Just wondering what you folks think of these ramps for loading? Overkill? Just right? Not enough? Was going to get 3 of these. According to Discount Ramps measurement equation, it seems an 8' ramp will do. The trailer is 6'x10' with a 20" deck height. The Spyder weighs 1000 pounds, with me an extra 200, so would a 1000 ramp in the center be enough?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
What do you think of these Ramps for loading a Spyder onto an aluminum utility trailer?
- Thread starter Uticat
- Start date
If you are concerned about the load on the centre ramp, when the Spyder is sitting still on flat, level ground, the rear tire on these Spyder things usually carries about 1/2 of the total load. Of course, that'll increase a little when you start to move up an incline, but the load on the centre ramp should still be comfortably less than the 1000 lb capacity of the ramp. 
Regarding the length of the 3 ramps, have you checked to see if the ramp over angle at the top of the ramps will belly-out the Spyder?? On Spyders from 2014 on, the Reverse gear actuator hangs down lower than everything else under the centre of the bike just in the worst possible spot for it to do that, so too much of an angle at the top of the ramp while loading/unloading can catch that actuator, bend it &/or damage it, and create all sorts of problems!! And you should also check to see if the nose of the Spyder (which projects forward of the front wheels a little) will clear the centre ramp as you roll up to it or back off?? That forward projecting snout hitting the ramp can be a bit of an issue for loading Spyders onto trailers, especially for RT's, where the nose sticks out a bit further than on the F3's.
All of which reminds me - you haven't told us in your post above which Spyder model you have, nor have you displayed that info in your Sig line as requested below
:
That sort of Spyder year/model info is usually very helpful for those answering most questions, hence the request to either detail it in every question you post; or as a much easier approach, simply add it to your sig line so that it's there for all to see in every post anyway!
Just Sayin'
Regarding the length of the 3 ramps, have you checked to see if the ramp over angle at the top of the ramps will belly-out the Spyder?? On Spyders from 2014 on, the Reverse gear actuator hangs down lower than everything else under the centre of the bike just in the worst possible spot for it to do that, so too much of an angle at the top of the ramp while loading/unloading can catch that actuator, bend it &/or damage it, and create all sorts of problems!! And you should also check to see if the nose of the Spyder (which projects forward of the front wheels a little) will clear the centre ramp as you roll up to it or back off?? That forward projecting snout hitting the ramp can be a bit of an issue for loading Spyders onto trailers, especially for RT's, where the nose sticks out a bit further than on the F3's.
All of which reminds me - you haven't told us in your post above which Spyder model you have, nor have you displayed that info in your Sig line as requested below
:
That sort of Spyder year/model info is usually very helpful for those answering most questions, hence the request to either detail it in every question you post; or as a much easier approach, simply add it to your sig line so that it's there for all to see in every post anyway!
Just Sayin'
BajaRon
Well-known member
The main thing to guard against, assuming clearance is not an issue, is the ramp kicking out and off of the trailer. Be sure the ramps cannot come off the trailer. Otherwise, you should be good to go. The Spyder is heavy, but it distributes the weight over 3 wheels. I doubt you will exceed 500 lbs. per wheel.
These ramps look like they just overlay the trailer. That will not be sufficient. You need something that latches or otherwise connects with the the trailer somehow. A 90 degree tab or lip might do the trick. You can also use something like a ratchet strap from the ramp to some point on the trailer.
These ramps look like they just overlay the trailer. That will not be sufficient. You need something that latches or otherwise connects with the the trailer somehow. A 90 degree tab or lip might do the trick. You can also use something like a ratchet strap from the ramp to some point on the trailer.
Last edited:
Snoking1127
Well-known member
My trailer's installed bifold ramp is too steep for the Spyder. So I bought a three piece folding ramp and drilled the hinges off to give me three separate ramps. I put two 1/4x20 bolts at the top in each ramp, drilled matching holes in the existing ramp, and added additional holes for two ramps when moving golf carts.
-
-
Last edited:
All very good info here. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the ramps and through the trailer where they connect. I measured the width of the front tires on the Spyder and centered the drilled holes on that measurement and secured the ramps to the trailer with a single 2" 3/8" bolt through each hole on the ramp. Nothing more. Simple and works great to prevent kick-out. To help reduce the angle, invest in a crank operated tongue jack to raise the tongue and reduce the angle. They make bolt on jacks of different sizes so you don't have to do any drilling or welding. Good luck, and hope this helps.
Bfromla
Well-known member
If drilling or straps are not an option for your ramps- consider backing up to a curb (this will also help reduce the tailgate height difference) & let the ramps reach dry grass for 'lil bite in the dirt. You might block the street for a minute, but hopefully not for too long. You just need to get it loaded, then you can manoeuvre elsewhere close by to secure it all for towing (refer to your owners manual for the proper tow points). Side note: if it's an open trailer & you cover your Spyder with any tarp or cloth, the wind flutter will scuff your paint every where it is touching.
blacklightning
Well-known member
2dogs, I agree with your idea of drilling a hole and using some sort of pin, bolt, or nail. That is what I did to my modified trailer when I have hauled my spyder. I used it twice for my F3T and recoved a buddies RT when he broke down. It worked great.
Jackhartjr
Active member
If I was using these ramps, I would have several blocks to put at the hinge at the middle of each one. The totally eliminates the possibility of a ramp breaking in two at the hinge, and takes the bounce or flex out of the trip up and down.
And be totally sure they won't move as mentioned! I was driving a John Deere lawn mower up ramps to my pickup, one slipped, and the Deere came down on me, fortunately no injuries!
And be totally sure they won't move as mentioned! I was driving a John Deere lawn mower up ramps to my pickup, one slipped, and the Deere came down on me, fortunately no injuries!
You seem to have a similar setup as mine. I also have a bi-fold rear gate on my 6x10 trailer that unfolds to 4', too steep also. How long and wide are the ramps you have? Where did you buy? Any breakover issues with clearance going up/down? Does the middle ramp clear the nose of the RT upon approach?
Thanks.
Snoking1127
Well-known member
Similar threads
- Sticky
