A week or so ago I had it parked on an incline and got the flashing brake light of the dash, and found the fluid low, which led me to doing brake pads a few days ago, and had it up on blocks without the parking brake on and let it roll off the blocks when I was done. I rode it around the park, and everything seems fine. So I wanted to go for a ride today to do 4 40mph hard brake applications to seat in the new pads and I had a flashing brake light and codes p0571 and P1571. Shut it off and restarted and no flashing brake light. Something in the back of my mind recalls low brake fluid levels can cause the same flashing brake light. Am I wrong? This is the one I want to ride from Arizona to Washington in June, and I do not need issues out on the highway in the middle of nowhere.
So, you had a low fluid level and did a brake job. Then
AFTER the brake job, you got those two codes and are wondering if they can be caused by low fluid level. Well, most folks top off the fluid as part of a brake job. Consider doing that.
However, those two codes have nothing to do with fluid level. Coming straight out of the 2018 RT code list in BUDS2 - those two codes are telling you that there is a disparity between what the computer thinks is the actual Parking Brake condition, and the position indicated by the Parking Brake Light Switch. Officially called the HBS switch. One code is for engaged, the other code is for the disengaged positions. No, that's not the button on the left grip, that's coming from the little micro-switch on the front parking brake pulley.
So, pull off the right side panels. You'll see the front pulley for the parking brake cable. There's a micro-switch mounted there that is operated by a tab on the pulley. When the parking brake is disengaged, the pulley rotates CCW until the tab actuates the switch. It pushes on the little arm which pushes in on the nub coming out of the switch. When the parking brake is engaged, the pulley rotates CW, releasing the arm from the switch. The parking brake motor keeps turning until the cable gets tight from applying the brake, and then is turned off.
So, inspect, clean and lube the little arm and switch nub. Check for arm damage. Sometimes they get bent. Make sure the switch operates easily with a nice, distinct click. Inspect the harness and connector from the switch to the main harness. Also, because you had all that stuff apart for the brake job, check for excessive slack in the parking brake cable when the brake is disengaged. There should be no bowing of the cable as it exits the sheath. If there is, adjust out the slack with the adjusters on the rear caliper. Works like any other motorcycle cable adjuster.
Infrequently, that micro-switch does fail. Easy replacement.
By the way, Spyder fault codes look like OBD-II codes, but are typically re-assigned to other functions for Spyder specific needs. Simply looking up codes on Google is frequently misleading.
hyea:
