• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What if seat doesn't release to open and fuel?

I tried just disabling lock, but my gas shock is too strong and the seat will come up if you aren't sitting on it. The fishing line/wire is the trick I think, cutting the seat so that iut folds back is even better and BlueKnight's "door" is clever too.

At one point I took the shock off and kept a small length of pvc under the seat to prop the seat up.
 
My seat latch got stuck too. I took it to ProCaliber, in Vancouver, Wa. They got it opened and, together, we decided to disable the latch with a zip tie. Works great and I just have to lift the seat for gas.
Ride in comfort,
John
 
You dont have to disable the latch, Just unscrew the post from under the seat and put it in your super dooper tool kit.
 
removing the post

You dont have to disable the latch, Just unscrew the post from under the seat and put it in your super dooper tool kit.
After you do this and discover lots of scratches etc. on the back of the gas tank you will wish you didn't remove that post .... the seat WILL move forward / backward when you are riding it .... that POST prevents that movement ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
When I bought my Spyder a Comfort Seat was part of the deal. When I got it home I noticed that there was quite a bit of slop between the seat bottoming out when being sat on and the point where the lug actually catches in the latch when you put the seat down and actually hear the latch catch. It was intuitively obvious from the set up and jam nuts on the seat lug that there was easily room to take out some of the slack, but not adjust the jam nuts so tight that the lug fit too tightly into the latch thereby putting unnecessary strain on the seat cable. I even allowed some extra space so the lug easily catches in the latch with my seat rain cover on. If you push down on the front of the seat when it's latched and there is NO play between the lug and latch you MIGHT be asking for trouble in the future. It isn't rocket science.
 
After you do this and discover lots of scratches etc. on the back of the gas tank you will wish you didn't remove that post .... the seat WILL move forward / backward when you are riding it .... that POST prevents that movement ..... Mike :thumbup:

At one point I had removed the bolt and it was a pain to get it back on adjusted right. Mike
 
Well after the problem I had this weekend getting a key stuck in my ignition so I could not open the seat or the frunk I put a screw in to keep the seat lock open and cut 2 pc of PVC that slip into a coupler (16" total--only 9" will fit under the seat) that stays under the seat to keep seat up when fueling or ???. I would like to find something else metal or wood that would hinge in the middle so it would fold in half to store and when straightened a piece of pipe would slip over the hinge to keep it straight. I left the bolt in place to go into the locking hole. Thanks, Mike
 

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Well after the problem I had this weekend getting a key stuck in my ignition so I could not open the seat or the frunk I put a screw in to keep the seat lock open and cut 2 pc of PVC that slip into a coupler (16" total--only 9" will fit under the seat) that stays under the seat to keep seat up when fueling or ???. I would like to find something else metal or wood that would hinge in the middle so it would fold in half to store and when straightened a piece of pipe would slip over the hinge to keep it straight. I left the bolt in place to go into the locking hole. Thanks, Mike
Why make a strut? What's wrong with the factory one?
 
Why make a strut? What's wrong with the factory one?

If you keep the locking mechanism open like I did with the screw the seat will always be in the up position since the lock no longer locked the seat down. Actually my bike did not have a strut. The previous owner removed it so I bought a replacement I found here on the forum and it worked fine but it does not open the seat up as far as it can go. Since I was locked out this weekend I decided to make sure that never happens again so I disabled the lock. Thanks, Mike
 
WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT

Well after the problem I had this weekend getting a key stuck in my ignition so I could not open the seat or the frunk I put a screw in to keep the seat lock open and cut 2 pc of PVC that slip into a coupler (16" total--only 9" will fit under the seat) that stays under the seat to keep seat up when fueling or ???. I would like to find something else metal or wood that would hinge in the middle so it would fold in half to store and when straightened a piece of pipe would slip over the hinge to keep it straight. I left the bolt in place to go into the locking hole. Thanks, Mike
Send me your phone number and I'll send you a pic of mine ...... It raises my RT seat more than double what the OEM height is, it attaches to the frame -like the oem strut, and fits in-line with the frame just like OEM ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
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