For Teleman58, Appkrill, and FrogmanDave: could you provide more details about what the actual differences and improvements in handling and ride, etc.
And for askitee: what were the multiple problems solved by different shocks? And which ones?
Thanks!
Have a 2014 RTL. Stock suspension with the original Baja Ron sway bar when bought. Rear suspension not really an issue unless you find your Spyder bottoming out, then upgrade to a 550/600 lb-in rear spring. There is a thread on this forum regarding this upgrade.
As for the front, it's a combination of shocks and sway bar.
Sway bar comes into play when you are cornering, not the sweepers as such, but turns - such as at an intersection, cloverleafs, and such. Can only make a sway bar for the Spyder a certain size, if it was meant to take everything into consideration, it did it would be huge. Sway bar does not affect road clearance, shocks do. Upgraded shocks with the appropriate shock spring rate for your quality of ride and Spyder performance (will never be a canyon carve like a two wheel) is what you want combined with the upgraded sway bar. It's a two part system, sway bar does "X", upgraded/replacement shocks do "X+Y".
Benefits with front shocks with the appropriate shock spring installed and valved for this shock spring, significantly reduces roll/lean on sweeping turns, turns as mentioned, and cloverleafs, when riding two up, and solo riding. Shocks with a heavier shock spring properly valved provide as good a ride as the OEM shocks.
Snowmobiling industry has been at this for years, snowmobilers are performance addicts. The Spyder configuration is nothing new, see my avatar - late '60s early '70s.
Front shock springs properly sized maintain correct road clearance, loading the front trunk and reducing the road clearance can be compensated by adjusting shock spring preload - once the load is removed you can return to the non-loaded preload setting.
Upgraded front shocks and shock springs will assist in steering control, easier to steer the Spyder. This is because the front of the Spyder is supported by the front shocks, and the front shocks are not being overpowered by the weight of the Spyder - too much front weight for the OEM shocks. OEM shocks give a plush ride on the road, but are less than adequate for anything else that is affected by weight and weight being high.
Preload should not be used to adjust front shock stiffness. This is done with the shock damping adjustments, compression and/or rebound. OEM shocks have no adjustments.
I understand why the sway bar is recommended first, replacement/upgraded shocks are expensive. There are some intermediate fixes form Baja Ron at a more reasonable price than a new set of aftermarket shocks.
The bottom line for me is that I don't like to work hard at riding and compensating for the design of my ride. I want to work less than the machine I am riding.
I have M2 shocks all round. Front shock springs are 300 lb-in (started at 250 lb-in, 250 lb-in is a heavier spring than the OEM shock spring), thinking of going to 350 lb-in shock springs. If you are going to ride mostly 2-up, I'd definitely recommend new front shocks with a spring rate of at least 300 lb-in, probably more in the 350 lb-in range ( I like riding and letting the machine do the work) - lots of choice out there. I do not find the 300 lb-in too stiff.
Just a few thoughts on this issue. Not wanting to "make a silk purse out of a pig's ear", but do want to make my riding experience as pleasurable as possible.
Good luck.
So obviously, they're not goggles, but Doggles! 
hyea:
) who weighed in at about 4 lbs dripping wet, doesn't have his doggles on in my avatar pic (look left 
