HowTo: Replace the Windsheld Arm with Billet Aluminum Arm.

[noboot]

I tried positioning the arm at the bottom and going up a click each time and trying to press the DOWN button but nothing happened. When I press the UP button at each position, the arm moved UP? Really weird? Someone mentioned:
it has to do with the magnet position on the left end. I left the top clamps off and kept repositioning the coller. That did not cure it. I finally had to pop the magnet out and shaved the plastic a little and glued the magnet in once it worked properly

I may try this tomorrow

Try rotating the arm 180' (in other words turn it upside down to the way it's sitting on the shaft now) Also make sure it's positioned half way up and not right at the top or right at the bottom. We have had this same problem a number of time and when people rotate the arm it has worked.

 

[Rljcorbie]

Hello All!

So, I just got my very first Spyder one week ago. It is a 2010 RTS. Today while I was riding, the center windshield arm broke. I noticed that the last comment on this thread was from 2014. I've looked at parts diagrams and it looks like this item is still not available unless I buy the entire motor assembly. Does anyone know If this parts is available from a vendor in the US? Is Noboot still making them in AUS? (I actually will sent him a message directly, but I cannot pm until I make my first post).

Has anyone driven your Spyder RT without a windshield?

Thanks,
Rachel

 

[ThreeWheels]

Hi Rachel. Noboot is your man. The last post was actually just a few months ago, so yes, this is still a hot issue.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hello All!

So, I just got my very first Spyder one week ago. It is a 2010 RTS. Today while I was riding, the center windshield arm broke. I noticed that the last comment on this thread was from 2014. I've looked at parts diagrams and it looks like this item is still not available unless I buy the entire motor assembly. Does anyone know If this parts is available from a vendor in the US? Is Noboot still making them in AUS? (I actually will sent him a message directly, but I cannot pm until I make my first post).

Has anyone driven your Spyder RT without a windshield?

Thanks,
Rachel

Actually a few months (6-8 ? ) .... BRP finally decided to make the ARM available as a separate part ..... However it's the same CRAPPY one as earlier ..... before " noboot " made His commercially available, I bought a broken one from another member here .... first I JB welded it together ... so it was stabil , then I made a temp plate and cut out two pieces of 20ga. steel .... I wrapped the entire arm ( end to end ) with a strip of 20ga. .... I welded all three pieces together. I have my original and my 14 RT has the one I patched ....... I made a few for friends, but then " noboot " made His available .... I highly recommend buying His ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Rljcorbie]

Thanks for the info. Just curious, from start to finish, about how long did it take you to replace the arm?

Thanks!

 

[PMK]

Thanks for the info. Just curious, from start to finish, about how long did it take you to replace the arm?

Thanks!

Considering the body panels needing to be removed, plus the windscreen being removed, replace the arm and reassemble, plan for two hours.

 

[noboot]

Considering the body panels needing to be removed, plus the windscreen being removed, replace the arm and reassemble, plan for two hours.

That's about correct, and even longer to save frustration and the worry of stuffing it up. Also be very careful of any difficult screws, sometimes a bit of heat is required on the screw helps to remove it.

 

[sandylolee]

I have a 2019 rtl is this a problem for all spyders with windshields?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have a 2019 rtl is this a problem for all spyders with windshields?

If your 19 has an ARM that raises and lowers it ( and it does )...... It probably has the same one that has been used since 2010 ..... and that has been failing since about 2011 ..... the design is structurally weak... For some reason an engineer @ BRP designed it with SIX reliefs ( three on each side ) this dramatically weakened the part and causes failure due to cracking. Had they NOT created those reliefs I don't think the part would have failed, even if it is a CAST part. .... Thankfully BRP will now sell you the ARM alone .... Until recently you had to buy the ENTIRE motor assembly, just to get the ARM ..... However it's still the same Cr*py ARM , so that too will fail..... I suggest you look into what " noboot " sells to fix this issue ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:... Bad news, you have the same ARM I just looked it up @..cheapcycleparts.com ..... Annnnnnnnnnnnnnd BRP doesn't have the ARM as a separate part !!!! :gaah:

 

[sandylolee]

Thank you for the info

 

[Kernow70]

Well I have just read this thread from the start to date, and it was with some trepidation that I ventured out to check my windshield arm on my 2017 RTS I took a small led torch with a thin bendable extension protruding from the base which was perfect for getting in and around the mechanism allowing me to thoroughly examine the offending article. Phew what a relief at this moment in time it's just fine, well that was a relief to say the least, the windshield itself is also absolutely rigid no movement in any direction whatsoever. Of course I'm not deluding myself after reading this thread I know it's probably only a matter of time.:yikes:

So from now on I will be checking it on a regular basis, one thing in my favour is I have just recently changed out the very large touring windshield for the much smaller sports version, simply to improve the airflow a must I feel in the hot weather, with me being a bit of a short "arse" I could only look through the touring shield but now at least I can lower it sufficiently to see over the top and get some much needed airflow, and of course a smaller shield is going to mean less pressure on the offending arm, which may prolong it's eventual demise. ray:

 

[Allanmarc]

Hi,

After 40,000 kms the windscreen arm broke on my 2011 RT SE. Looks like I will be chasing a stronger replacement part from Noboot also.

Cheers,
Allan

 

[Fearless]

I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.

I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.

Worked well. Highly recommend.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.

I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.

Worked well. Highly recommend.

Interesting .... I did my 14 RT and didn't have that issue. But glad to hear you were successful ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[UtahPete]

bit rough around the edges but it's a first attempt at doing a video.

cheers noboot

Helpful. Thanks

 

[UtahPete]

I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket. Worked well. Highly recommend.

This is where I'm stuck. Once I get one 4mm hex head screw out of one side of a bracket, there's nothing to stop the brass barrel from turning when trying to remove the other screw from the other side. Can I just punch it through from the side with the screw removed?

 

[UtahPete]

I went ahead and punched it out.

 

[noboot]

I went ahead and punched it out.
View attachment 190794

Yep, Correct

 

[trikermutha]

Yep that thread locker hold them small screws in pretty good!

Take your time on when you remove the screws on the top of the gears and when prying the cover off. You may need a bit of heat to get the screws out or risk stripping the screws heads.

 

[UtahPete]

Yep that thread locker hold them small screws in pretty good!

Take your time on when you remove the screws on the top of the gears and when prying the cover off. You may need a bit of heat to get the screws out or risk stripping the screws heads.

Ron recommended heating them with a soldering iron, and that did the trick.