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What I did with my new Mission Trailer

pitzerwm

New member
I picked up a Mission Trailer and sold my 622, mainly because of the extra usable space. With the inside square it is all usable. Along with the cooler/gas can container on the tongue, I added a brake lite modulator. You can also see the extra reflective stickers, HF 10 for $7.

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Adding the netting and a bar in the lid allows some storage of stuff that you might want once in awhile. Mine is chairs and I also put my "foam mat" that I use on the ground when working on anything.
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This pix shows the gas shock connection, check these because mine weren't bent correctly so I removed 2 of them and finished the bends and reinstalled with better screws. Speaking of the screws, they are what Mission calls a double #2 square. They are weird, so be careful taking them out. I replaced the connector ones with a 3/8" head, self taping screw.
 

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1trailer6.jpg These are from HF $13, the back one is for tools and stuff you hope to never need.

11trail6.jpg11trail7.jpg11trail8.jpgPiece of PVC pipe. It also comes with a 2" ball, easy to replace the bike's 1 7/8". It also has a 4flat plug, so you need an adapter cable.
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11trail9.jpg One more pix.

Thanks to Kevin for the inspiration to get one and some of the ideas. And to show Joe how to fix up Ann's when she gets it.
 
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That looks good. How much does it weigh? 200#

Do you have a web-site for where you bought it? http://www.missiontrailers.com/mc/MMT3_4.php They don't sell direct you have to go through a dealer. The one in Olympia, WA, Trailer Boss, was pathetic, but I got a decent deal, so other than tell Mission about them, I didn't do anything.

A pix of the HF "mudflap" to protect the fenders from rock scratches. $7

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Backup Camera Needed

Since the Mission Trailer is almost 4' from the ground to the top of it, you will find that it is difficult to see right behind you. Of course the solution is a backup camera, with a switch so you can run it all of the time. At first I was going to put a wireless camera on the trailer. While shopping I found a non-wireless one with great ratings, Bellahome at Amazon, $60.

Since I decided to put it on the bike itself no reason to go wireless. Another thing that I learned from putting a Yada 4.3" screen in my Van, I'm to blind to see it good, so the Bellahome is 7". The other problem with a bigger one is that it takes up too much real estate on the bike.

Another thing that I have learned. I have a Garmin GPS mounted on the bike and in ANY sun/daylight you can't see the screen. I built a box around it thinking that would help. It didn't. So I still was going to build a box around the Backup monitor, because what else are you going to do. What I have just discovered is that unless you are able to extend the "Box" out a couple of feet, you still have the "daylight issue". While messing with this, I realized that the problem is the screen itself. It acts like a mirror. The reason that you can't see it very good is that it is reflecting everything in front of the screen, you and the bike. So the end result is save the "box" time & energy. Turn up the brightness/contrast and you can see behind you better than without a camera. At night its better, but the headlights behind you create a different problem.

I have tried it with the trailer attached and it solves that issue, but haven't put any miles on it yet. Will edit thread if I learn something new.

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It comes with a 2" and then you change out the ball on the hitch, which is easy.

I do have both size hitch balls but I have two trailers, Aspen Sentry and now Kevin's Mission. I want the same size hitch receptacles on both trailers so I need to change at least one. I picked it up from Kevin a couple of days ago. It was a three hour ride home with it behind my car. It towed straight but due to heavy springs or whatever, it bounced all over the place. I am hoping that it will settle well when it has gear in it!
 
I do have both size hitch balls but I have two trailers, Aspen Sentry and now Kevin's Mission. I want the same size hitch receptacles on both trailers so I need to change at least one. I picked it up from Kevin a couple of days ago. It was a three hour ride home with it behind my car. It towed straight but due to heavy springs or whatever, it bounced all over the place. I am hoping that it will settle well when it has gear in it!

The bouncing is because the tires are at 80-90# which is right and its empty. Get a hitch on your rig that has both ball sizes. Changing the tongue would be a pain, I think.
 
The bouncing is because the tires are at 80-90# which is right and its empty. Get a hitch on your rig that has both ball sizes. Changing the tongue would be a pain, I think.

What i decided - after going to every trailer/car parts/hardware/harborfreight. I have decided to leave the 1 7/8 ball on my spyder. I have ordered a coupler from Amazon that has the 3 in. channel and the coupler for a 1 7/8 ball. I will change out the coupler on the Mission trailer. I will leave the Aspen alone as it already has a 1 7/8 coupler. My hitch for my car has a adapt-a-ball so it has both 2" and 1 7/8" capability. this way I can use either trailer on either vehicle without further work. I could have put a adapt-a-ball on the spyder but it was close to $40.

Doe you say that thos trailer tires on a very light trailer needs 80-90 lbs??? Why sooo much?
 
I could have put a adapt-a-ball on the spyder but it was close to $40.

Doe you say that thos trailer tires on a very light trailer needs 80-90 lbs??? Why sooo much?

I just replaced the ball on the Spyder, $10.

Here is what I learned about the trailer tire pressure. The sidewalls of trailer tires are much stiffer than car tires, si if you don't have the max pressure that is listed on the tire, they will flex too much and wear out in half the time. I too would think that you put the pressure according to the weight that you are pulling. BUT after a lot of reading, I'll put up with the bouncing, which I really don't notice.
 
Actually pitzerwm, leaving your trailer tires at max pressure all the time & running any significant distance with no weight in the trailer WILL wear out the centre of your tire tread quicker than otherwise - generally, the mobs that tell you otherwise are either ignorant of the way pneumatic tires work, or they are very keen to sell you replacement tires &/or replace broken trailer parts & suspension components etc more often than you'd need to do if you checked & maintained your tire pressures according to the load you are carrying!!

And you shouldn't only be worrying about the excessive bouncing the trailer exhibits when it's running empty with max pressure tires, there's also the significantly increased risk of loss of 'tug' control & accidents caused by the trailer setting up an uncontrollable swing in the tow vehicle & causing an accident!! A very significant percentage of car/trailer combination accidents are caused by this 'loss of control', and many of them occur with lightly loaded trailers running inappropriately high tire pressures as the root cause..... Then there's also the increased damage & wear that needlessly high trailer (or tug) tire pressures cause to road surfaces - here in Aust, (where possibly the roads aren't quite as frequently re-surfaced as they may be in the States) there are a growing number of roads that have a MAXIMUM tire pressure specified/mandated for vehicles with an even lower pressure specified for all trailers simply because of the amount of damage inappropriately high pressures cause on their 'less than perfect' road surfaces & the number of accidents that occur when trailers run tire pressures that are too high for their loading!!

So do yourself & every other road user a favour; ALWAYS actively monitor & adjust your trailer tire pressures according to the load on the trailer, & don't forget to do the same to the car/Spyder tires while you are at it!! :thumbup:
 
Thanks Peter for the info. Which is exactly opposite of what I've read from a few sources. I think that if you put a 100# or so of your crap, you would probably not have any bouncing. I have towed it just once without much in it and the bouncing was noticeable, but not such that you would lose control, the trailer only weights 200#. Your info makes more sense to me, but the other about the sidewalls etc also make sense. Since I don't actually tow it around that much, I doubt in the long run, it will make any/that much difference.
 
The thing about pneumatic tires is that the casing is MEANT to flex sufficiently to let the tread compound heat up & reach it's optimal temperature... it actually needs that flex & the consequent heat build up in order to provide traction as well as to act as another 'shock absorber' component integral to the proper functioning of the suspension, and that flexing also allows the tire tread (& casing) to flex enough to effectively 'wrap' over sharp pebbles, stones, etc on the surface of the road that could otherwise cause punctures.....

Pump your tires (trailer, bike, car, truck, it doesn't matter!!) up to their maximum pressure without the specified maximum loading on them, & you not only won't have tires reaching the appropriate temperature that allows their tread to grip the road surface in the manner designed, you already know you are gonna be wearing out the tiny little strip in the middle of the tread that is the only bit of the tire touching the ground, AND you are also compromising the suspension & it's proper function (might as well run the trailer on the steel rims?!) AS WELL as risking explosive tire failure if you hit anything hard/sharp enough to blow the tire, it doesn't need to be very sharp, just raised & a little pointed. Don't believe that last bit?! Try blowing up a balloon as hard as it'll go without bursting, then just stick your finger or a blunt pencil into it, hard - who's gonna bet that it won't burst?! Cos it will!! It's really easy to burst a balloon (or a tire) that's blown up hard, but blow the same balloon (or maybe another from the same packet, cos the first one you already burst, didn't you!?!) up to half it's maximum pressure & then stick your finger or a blunt pencil into it just as hard as you did earlier to burst the first balloon, & it's very unlikely that you'll burst it!! Simply because the balloon has a fair bit of flex that allows the outside casing to wrap around & absorb the intrusion, just like your tires can if they aren't blown up to their max pressure without the max load on them!!! ;)

As for the bouncing thing & your 'doubts' about loss of control; ANY bouncing that isn't damped by the tires (at an appropriate pressure for the load) & the suspension working together means that the trailer is already spending at least some of the time OUT of CONTROL; & remember, your tow vehicle is securely fastened to that.... however much or how little weight you have back there - PLUS all the momentum that the bouncing around brings with it..... It really doesn't take very much weight or bouncing back there to cause dangerous 'uncontrollable & unrecoverable' loss of control under some conditions, & those conditions are something that you won't necessarily know have been met until it's too late & you've lost more control than you have already just by running your tire pressures high enough to let that trailer bounce in the first place!!

Why run the risk? Why run ALL those risks?? :shocked:
 
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