) cos all those things can vary the toe readngs, and Toe in/out is the only readily adjustable thing you can access for alignment. 
These days, most manufacturers generally specify the Toe-In to = ZERO with the normal load aboard, but I & many others have found that our Spyders benefit from some Toe-in. For whatever good it does for you &/or your alignment tech, I use 3mm of Toe-In (1.5mm each side) at the tread for 'normal riding' & touring etc; and up that to 5mm of Toe-In for track work & ranging it thru the twisties, but then I can (& do) change & check those settings myself (using my 'home groan' laser alignment kit ) & I also swap in/out other tires for testing purposes on a fairly regular basis. ) will be getting a jack in underneath your Spyder; making sure the steering is centred & the rear tire thrust isn't skewing the front alignment too much; and finally, not having those two rear tires that most cars have to hang the reference gear on! But like I said above, a switched on tech who's got some idea of what they're doing & the time to sort it all out should be more than up to the task! And once you DO get your Spyder aligned properly, I reckon you'll be more'n just pleased with how smooth it can steer! 
hyea:
BRP &/or most dealers won't easily divulge anything in the way of alignment settings that's all that useful to you, so I wouldn't hold your breath on getting anything 'official'.
Still, if your alignment bloke is switched on as well as being skilled & competent, they should be able to set your Spyder up so that the steering is centred & pointing straight ahead according to the DPS (Power Steering) without using BUDS & then they can immobilise the handlebars/steering in that position & move on to do the alignment. :thumbup:
From there, that skilled & competent tech should be able to do the alignment taking into account the centreline (thrust) of the rear wheel as necessary, the (now centred) steering, and your normal load (rider, passenger, anything you usually carry
If your local bloke is willing to give it a go, then it's likely the major hurdles your they'll run into (besides having balancing gear to suit the little spindle hole in Spyder wheels
Good Luck! :cheers:
Well now this has been suggested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ho12zpOkAPA
My comment is
Watched the video.
He completely lost me when he said .
The measurement should be a poofteenth wider at the back than the front.
So I looked down the comments and found
The manual says Toe in should be 2MM =/- 0.5MM or 5/64 in +/- 1/64 in. Cmber should be 0 Degrees =/- 0.5 Degrees..
He apparently says poofteenth explaining its slang for a very small measure or clearance.
Gotta say for a completely non cert home mechanic I am considering making up a jig and giving it a crack.
After all. What can possibly go wrong?
) drawn parallel to the centre of each wheel's rolling direction on a flat & level surface at least 5-6m or so long with the bars fixed (maybe even strapped?) in the 'straight ahead' position; but you do need the length of run & a level surface; and you need to be EXACTLY on those lines, cos even a single mm off 'straight ahead' over 5m can rapidly become 200mm or more off over a kilometre (1000m), and that can require some annoying & continual steering corrections, hence why you should use 3 lines, one for each wheel... to reduce the risk of any one line being off! ) term for 2/5ths of 5/8ths of SFA . So IMHO setting your Toe-In to only 'one poofteenth' is probably juuust a little TOO LITTLE Toe In - from my recollection of NZed's roads, I'd suggest that 2mm Total Toe-In is probably the minimum you should be aiming for; but unless you're really keen on tight cornering input; really working the twisties; or doing a lot of track work on tires that somebody else pays for, then 3mm +/- 0.5mm is probably as much as you'll ever want... . Just remember, many 'professionals' only qualify for that title cos someone was silly enough to pay them! :roflblack:You can purchase cheaply online the 2020 F3 shop manual online which does a pretty good job of describing the alignment process with specs. It’s what I use with excellent results.
