Who has the factory adjustment data for a 2025 Spyder RT belt adjustment in mm?

[adrie]

Hello, fellow Spyder enthusiasts.

I have a question for you regarding the belt adjustment specifications for a Spyder RT 2025.

I have a workshop manual for my old Spyder RT 2018, and it states the following regarding the drive belt specifications.

the gap between the belt and the sprocket internal flange should be sum of x + y =3.25 mm +/- 2.75mm



I have ordered a new workshop manual for the Spyder RT 2024/2025, but it will take 2 to 3 weeks to be delivered.

However, I would like to know if the adjustment measurements are exactly the same for a 2025 model.

Does anyone have a workshop manual for a Spyder RT 2024/2025?

And would they be willing to check for me whether the adjustment measurements from the belt to the flange are correct?

It would be really great if someone could send me a photo of that information.

Why do I need this?

My 2025 Spyder RT makes a screeching noise when you drive at a constant speed between 74 and 80 km/h.

I'm not a speed demon, and I'm not going to drive in a lower gear so that you're driving at that speed with an RPM of 6000.

So can anyone help me with the adjustment data for the drive belt on the rear wheel?

Thanks so much, everyone, and lots of love from the Netherlands

 

[Mikey]

Most of us just use a credit card.

 

[baxter]

At that speed range on my 2024 F3L I have a high gear whine. On my previous models it was in the 47-51 mph range. This has been an issue for years as mentioned in this forum.

 

[adrie]

Dear Baxter,
Have you ever encountered this problem?

 

[BajaRon]

The belt gap remains the same. A credit card is a good gauge. It doesn't need to be exact. Where is your belt running on the rear pulley?

 

[adrie]

The drive belt runs on the pulley of the rear wheel completely against the inside of the flange .
On the pulley at the front of the engine, the drive belt is also almost against the right flange.
You can almost squeeze a credit card in there.
I jacked up the Can-Am from the rear and put my wife on the seat (52 kg).
While I was lying under the Spyder, she put it in first gear and gave it some gas.
Then you can see that as she gives it more gas, the belt on the pulley near the engine moves a little closer to the inside of the flange.
I think that at higher speeds, this might cause some noise.

 

[BajaRon]

You might want to try adjusting the belt location to get that credit card gap at the rear. But you should also check your belt tension because belt adjustment will affect tension as well.

 

[baxter]

Screeching noise… Same as a high pitched whine???

 

[jzeiler]

This is from the 2024 manual.

 

[adrie]

Screeching noise… Same as a high pitched whine???

But have you ever encountered the issue of noise with your Spyder?

Dear @jzeiler.
Thank you so much for the printout from the manual.
This will be very useful, and I can confront my dealer.
Thank you very much.

Kind regards, Adrie

 

[weeneil]

Having just changed the rear tyre on my 2023 RTL, this information is critical to my brain well being. Thank you all for the info you provide, nothing like this is available where I am.

 

[baxter]

Adrie have you found the root cause of your noise?

 

[adrie]

Adrie have you found the root cause of your noise?

Dear Baxter.

No, I haven't found the problem yet.

I'm working with the dealer to get them to fix it.

They want to do a software update in the Spring of next year to align the gears.

They did replace the break-in oil with regular oil, and that helped a little with shifting.

But the noise I hear at higher speeds in 6th gear hasn't changed at all.

I'm not going to work on my Spyder myself because it's still under warranty and otherwise I run the risk of them revoking the warranty and everything.

The worst thing here in the Netherlands is that there are only two dealers and they have so many customers that they are also a bit arrogant.

When you buy a brand new Spyder RT here for €43,500, they act like you're buying a loaf of bread.

Well, I can assure you that I had to save very hard for this money. Now my white Spyder S2S is stored in my garage for the winter.

But my question to you, Baxter.

Was your problem ever resolved?

When I read the forums, it seemed like you had a similar problem.

Has this been resolved, or are you still experiencing issues?

I'm curious to know.

Kind regards from Adrie in cold Holland

 

[baxter]

My first Spyder was a 2020 RTL. I had a whine noise in the 47-51 mph range but with the panels, the noise was tolerable. I traded for a 2022 F3L Limited and had same type of noise but with a more exposed engine area with the F3 design, the noise was now more audible. I now have a 2024 F3L Limited and same noise is now around the 47-50 mph range. If you search this site you will find this noise has been around for many years and models. BRP came out and Front pulleys were changed for this but not the big fix. I suspect the cut of the gears but am not an engineer.

 

[Gwolf]

The belt is going to walk in and out depending on what you do just before parking it and whether it is turning forward or reverse. Also position of the rear suspension will affect the gap. There is no way to adjust it perfectly and you can forget about expecting it to be exactly where you left it next time you stop and look at the gap. If you backed it into the shop before checking the adjustment, you will have a different gap than if you rode it into the shop forward. If you adjust it without any weight on the suspension and then load it with rain gear, tools, sleeping bags, and other stuff, along with your own weight in the seat, the gap will change. The adjustment will change if you don't pull straight in to the shop. Having to push it or ride it in a turn affects the adjustment. Trying to get it perfect is useless, because anything you do after adjusting it perfect will change the perfect adjustment. The measure from the flange is just some engineer or manual writer's idea of what is required. Just get it close so it doesn't walk too far from the flange or fray the edge rubbing on the flange is about all that you can do. Conditions change as you ride, backing out of the shop, turning around and going down the driveway, then the belt heats up after a few miles of normal riding. It will never stay exactly where you put it, and if you worry about that too much you will be thinking about the belt gap when you should be watching for road hazards talking on their cell phones. Just try to pull straight in and adjust it as close as you can, then let it alone. If you want it perfect to go for a ride, you would have to adjust it every time you got on it. Ten minutes into the ride all your adjustment will be changed. Just get it close and ride it.

 

[Mikey]

I went from a 2012 RTL to a 2025 S2S and just those two bikes make different sounds that I have had to get use to! The belt issue you think you have is simple to check, just don't over think it and fret about it! Get on the bike and ride it down the road and warm it up, come to a straight stretch in the road and come to a stop, get off the bike and take a look at where the belt is riding, do it a couple of times, if you can see a gap between the flange and belt around the settings that you have already been given then you're good to go! That whining sound you hear could be the air that the front pulley is pushing. The best advice I can give you is if you have a friend who has a bike like yours, have them take you for a ride, or you take it, and see if they have the same sounds, maybe even see if the dealership will let you take another bike for a ride to ease your mind!?! How/why do you think you've got a problem if you don't have a base line to go from? You have to trust someone sooner or later, and like you said, it's under warranty and if the dealer thinks it's normal, they know what they're doing!! Good luck.