose at least it can't come all the way off.

 

[Big F]

I'm put many 1000's of miles trailering my Spyders using a strap thru the rim and NOT one single issue of any kind...
BIG F

 

[Big F]

they are called "chocks"...
BIG F

 

[Bike-O-Din]

Just in case you want to do the eye nut (that is what I have been doing for years), it is available on amazon and other places. Here are the specs to search for: 10 mm (3/8") Metric Din 582 Eye Nut Stainless Steel

I have the SuperClamps as well, so I only use the eyes attached to short straps just as a "fail-safe" so they are not the primary thing holding the bike in place.

 

[ISPYD]

True God looks over us and thanks for the tip

 

[Tango]

We used towels through the wheel spokes. Then the strap making sure it stays on the towel. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

 

[triplethreat]

Not mine pictured, but I use the exact same thing......e track for both front wheels, heavy duty ratchet straps that connect directly to the e track, roller on the back side of the tire, ratchet device to pull the strap down. When done correctly, the strapping over the tire is in the shape of an upside down "C".

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Not mine pictured, but I use the exact same thing......e track for both front wheels, heavy duty ratchet straps that connect directly to the e track, roller on the back side of the tire, ratchet device to pull the strap down. When done correctly, the strapping over the tire is in the shape of an upside down "C".

I introduced this method here, many years ago ..... this is the method used by Professional Haulers of very expensive cars ..... those haulers do it this way because they are liable for any damage to the vehicles they move .... and this method guarantees NO damage to Any part of the vehicle being moved - Period ..... Thanks for the pic ...... Mike

 

[jaherbst]

Can't teach a new dog old tricks eh?

through the wheel works perfect
0 stress on machine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk

You are correct dlby. Never attach tie down straps to any suspension or cross tie the front rims. I probably have as much trailering both Spyder's and Motorcycles as any one on here due to physical limitations. Yep I have made as many mistakes (costly) as anyone also. Now if I could just remember all the things I have learned with all this experience ("I would be in like Flynn")!

Mike has a petty good system but I would cross tie the rear rim to keep it from walking to one side or another. I finally spent a little and bought SuperClamps. Wow what a great product! Drive it on, front wheels clamp down automatically and two small simple straps tied forward from onto e rail. Never have to do anything but bend at the waist twice. I have texted several pictures of my set up to members but not sure these are available except from the SupeClamp factory in B.C. CA NA DA I paid $380. Best money I ever spent.

Jack

Jack

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You are correct dlby. Never attach tie down straps to any suspension or cross tie the front rims. I probably have as much trailering both Spyder's and Motorcycles as any one on here due to physical limitations. Yep I have made as many mistakes (costly) as anyone also. Now if I could just remember all the things I have learned with all this experience ("I would be in like Flynn")!

Mike has a petty good system but I would cross tie the rear rim to keep it from walking to one side or another. I finally spent a little and bought SuperClamps. Wow what a great product! Drive it on, front wheels clamp down automatically and two small simple straps tied forward from onto e rail. Never have to do anything but bend at the waist twice. I have texted several pictures of my set up to members but not sure these are available except from the SupeClamp factory in B.C. CA NA DA I paid $380. Best money I ever spent.

Jack

Jack

The Superclamps probably work fine maybe even Great .... however they are lot more than my $10.00 Rachet strap .................and a simple block of 2 x4 screwed to the floor will prevent any remote possibility of side creep ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[ChicagoSpyder]

Through the rims works for me, the only thing missing in the pics is the microcloth I use between the rim and the strap. I use shock straps on the SxS because of the amount of suspension travel and spring in the tires. I've hauled toys all across North America for the past 35 years, I don't like my stuff to move and I don't want any compromised suspension or steering components.

 

[jaherbst]

Through the rims works for me, the only thing missing in the pics is the microcloth I use between the rim and the strap. I use shock straps on the SxS because of the amount of suspension travel and spring in the tires. I've hauled toys all across North America for the past 35 years, I don't like my stuff to move and I don't want any compromised suspension or steering components.

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All the right stuff! Thats how I used to do it till I bought the SuperClamps.

Jack

 

[Big F]

I've been trailering for years with 3 different Spyders and nary a problem by strapping thru the tire rims to I-bolts located on the outside front of the floor of the trailer. I also have chocks bolted to the floor of the trailer for the front wheels and are located for even weight distribution also..
BIG F